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Copemech, isn`t Lake Mackenzie this weekend? And you could be right weak spark at low rpm`s.
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The exhaust would be some type of blockage so switch pipes. Have you had the top end off? Could just be the rings stuck in the grooves from oil build up.
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Just remember no two bikes are alike, even when brand new. With this post you ruled out the carb? Remember the engine is just an air pump. Compression, Exhaust, or air leaks.
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Try new pads before anything else. They probably have some fork oil or other soaked in the pad. The front should work reasonably well. The rear brake was never very good, but would lock up the wheel.
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Several riders in our club use them. Saves broken levers and protects the hands. Makes the bars quite wide in tight sections. Always hated the thought of my wrists stuck during an endo.
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Bagger, are you scoring,riding or just bringing the beer for the mexicans. I hear It`s gonna be warm and TEAM NM will be a tad thirsty.
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Try a better ground on your kill switch. like the yamaha style two wire kill switch and ground to the same location as the other grounds.
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We run an 11-48 which is overkill. At 6000 ft elavation it will pull my 200lbs up most hills. At sea level just the 11 might work or 11-44. This is our second ty and last sunday tried just the 11t and on steep hills it still needed lower gearing.
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Maybe try the vent on the fuel cap?!?
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The only reason anyone had a spark arrestor was it was mandontory to please the usfs. It is possible for a 2 stroke to start a fire, but not from the exhaust. The parking of your transport vehicle in tall grass has a higher risk of fire than a bike!
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Alright here is a shot in the dark. You are now missing the disk guard, which was held on by the two caliper mounting bolts. What could be happening is the top bolt is tight ,but now the length of the shoulder is too long. So when pressure is applied to the m/c the leak appears. Solution is the correct length bolt or just add a few washers to see if it works.
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Try WWW.trialspartsusa.com this is Jim Snells website. He had made a DVD available to gasgas owners in the usa. The video covers a complete rebuild of the pro motor which is a must have for anyone attempting to properly adjust the
shift cam of the pro. Good luck! P.S. yes you do have to remove the clutch.
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The picture you are looking at is to limit the travel. the tang above the needle is the one to limit the flow/and or level.
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Should start 1st or 2nd kick. try a good carb clean. Adjustments should be close to all sections. I`ll try to lacate one of my manuals. Good luck!
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We usually run 650cc on this side or the pond!
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natctrials.org I believe clubs get half of the entry, but none up front. No I`m not one of them just set a few.
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Fantic is the only trials that used a power valve. That is what the cable did is raise the exhaust ports with rpm increase.
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If the rear shock has a remote nitrogen/oil bottle then it`s an 86. If not it will be a 1985.
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Just a reminder this is trials, if your riding a 200 and everyone is passing you that is quite expected. If you want to go fast get a 270 and gear it otherwise just worry about your score and have fun. This sport is actually you against yourself. I`m a diehard Beta rider And fast ,but that does not lower my score.
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The other bolt holds the kickstart shaft and return spring in place. So the bolt that is inline with the kickstart shaft is not the oil drain.
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You did not tell the year of your bike. The early Pro`s had clutch drag problems due to swelling of fiber plates. Check with your dealer to order the updated parts will be your best solution.
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New dust seal comes with the kit! It is as simple as it seems, just need snap ring pliers.
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The clutch cover gasket tends to get pushed out. usually around the kickstarter. New gasket required. Beta trait that for some reason was never fixed.
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