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It has been too long to remember, but you will have to loosen and maybe remove a few. The sequence was like every 4th one. Good luck with the stuck nipples.
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If you have had any brake fluid at all on the pads they will have to be replaced with a fresh set. Keep trying on the bleeding as it usually is not an easy job to get all the air out. You might also need a master cylinder rebuild kit as that could be the whole problem.
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Start by pulling of the flywheel cover and drying everything out. XCheck all connections. 99.99% it is not the coil. It could be the wire or cap or stator, but not the coil. I worked at a yamaha dealer for years and can not remember a coil going bad. Lots of CDI`s and stators, but the only coils we sold was to backyard mechanics.
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I was employed at a yamaha dealership in `86 and I can not ever remember wanting to ride a 250 off the lot. They were under powered and over geared. So the bike is probably running great for what it is. Hope that was gentle enough!
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I always used NGK. stock should have been bp7es, but we always ran bp5es at altidude. You might remove the flywheel cover.(right hand side) And check too see if the flywheel has any play. The main bearings where always a culprit of timing issues.
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Only two years of the 350, 1985 and 1986. The `86 had a reomote resovoir for the rear shock. `86 had alot of other improvements also, mainly the frame. Oil quantity is stamped on the case by the kickstart. I believe it was 650 cc. 10w30 would work, but seems I always ran Bel Ray LW gear oil. Great bike, I used a yz125 wheel and master cylinder for a disc upgrade of the same year. Enjoy.
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You would think that is either in the pilot circuit and/or timing. And I`m sure you have checked both. I can see the concern since I always thought the Bul kickstater was an awkward feel. Any good running bike should always be one or two kicks. Good luck.
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Just finished a long hot 2 day event. Still had to score a section in the afternoon. Removed my sweaty gear to something comfortable to score in. Just opened a cool beer and with out takin` a sip set it on the ground to start my `92 Beta. Damed if the kicker slipped. (started it with the right leg) Put the whole thing in my right calf. Three layers of stitches, a drain and I finally quit bloodyin` the bed sheets a month later.
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Might need to change the shaft also as they tend to get a groove quickly.
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Forks will also act this way when over filled. The problem lies in adding the recommended capacity, but not taking the correct measurement of level afterward. Or another way to look at it was not completely dry when the new fluid was added. Try calling RYP for a correct measure ment with the forks collapsed.
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It was the worst year for a gasser, anything 2004 and newer are more desirable. When running they ride great. All problems they had could be corrected, but at a price. Better be capable of a complete rebuild. ( splitting the cases) They had shift fork/shift drum problems. Clutch side case, clutch plate swelling, Kick start, kick axle/spring/idler gear. Just to name the basics.
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The bikes weight savings thru the years have come with a price. Compare the current trials bike to any other motorcycle out there. Trials bikes are now border line under engineered to the point of a major break at at any severe ride, and need a lot of attention. Go back to any vintage bike, and the bike was ment to take quite a beating. But then thats why they rode like tanks and the modern bikes are too much fun!!
By the way the `06 Beta is a great bike!
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If you decide on a tube the dunlop 803 works well. Stay away from the IRC because they spin slightly. It is the 'easy' fix.
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Remember the simple things like the fuel tank not venting properly, and or the floats sticking. Both common problems on old iron.
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Bikes as new came with three restrictor plates. The pipe,middle silencer and air box. Just remove.
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A 9 or 10 tooth counter shaft sprocket is the quick fix.
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Hitting your knee vs ripping your knee is quite different. See a Doc. (usually something like that is preferable than an acl etc.) Good luck and keep riding! A quality knee brace is usually for the ripped and torn.
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There is a piece of the inner case that could break off that holds the spring.
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Usually center case halves are sold in sets so it will be an expensive fix even with the standard cases. The kick start gear coming apart is a common problem.
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Wow, just interesting to listen to complaints from a few owners that think the grass is greener across the road. Must be a moisture related problems as almost all complaints are from the UK. All bikes have thier own problems , but as stated before the numbers in the scottish speak for themselves. I`ve only ridden Beta`s since `89 and never had an electrical fault. Leaky carb yes, but also never had to split the cases either! I`d look into the advice of notched stator covers and or vented breathers as used in `vintage` bikes.
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Remove skid plate. The oil drain is on the right side of the engine. It should be an allan type.( Never remove the bolt on the left side of the bike as that is the detent and or kickstart spring unless you are removing k/s and shift shaft.) The fill is on top of the engine beside the carb and is quite ackward to get to. The manual calls for 1000cc, the small screw on the clutch cover is the level check.
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standard nut , left to loosen.
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`93 should have gone to a case induction and the previous years were not.
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his plates have swelled so the tolerance on the fingers are out of spec. try a search on this forum for pro clutch problems , your owners manul or a friendly wrench. An upgrade to the newer clutch pak would be the best solution if he is planning to keep the bike awhile.
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New Mexico usually is the shortest drive to any events. try nmtrials.org
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