copemech

That IS a kicker in that pic!

Sherco 250 bit more perky, Scorpa 250 docile and reliable , little 200 Gasser is a 175cc motor that is a bit more revvy, but will get one round nicely and a good learner.

Na, yours is just bashed!

I would tend to argue that pointe a bit, as many on here have learned that an 80:1 ratio of high quality full synthetic oil(from major suppliers) is quit sufficient for normal operation of the bikes, possibly excluding road trials and extreme running. Many punters use as little as 100:1 ratio without issue! So be friendly to your bike and the environment and use less! You do not want or need excess oil gunking up your pipes! Or spraying midges! Do the math! 5L = 5000/80= 62.5ml of costly oil used. This is not myth! We have used it for over a decade now!

Might carefully mark the positions, then give a couple careful wraps of the bar using the teflon pipe sealer tape. It adds just a bit of thickness and you can adjust the rotational friction to suit, as such they will still rotate in a crash, yet can be repositioned by hand with little effort.

If you added a tooth on things(not sure why) you may require a "half link kit" to get things right. Availability depends upon whot chain you are running.

He is REEM!

I am thinking $2000 range if in decent shape. Might ask if he did a piston and rings or just main bearings and seals on O/H. Rear suspension linkage well lubed and not too much play, smooth steering head bearings, decent chain and sprockets. Muffler and header pipe not totally crushed, good wheels and tires , and you are in! Bikes in that year range vary a lot and maintenance is important. The little odds and ends can be dealt with as long as the big parts are ok. But at that price range, you take your chances. A some point you gotta take a bit of risk. New ones a bit over 7K! Pick your poison!

Obviously a lot has to do with the bike and system, but overall, a slowing of the base timing will yield less kickback and prone to stalling, a smoother take off and associated reduction in top end performance. Forget trying to measure mm BTDC, it normally takes about 1mm rotation in advance rotation on the stator plate to make a change from stock, and about 2 mm on the retard side to make a difference. Any change here is setby feel of pants to pref, yet as a rule I would limit any advance to a mm or two, and decline to 5-6 mm, as anything out of this range gets too far out and other problems can occur. Obviously this is a very generalized statement, but the basics apply!

Fan coming on and drawing the available power down?

Bike looks good, but IMHO, the color white has little place on a trials bike!

I came to Amerika to get a education just so I could do this! You are all infidels, so I must crash this site in the name of Ala and our honor! To be honest, I kinda hope they manage to kill off a few million of themselves in political turmoil so they can get a grip! Hacking TC must be the apogee of this feckers life, he can now go blow himself up and join the rest!

I can see it now! Another good screwing!

Whe do they sell a closed course bike with road lights and six gears? So one can putt to the next section! It is a fine line! Seems I recall even Grimbo being guilty of bringing the Mont in smoking and choking at SSDT! He must have near melted it! That is an extreme example, yet, the bikes are just becoming soo specilized they do not care about durability in extreme conditions. It is all a trade off!

Actually, I don't think the get them rims much better than that from new. You will need to get tire seated properly, and seem I have mostly allways needed a bit of tweak on the snailcams. Not a high speed bike, so non issue!

You cannot, other than measuring what comes out! If you know what you put in, this is a non issue!

Notice he did not state what he was doing when the thing melted off! Not sure I am totally on with plastic endcaps, yet one must recall the fact that you pitched out for the latest and lightest piece of kit within a very high performance arena to begin with! You desire to be in that fold, it sometimes has its costs! Go buy a friggin Montesa, you pay up front! And you pay later in lugging it around, but it is reliable. Add you do not have to worry about plastic endcaps. Chewy has indeed had a couple odd issues, seems bike well sorted and runs like a high performance pussycat! I would find myself hard pressed to be rid ofit, and start over. Yet, if not to taste, then move on to the next, may I suggest an OSSA! Very cutting edge! Just break the Sherco into about 5 small boxes and put in the postal system. Worn out POS must be worth a couple quid!

Can you send pics of the french girls on the beach?

You should be able to tap the bowl a bit to dislodge it. You may want to get one of the newer "alcohol resistant" float valves. I think most these parts interchange with the later PHBL, the float valve should have a number onit I think, #250 is common on many of the newer carbs. RYP may have this stuff, or you can ck other local dealers as pretty common parts I think.

Bump, where is Dan? Need US jetting for the Mikuni!

Those jet sizes seem odd to me, too small and too large, but we will have to wait untill someone with more Beta/Mikuni experience chimes in. On the stators, well, for the most part, they quit running!

Get two o-ring seals, and replace the other as well cause they leak.