copemech

HeHe! That is a good question! In my personal experience, I have had them stick after a good long walk of a section on a cold day! That was the shortest! For the longest? Well it was the day I picked up your '03 bike from you after sitting a couple weeks or more. Probably took 3 or more minutes of it before it broke loose while shifting gears and bouncing on it if front of your mothers house! That bike was just a racey bitch! Yet performed well! I've had them stick after a lunch break as well! Bottom line, seems twofold, yet no total resolve, possibly short of grinding grooves in the plates(as you might suggest) the fresher the oil seems the better it works and the thinner oils (atf)seems less prone! Add, even on the ATF, I am not running cheap ****, but the Mercedes spec stuff synthetic. As I have little problem running the thinner oil, I doubt I will do otherwise as I basically find it a non issue while using the simple procedure upon startup. The other thought that comes to mind is the fact that just because you run the bike and have a bit if hot water circulating does not neccessarily mean you have much if any warmth into the gearbor or gear oil! On a cold day this stuff may be relatively un warmed! Take all that and go figure your odds, while pointing at a tree! It will stop you!

Should be fine best can tell!

Looks like a black chick with a target painted on her ass! Bit heavy, but fun!

Ummmm, I have never seen one break, yet I can can not think of a reason the things could not be welded by a properly trained TIG welder using the the proper high strength filler rod. Best I can tell there is nothing special about the arm itself. I rould recommend seeking a cretified aircraft welder if possible, or another specialty master welder.

I gottsay I am so glad to see you all communicating!

Good one! Merry Christmas to you, Kiwi!

The spark never seems strong, it just needs to be there! Of course , with no joy here you get into another realm of possibilities that I think you had already read upon. Seems there is some logic to this madness, yet it can be a process.

62,5ml will work well on 5l at a ratio of 80:1 of good full synthetic and well proven. 5000/80=62.5 You do not want excess oil building in the muff! And unless you plan on roadracing the thing, not neccessary! Not to mention, Addict cannot recall that far back!

I think I do recall Adrian at Lewisport telling me he had someone who could do them. Personally, I would not spend much on it, and if nothing else would be willing to try the Works Performance shock that they list for about $400, although cannot tell how well they work. Adrian can tell the current price on a TRP shock or Ohlins, yet not cheap. You might see if you can find a good used one in the classifieds here! Sign on, and put in an inquiry!

That is funny stuff! In a way it reminds me of Red Skelton's slapstick! Red could usually allways keep a straight face! Untill! It does seem ironic in a way, as it does seem that everyone we grew up with are dead now. Oh well, my best to all, and wish you all a Merry Christmas. It is after all, a time to remember. Here is a bit to honor Red, they mentioned 70 years!

If the little lever is UP, the choke is ON! If the plus was wet, it may well be fouled. Get a new NGK BP5ES aand set to 0.5mm. One would not want to run with the choke on for long, just get it started with it and kick it off after a few seconds while then keeping a few revs in the motor using the throttle. They may well bog an complain a bit till you get some heat into the motor, yet do not rev the motor excessively during this warm up period as it is not good for the pistons, yet at the same time, you would want it off the choke as soon as possible to prevent plug fouling. Hope that makes sense! Also REMEMBER routine of placing bike into 4th gear, pull clutch in and rock back and forth with butt on seat untill clutch positively disengages and bike will roll. Otherwise you may be in for a BIG surprise when you put it into first gear, as the clutch plates will stick together after sitting, NEVER trust them, and be sure you are pointed towards a clear area! Cheers, MC

Ne sense of adventure, Puscifer! The damn things are fun to ride.

Who (TF) is Tommy Cooper?

And if you really keep score on this, you are sick, very sick! You could tell me that joke every day!

Mmmm, well Bradfords seem to have a good reputation, and if he has double ck'ed it, makes me wonder. You can call Steve there and ask, yet I have never heard on one loosing its magnatism. However I suppose it is possible the magnet could be damaged? Seems they do odd things with the magnets and their polarities, and if one is damaged could do odd things. I am not quite sure if Steve at Bradfords can test this, so I would call. Apparently, he has further insight into just how these things really work, that we here have not figured out! It is something of a dark science. Then getting off into another realm, what fuel are you using? I would suppose you have done other basics like plugs and such, what are you running and at what gap.

Apples and Oranges here! If you want better performance and light weight, go for the Sherco!

Might be worth blasting an e-mail to www.usbeta.com to see if Ron Jr knows for sure, or Ron Sr! He has lots of experience with these!

Honestly I have not seen the Barum brand on any tire here since probably the 70's! I had a set of Mitas sent as a donation to get rid of them, seemed hard as a rock, I did not ride them, though. For an econo tire stick with the VeeRubbers, as they are not bad. Purely in the mud I had no problem with them, just don't seem to like slippry rocks for some odd reason. The do look good though!

Who rewound the stator?

Obviously you have no respect for 4T power! Personally, I both love it and hate it at the same time in some ways. Yet at the same time, some like Caby and Bou just seem to make the little tractors sing at a whim! Pretty awesome really, as a few years back, no one would have thunk it! Yet, I say this as I have 4t experience over the decades, and I can hop on one of any brand and adjust. Not a problem. For someone that has never ridden 4t, they might have a problem!

Good thing he kept his ride!

Actually it is the interferance taper on the shaft that does all the work. The key just simply positions it! I hope you got the nut up to the proper torque of 72 ft/lb with your methods used. As it is somewhat critical. Oh well, we won another battle here!

Why do you need a new bike for the same old ass? That is the question!

Mmmmmm, well, let that be a good example to some the others here just how these things go! Seems even the rebuilders may have problems with them! Wonder just how they test them? No wonder we do have issues! The symptoms seem to vary, as well as the solutions!

OK muppet, I will toss in a 3'rd party objective opinion into the mix if you cannot make up your mind. I will tell you what I think, which may well differ from some. Gassers in that range seem fine, if you can still accustom yourself to their personal quirks, namely the kick lever and shifter throw and the rattling motors. I cannot. But a nice 250 works well for a clubman that can adjust, it seems. The Revs work well and are solid, most all issues can be sorted, seems still occasional stator, pump casing problems, but solid and reliable steed, and a 250 is perfectly gentile for a clubman, with the 270 being good but strong! Works well with the wheels on the ground! And in the mud, as weight not an issue! The Evo's seem hot ****e, I like the bike as it seems much closer to my Sherco in overall feel, with the exception of the steering lock range, which just seemed excessive to me. As I seem to find some virtue in the stops, it seems scarey at first! They may indeed turn tighter than a Scorpa(the fav)! The Evo 290 has too much for me, as it is a brute torque machine, although still smooth through the range and very rideable by a well versed person.. No idea about the new thin tube gassers? Ta, You really need to pick your own poison,