Tr1AL

Nothing will happen, i have run water cooled trials motors during the 1990.s at 100:1 and nothing happened and at 80:1 and nothing happened if you want to waste oil and your money then of course that is your prerogative.

Seriously that is way too much oil in the mix and is recommended in the manual purely because they have to warranty the bike for a short while and their oil manufacturing partner of that moment in time IPONE or which ever brand they do a deal with wants you to use as much oil as possible to make money , it is just wasting oil and your own money.

If you are going to use a TRIAL specific oil like ROCK OIL Strawberry or PUTOLINE Strawberry ETC then you can choose to put 65:1 , 70:1 , 80:1 , 100:1 take your pick any one of those ratios will work it depends how much you know about oil really . VERTIGO trials bikes run at near 200:1 so you are in a very grey area. If it were my bike I would go for 80;1 but you will probably find that you just opened a 'Can of worms'. The theory is the less oil you use the cleaner your EXHAUST SYSTEM will be for a longer period and as 2 strokes power output is affected by the design of the system IE the length and diameter of the header/front pipe and the volume and shape of the mid box and silencer and how the exhaust is packed with wire wool in the mid box and fibre glass string ETC in the silencer box then if it gets clogged with excessive amounts of un burnt oil that turns into caked carbon deposits then it will alter the way that the motor delivers the power. You would not want to run your particular bike at 200;1 but 100:1 would not hurt it with modern oils, 80:1 is the being safer ratio.

@Tootsie If you are planning on keeping your bike for a long time you could have a fabricator make you an aluminium tank using an old second hand one from an early pro as the base then cut the top off your ruined plastic tank to use as a cover over the aluminium tank for aesthetic purpose.

https://youtu.be/JS7H6Gts9ik?feature=shared

@bikerpetObviously I do not know exactly what you are doing but going by what you say it sounds like you are trying to cram too much packing in there , the silencer neads to absorb the sound wave so the packing should be fairly loosely packed not solid or the gases will just pas through as if it is a piece of solid tubing , perhaps thats why it sounds louder than before.

sjtrials.com latest news for very brief video of this KTM version. go to bottom of home page at useful links for the latest news

Here is a starter https://youtu.be/c7HJZHFH3gA?feature=shared

I would say that If you want to learn modern four stroke technique then watch and study Toni Bou Videos and listen to the sound of the motor and watch how he negotiates differing obstacles and terrain then go out and replicate it.. Toby Martyn is another to watch in FIM WTC or British Trials Champs. 2 stroke motor technique is similar but different.

@Branny Beta OEM is usually a Mikuni carburettor. you cannot go wrong with blanking that hole on the VHST carb you have fitted to your Beta as it is only for use with bikes that have the exhaust mid box on the right hand side of the bike for example a GasGas.. just plug it with something .

I do not think that what average running temperature the transmission oil in a Trials motors gearbox is matters in relation to the viscosity of the oil tested at 100 C is . lemur is I think suggesting that this viscosity test is not therefore a good metric because the gearbox oil does not get to 100 C , but when the clutch has been slipped and thrashed for example starting off from a standstill heading up a hill in very muddy conditions the oil will likely be around the 100 C for a while between the plates so has some relevance , the viscosity of the brands mentioned @ 40C follow the same pattern of viscosity so will give a theoretical idea of what brand with a 75W rating could give you less drag in your bikes clutch when it is set up exactly as it should be to operate as it was designed to.

You could check your stanchion is not bent before ordering the bushes , It is unlikely but there are a quite a few possible reasons these things happen.

If the seals still leak after you change the seal it is usually the bushes that need changing, to make sure this is not the case then do the seal clean tool and if that does not stop it try putting another new seal in it . If you do not fancy changing the bushes., Perhaps your fork seal lip spring has broken during fitting or it got ripped when you put the Stanchion in Also it may have pin hole in it near the lip etc.

Hello again @DavidSweden you will need a blind hole bearing puller or home made expanding type tool to grip the inner surface of the bush bearing then apply heat to casing around the part to help extract it

Make or buy a tool a tool like a ' Motion Pro Fork seal mate' cleaning tool and slide it down the gap between the seal and the chromed or NON STICK surface treated STANCHION of the leaking seal and slide it round the entire inner part of the seal and see if that stops it leaking , if it still leaks then you need to take it all apart again and this time fit new top and bottom bushes and also fit a new seal just to eliminate the possibility of the other seal that you already fitted having a problem , trust me on this I have spent my life working on bikes .cars, trucks and it could just stop you from having to strip it down a third time and so it will be worth every penny of extra expense

I think its important to to take into account what the OP is going to use this bike for and that his age is almost 60, the use is the easy route in UK club trials. I live in the UK and can say that if he is a fairly competent rider then he could have some good rides using a well prepped TWINSHOCK FANTIC or 200 TY YAMAHA a current 200cc mono shock is well on top of the job and if it cannot be coaxed into winning the class of white route in the UK every time out then that is the riders fault not the bikes The white EASY route that the OP is going to ride is not as difficult as this example of UK sections Terrain. https://youtu.be/Ev9FqM0g5hQ?feature=shared

Thank you for your response Konrad , hopefully I have redeemed myself after my public disgrace as regards my previous 'little slip up' .

Hello Konrad , i think there may be a misunderstanding about the position of the O rings. I am talking about the O rings that go on the head bolts not the internal ones that seal the head to the cylinder and cannot be affected by UV light. the ones that i am speaking of are the 8mm I D that are used to seal the head bolts to the head and when in place can have the edges exposed to sunlight in their position. This UV reference based on Technical specifications given by a seal manufacturer regarding their products. Too much detail I suppose but that is the human mind at work , probably my undetected autism is in full swing , who knows. Have a good evening. Alan.

As the saying goes 'You learn something new everyday' , I have to say though In my Ignorance I have been using Copa slip with steel to Aluminium For decades without consequence. and I have certain bikes that I have had for decades. Not a very good excuse of course for not using the correct type of product but it is a fact none the less. I need to stop digging. I never thought I would be judged by Mark Twain in my lifetime so that is something new also. Have a good day.

8mm head bolts with O rings to seal head = 18ft/lbs = 24Nm you need to lubricate the O rings with Silicone grease and lubricate the threads of the bolts to get a proper torque reading , Copper Slip Anti Seize is best to stop future corrosion and so for ease of future removal. 6mm head bolts with 1.5mm thick copper washers to seal head = 9 ft/lbs = 12.2 Nm. Lubricate threads with copper anti seize as above. Anyone looking for O rings you need FKM/VITON ones Nitrile is not as resistant to UV light. These settings are for a Standard GasGas Head. I have had S3 heads on Gas Gas PRO motors an I used standard head Torque settings and had Zero problems If that is bothering you.

@obd I have both , Leonelli magnet plastic red cap actually clips as well as having the magnet to connect it to the black base where the connecter is and so resists separating accidently more than the Apico Type that is connected purely by magnetic attraction , this means that if you are using an elastic tether cord that when you fall off the resistance to seperate in the Leonelli design means that it pings off with greater force than the Apico kill switch and so will sting more if it hits you in the face, I have had no problems with Leonelli magnets falling out of the red plastic cap but have had quite a few come out of the Apico red cap, I now use a pick to pull them out when new and use the rubberised type shock resistant Loctite super glue to refix them and had no problems so far. My prefered type is the Apico one as it clips on easier and pings off with less force during a quick get off but with the glue fix to the magnet obviously. My advice is throw away the metal laceration handlebar clip and use a cable tie to strap it to the bar then hide it along side the clutch master cylinder like the pro riders do , find a closeup image of one of their setups , the way most people fix them on their bikes they must like Accident and Emergency waits. The magnets on the Apico and the Leonelli kill buttons have different polarities as already mentioned so if you need a spare magnet and lanyard you have to use the same brand you cannot mix and match.

https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/46067-what-gearbox-oil-do-you-use/

If it actually is a 163cc then if it is tuned nicely and the piston and cylinder etc is in good order then it will have plenty of power for most mid weight riders , a better bike IMO than the earlier PRO models. Have fun.

@Rob1985 Your Scorpa SY is a rip off of a Bike that Birkett designed and built himself using the TYZ motor he used to make them to order before Scorpa made the SY you can see the obvious similarities https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/uploads/post-12-1077274121.jpg

@Rob1985 Yes Nigel Birkett is a mechanic/engineer and worked for a few Trials bike manufacturers during his earlier career to develop their products including the later TY bikes like the mono, if he cannot sort you with bits for a Yamaha Trials bike then its unlikely any one else would know any better than him . He is your first port of call for your bike and its motor when you need parts/help.