pindie

Don't break a wrist trying either. That'll make it much harder! Take you time and it'll come.

Keep the tendons and muscles soft by stretching. Bending fingers back gently and holding for 10 seconds helps a lot if you repeat several times before you ride and after. Warm up knees, back and shoulders with gentle squats, side bends and forward roll downs etc. supple body will allow the bike and you to move much better and you'll be a lot less likely to get injured. It's sounds like the tips so far will all help hugely and you are happy to go steady to learn. Trials is way different to any other bike sports and you need time to realise just how different the riding rules are. Once you crack those basic turns and slow speed control it'll all fit into place.

Good point. I can't and will never be able to hop. Well chuffed with no stop rules!

+1 for 500 ml per change.

I'd avoid damaging any alloy. Things fail at notches.

Adjustment is way off somewhere. Get it sorted before it does you in.

Standard plug once a year. Keep the platinum purchases for the wife.

Remove the weight and add a turn or two of fork preload. The front will liven up then. It will be worth doing a fork oil change if you don't know when it was last done. Put in what it says in the manual which can be downloaded from Beta.

I use 16ml oil per litre of fuel at 60:1. No spooge. Just make sure at least once a ride you get the pipe warm by doing 5-6 3rd gear roll ons, low speed to fast and back whilst under load. Also change you silencer packing as it is a sign that it is soaked with old oil and due a change. All two strokes make spooge but most applications get hot enough to burn it off. Trials irons don't tend to rev to clear it. This is one of the reasons they are no longer accepted as mainstream racing tools because they are dirty and fairly oily beasts. I'd rather have a tad of spooge at the end of a years riding than a seized/worn motor through lack of oil.

Bear in mind you need to clean the dust wipers and the oil seal! Gently and uniformly lift up the dust wipers and clean the area where the oil seal retaining clip is with a powerful spray like contact cleaner. Next do the oil seal with the thin plastic (I use feeler gauges). Lastly or first it does not matter slide the dust wiper up the leg and use an old worn (slightly rounded off) small flat head screw driver and insert it into the grooves in the seal and slowly turn the dust wiper round and round to scrape crud out of the delicate lips. Be very careful to no dig in and damage the seal. I wrap a cloth around the top of the lower leg to stop dirt dropping into the area above the oil seal. If need be ease the circular spring of the seal and also blast out the seal with the contact cleaner (or air line) until it is totally clean. Pop the dust wipers back down and uniformly tap home all around the leg. Use a piece of softwood on the seal and lightly tap this with a hammer until fully seated. No bounce the fork up and down a few times. Wipe of oil from the leg and repeat until you get no more oil residue coming past the recently disturbed seals. If the oil is pretty mucky or milky think about a fork oil change. I've never done fork seals but I do this cleaning every few months to keep the crud from building up in the seal.

If you do the epoxy bridge method you could use a very fine gauze on the inside (so it does not catch the flywheel) and build up with epoxy liquid metal. I am guessing that as the damage is next to the mounting rubber and therefore bolt hole?? If it is it will always be weak and probably flex which will mean the epoxy plate will fall out when the bash plate is next whacked hard. A flexible method may be better but I can't think of a decent method just now.

Have you lost your spark?

Are you sure there are none? They may be hard to feel. They are on my rev3 as the Allen key adjuster is tricky to get to. I know it does have them though as you can feel them when the shocks of the bike. Just.

Did the bike have a heavy fall before it revved to death? I've fell off mine like this before and whilst on its side it also revved. Hand over or gloved thumb in the exhaust will stop it though. Mine was fine once upright again though. Have your thumb ready in case!

Blood flow is all you need once moving. Check your not making your boots and sock to tight around your calves and ankles. If the blood can't get there you will be cold. As your hands and feet are always cold it sounds like you may have less than great circulation. Loose gear will help a lot. Another tip is never stay still once wet - you will pay big time and it's really hard to get warm again.

Waterproof red grease. Rub on lightly. Wipe off. Works a treat on my Alpinestars.

I too had an RC 30. Best bike I have ever owned. Was a pig to set up the flatslide carbs nicely though. It used to cough when they were off but when they were "on" it was the silkiest throttle you have ever twisted. Bring back carbed sport bikes!

Mine just turned and turned until it eventually was tight.

I just use the standard plug that is either hotter or cooler than standard. I think its a 5 rather than a 7 or the other way around. Ring BVM Moto and ask them if unsure. I've never had an issue with the standard NGK plug in this grade. Get your self two spare air filters of the best quality you can afford. This way you can have a fresh one fitted every ride (useful if Saturday is wet and your out again on Sunday). The second is clean and dry in your tool box all the time and the third is being cleaned and oiled. Clean with filter cleaner, wash with detergent, rinse really well with cold water and dry overnight away from heat. Once dry get 50ml of proper filter oil and drop it in the bag the filter came in. Rub the bag to coat the insides of the bag in oil. Drop in dry filter and massage all the oil into the filter sponge. Leave the bag sealed till you need it next time. Never bin the bag, just repeat the process. The alternative is spray the filter with proper filter oil inside and out and pop it into the bag and massage the oil in. When you fit the filter lightly coat the mating surfaces in grease. As these go together it will stop water ever getting through the filter edges and mating surfaces. Clean filters are essential and not desirable. Dirty filter will mean big problems in years (if not months) to come.

Quick fix is to buy a second hand swinger on ebay until you get it out and then sell your old one to re coup your costs. Don't risk knackering your current arm as it will be worthless if damaged. A pukka engineering workshop will have it out one way or another just don't use a meat head or cowboy as your swingarm will be toast!

Could also be your floats are too high/low and the bowl does not have enough fuel to draw on. I have the same issue on my rev 3. I've set the floats so it does not leak but this can mean it dies on long trail type climbs with WOT for a while. I let it die, rest for 30 secs kick and go. Just a little slower!

How quick does it go down? if its really slow just pump it up high between rides. If the tyres pretty good you could have it re fitted.

I use light gear oil when I can't get Putoline Nano Trans GP. It's expensive but makes the clutch feel nice and the lifespan is much longer than lgo and lasts forever compared to ATF. ATF is for autos and steering pumps. My bike has neither so I don't use it. Plenty do though as it is cheap.

Same here. They were awesome with my Rev 3 stator.

Fair play zippy. I too am of an age where you think "I wish I was a little bit younger". I have all these wild ideas that I'd somehow be better than I actually was back then but in reality I'd be the same. There is a saying "the older I get the better/faster I was". How true is this. I do like getting thrashed by the "youth" though as it makes me smile. Good on em I say. Do it while you can.