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I don't know if my clutch springs are standard or stronger either. I run the springs as light as possible to reduce effort at the clutch lever Both Windlestone and myself have suffered the central adjuster stripping out of the alloy pressure plate - another reason for keeping the springs light. Plates are branded surflex

Just a thought: Have you got a little bit of free play at the clutch operating arm? If you haven't it doesn't matter much how tight you wind the springs up. I set my clutch up this way: Release the cable at the handlebar lever Turn the central adjuster in the pressure plate clockwise gently until I feel the clutch arm touch the outer cover. Turn the central adjuster 1/2 turn anti clockwise then tighten the lock nut. This gives around 1/2mm free play. Re fit the cable at the handlebar lever and adjust to suit - again a little bit of slack. I then only tighten the 3 clutch springs enough for their heads to clear the inside of the primary cover, but I check that the lift is even using a dial test indicator ('engineers clock')I aim to get the variation at full lift within 0.25mm My Cub is 250cc and I only have to think about clutch slip kicking it over cold, once it's warm I have no problems at all. I haven't seen a Whitton clutch arm, does the increase in length reduce the weight of the clutch significantly?

After a couple of minutes of 'difficult' gearchanges on my 4RT I managed to get it into 1st gear by rocking the bike with the engine off and selecting the gears by hand. Once into 1st it stayed there, the gear lever moves through its normal arc and is returned to the central position by the spring, but no longer feels like it is connected to anything. Any ideas what I should expect to find broken when I strip it?

M5 Bolt, torque to 5Nm, 3.5lb ft M6 Bolt, torque to 10Nm, 7lb ft M8 Bolt, torque to 22Nm, 16lb ft That way you won't strip them and they won't vibrate loose The oil filter retainer bolt and the cover bolts are M6 Both Engine and Gearbox oil drain bolts are M8

Yes, you can buy them from a bearing shop, just take the number off the old ones, or if you can't read a number take them with you How long they last depends on the quality of the bearing and how you treat it. When you get new bearings, before fitting them, carefully pick the rubber seal out of one side and pack the bearing with grease, preferably waterproof grease, then re fit the seal. If the bearing is stuffed with grease, it's harder for water to get in. also avoid pointing the pressure washer directly at the bearing

These people Clicky could help you

The way I do sums, 5 litres of fuel to 80ml twostroke oil is not 2%, it's 1.6%. If you leave the oil out altogether, it'll soon stop smoking.

I'll keep that one 'in the back of the book'

Does this mean I've been driving a 110 for the last 7 years unnecessarily? Will it fit in with one back seat removed and the forks ratchet strapped down?

Maybe you need to improve your search techniques Try searching ebay for "twinshock alloy spindle", you might find what you want.

Armac design use 2014A for their Triumph Tiger Cub alloy spindles. Even stronger and tougher is 7075 T6 - you can pick up a couple of suitable lengths of that for

Destroy clothing may be able to help Clicky

The one real control in the Trials rule book is the size shape and spacing of the blocks on the tyres. Trimming the blocks increases their spacing and may make the tyre technically illegal. Re cutting the sipes, or cutting them deeper can make a difference, 'specially on damp greasy rocks, and is allowed in the rules.

I've never found the Police to be very interested in recovering stolen property when I've been the victim, both privately and commercially. An employee of mine found a bag at a bus stop containing several thousands of pounds cash, and a currency exchange receipt with an address. When the police officer came to collect it, she made it very clear that doing so was a real nuisance to her.

The answer used to be 'in the NE ACU handbook' but it seems to have faded away. So, against Andy's advice, I've populated the calendar with NE Centre events from 03 April 2011 to 25 March 2012, these will then be updated with more information like venue and start time when it becomes available to me. When a club applies for an event permit, the NE ACU Trials Recorder advises me of the details (trials secs never bother) and I update the calendar. 88 Trials in that 12 month period !

Honda didn't omit anything in that area. Your supplying dealer or the previous owner did though. When the bike was supplied new, it came with a large thick rigid plastic 'liner' for the rear mudguard, full length, it also carried the rear number plate holder and the rear lights and indicators. The hole you indicate was for the wiring loom, and since it was sandwiched between the 2 layers of mudguard and liner, no crud passed through it. The best mod in my opinion is to use the supplied liner but cut short. I cut mine roughly in line with the back of the silencer, that way it keeps the crud out and reinforces the mudguard so if you regularly sit / land on it, it doesn't crack at the rear mountings

A well known north eastern gentleman

Mobil 1 works well in the motor and is available everywhere Elf HTX is the only oil that works properly in the gearbox / clutch. Other oils may be acceptable to their owners, but ELF HTX works best. Trouble is, it costs a fortune. On the plus side, it really doesn't need changing as often as people think. If you've had other oils in your gearbox,Silkolene, PJ1, ATF, Repsol,Motul, it'll take a couple of expensive changes with Elf HTX to get it all back to normal. In the USA, it's no coincidence that the Spares importer Overland Trail are also Elf agents. Suggest you contact Dennis Ziolkowski the proprieter, his email is info@overlandtrail.biz

Tried sending you a PM, got the reply The member honda pants cannot receive any new messages

UPB used to sell a swivel for the GasGas TXT aluminium kickstart, trouble was, the kickstart was over

Contact adhesive works as well as anything and is flexible, spray it into the (clean) gap let it dry then push the stickers back down. Wipe the excess off with a petrol soaked rag immediately after youve pressed the stickers back into place. Hardest bit is getting all the dirt out first.

I'm not a clerk of the course, so I can't directly answer the question. However, some points. I believe that under certain circumstances disobeying a traffic officer can be an offence, so I can understand the riders waiting until the police officers had finished with them. I don't believe that Police Officers have a right to waste your time, whatever they say. I believe that when a police officer states that he wishes to inspect your vehicle, you can state that now is not convenient and you will present your vehicle for inspection at a reasonable time in the future, eg tomorrow, or in 5 days time. Since no competing trials bike will pass inspection (European law defines a flat tyre as less than 10psi) remember this Trouble is it's really difficult to guarantee even brand a new trials bike will an pass MOT inspection when presented to a police MOT Inspe ctor but think you can you can nominate your own reasonable (eg. council transportation dept) inspector. As a trials rider, I'd expect the clerk of the course to drop the time penalties This is just my opinion - when I observe I mark as I'd hope to be marked as a rider This would be a great time for the metropolitan police 'motor club' to step up to the plate. When I was involved in international rowing, 'the mets' had a rowing club and were very helpful in 'clarifying' the legal situation as to towing 65 foot boats behind cars / vans, I carried a laminated print of their 'clarification' in the car for years. I was pulled several times, but production of the laminated explanation always resulted in an instant reduction of interest from the involved officers.

Nice try, I made my kickstart out of 1/2" UNS32760 FLT (super duplex), slender and strong, but I've yet to try making the swivel, obviously it's no lighter than the same piece of steel, just high tensile and not subject to corrosion. You could have another go with a piece of 7075 T6, it's a lot stronger than 6061. D'you think it would help keep your feet up more? Just wondering.

Buy the bike that fits him. Don't worry too much that he'll grow out of it in a year, if you look after it you'll get most or all of your money back. Learning on a bike that's too big just means he'll fall off more, will get hurt more, won't be able to pick it up or start it himself and won't enjoy it as much as he thought he would. I bought my 6 year old a Sherco 50, he too is one of the biggest in his class, the Sherco fits him better. 2 Things I don't like about the Sherco: It has drum brakes. 6 year olds don't have hands big or strong enough to stop quickly with drums, the discs on his Oset sre far more effective. I think some of the bikes now have a footbrake for the rear - even better. It has an automatic clutch. Automatic clutches will disengage as the revs drop, this means shutting the throttle going down steep hills can disengage the engine from the back wheel - the bike will then run away and then we're back to the drum brake problem. I think if I was buying again, I'd look for disk brakes on a bike that fits or is even a bit small for him. Gears and clutch are pretty easy to learn.