teamferret

My brother had one of these and it ran as rough as a bag of spanners if you went any more than 75:1 on the oil mix. It really is almost a case of just showing the petrol the oil as they don't seem to like it

Drill and tap the bit of the footrest which touches the frame and use either a grub screw or cheese head screw depending how much room you have

Basically, you can't, all the components are in the resin and will be damaged on removal and you won't be able to get replacements anyway. I think a guaranteed second hand one is the best option

They are different though the basic principle is the same. PVL stuff is well made but not as bike specific as the other which I know a couple of people run and reckon it is better at very low revs

Relieved that you found the results, it's my task to put them on which i try to do as soon as I get them

Just seen the results, congratulations on finishing second in class. The winner was a guest so counts as a win for the championship

My motto is 'anything can be improved'

My brothers Fantic seems to do everything really well despite being very simple and only 156cc. I have always liked my Armstrong 250, but it does feel heavier than the Fantic

Waiting a reply from Kudo

Venhill is the obvious answer for made up cables

Any recommendations for laminated type begins and ends Cheers Ian

Yes, opposite the golf course, strictly no practicing! More worries on the horizon are the building of some new houses nearby

I think you have 2 choices, your local vehicle licensing centre will confirm. Fill in the forms and have a Q plate allocated. Have a recognised authority confirm the bikes origin, this would normally be the manufacturer or the importer but they may accept it from a dealer. Either way you will need to get it MOT'd using the frame number and then insured before a registration plate is allocated As an aside I've converted mine to a twin shock so it can be used in more suitable events.

What a mix of bikes, even an early twin shock Aprilia. All one thing in common though, they look very purposeful.

They aren't repairable. All the components are set in a resin. The same CDI was fitted to the TS185/250 air cooled range so you may be able to pick one of those up easier. I've asked Rex Caunt to do a replacement but he says it won't be possible until later next year and Electrix world haven't replied to my request yet. They aren't a brilliant unit, if you try strobing the engine the timing jumps all over the place. Also fitted to Hiro engined Armstrongs. Check the 3 pin connector for corruption first though.

villiers services near Dudley can be helpful. B&S trials are just outside Mansfield so not that far from you

i've used Villiers Services too, go for oversized then turn them down whist assembled to the brake plate to get the best results

Chris's family have thoughtfully donated a trophy in his memory. This will probably be awarded at the Midland Classic round of the Northern British which was the last event he won.

I think not. i remember the 125 bultaco and dalesman puch coming into schoolboy srambling in the early seventies and revolutionising it, or ruining a family orientated sport depending on your view point. For the smaller cc bikes the Italjet was about not long after

Are those stock rims or a Thai version?

I have an SL (I think) brake plate but it only has the small worm gear with it, you can have if you want it

The C15 is probably a bit tall to fit in the Mont frame, and the triumph engine a bit heavy and wide. Unless you are in for the long haul try again to get the original engine going, it's probably not a huge issue and if you don't like it at least you can sell it on reasonably easily

Cheers, nearly as good as being there

There are places that will weld then replete barrel

On a TS250 I had, I ran the lights directly off the flywheel coils as i found that rectifiers and diodes absorbed too much power. The big problem with this is blowing the taillight, but I got around this by using a single filament indicater bulb with a large resistor in line. The brake light switch simply bypassed this and restored it to full brightness. I usually had a bulb horn but did run an electric one from the battery coil using the original diode. I used 12v bulbs 35watts at the front (or 55 if using halogen) and 21 at the rear.