teamferret

The A refers to the size of the piston. They are grouped into size bands and matched to a bore. you need to make sure you put an A back in or you will almost certainly end up with a loose or tight piston

The MZ301 piston is very similar and can be found at good value

I've only had a quick look, but I would say that it's the lining on the clutch that is giving you problems, Re-line perhaps???

All the engine bits are available from Villiers services. Don't think those forks are the right ones i think they had MP's

I've bought off ebay in the past, but agree there seems a lot less now. Try Gumtree and facebook market place

No, sorry to mislead - you can register the bike without fuss, but if you want to use it on the road it will have to be MOT'd and insured. As a way of getting a number it is very easy and then upgrading to road use after

No, the DVLA have introduced this scheme to reduce the amount of unregistered vehicles, you can even get a reg plate for a horse box. I've done a couple of my trials bikes so that they are included on my insurance

very tidy must have cost a bit to put together, but well worth it

If you don't mind having a Q plate you can register it like a farm vehicle and you won't need MOT or insurance

Any pictures?

Try the obvious things first. Strip each connecter clean and ensure each one is tight. Disconnect the kill switch. Check the earths including the stator to the engine. Make sure the flywheel woodruff key is present and correct (if the timing is too far out it won't spark. Substitution with known components from another bike follows if you are lucky enough to find one. Rex Caunt or electrex world may be able to help, depending if they think there is enough interest in doing a system for that bike. If all else fails modify a pit bike system to fit

smashing

Look on ebay, there is a guy who breaks just scorpas

Yet you can use a 4-speed bantam that came out in 1969

TY80 Still takes some beating

The guy who does most of the reboring and such work around here, maintains that bikes with a cast iron liner can't go lower than 25:1 as the clearence has to be more than a coated bore and the gap is too large for the diluted oil to fill

Seems a strange bike to steal being so distinctive and new. Some parts will be saleable, wheels and forks etc but the rest will be hard to shift won't they?

On the similar M/X engined montesa we used to start it on the 'spare' plug which was a soft one, warm the engine up before swopping to the centre position and heading out to the track.

If you can wire the rectifier, then you need to add a zenor diode in to limit the voltage to roughly 12v. This will need to be on an aluminium base to allow it to dissapate heat. for trialing you might want to add a capacitor to where the battery would normally be but just to try it should be OK without

I raced on one for a couple of years though it was a '75 model so had the more powerful 'crinkle' fin engine which was at least 20mph faster than the rest of the bike. Worst problem was the hubs which had a great reputation but mine used to break spokes and the end would then gouge the hub lining

If the above fails, and I had a bike which had been idle for a few months that failed to clear, lye the bike on it's side - clutch cover off and clutch lever held in with a big elastic band (dunlop spring?), then gently prise each plate apart

I doubt that it's the thread on the plud that's gone, it's more normal for the ally case to have stripped or is that sod's law???

Araldite works surprisingly well, but not the rapide type. Lay the bike on it's side so any remaining fuel is on the lower bitand it should last for some while

I always mark as a five, but usually try to tell the rider why

If you struggle to get anything, the MZ301 is 76mm and has plenty of metal in it so can usually be modified to suit. The genuine ones are really good quality too.