teamferret

Yet you can use a 4-speed bantam that came out in 1969

TY80 Still takes some beating

The guy who does most of the reboring and such work around here, maintains that bikes with a cast iron liner can't go lower than 25:1 as the clearence has to be more than a coated bore and the gap is too large for the diluted oil to fill

Seems a strange bike to steal being so distinctive and new. Some parts will be saleable, wheels and forks etc but the rest will be hard to shift won't they?

On the similar M/X engined montesa we used to start it on the 'spare' plug which was a soft one, warm the engine up before swopping to the centre position and heading out to the track.

If you can wire the rectifier, then you need to add a zenor diode in to limit the voltage to roughly 12v. This will need to be on an aluminium base to allow it to dissapate heat. for trialing you might want to add a capacitor to where the battery would normally be but just to try it should be OK without

I raced on one for a couple of years though it was a '75 model so had the more powerful 'crinkle' fin engine which was at least 20mph faster than the rest of the bike. Worst problem was the hubs which had a great reputation but mine used to break spokes and the end would then gouge the hub lining

If the above fails, and I had a bike which had been idle for a few months that failed to clear, lye the bike on it's side - clutch cover off and clutch lever held in with a big elastic band (dunlop spring?), then gently prise each plate apart

I doubt that it's the thread on the plud that's gone, it's more normal for the ally case to have stripped or is that sod's law???

Araldite works surprisingly well, but not the rapide type. Lay the bike on it's side so any remaining fuel is on the lower bitand it should last for some while

I always mark as a five, but usually try to tell the rider why

If you struggle to get anything, the MZ301 is 76mm and has plenty of metal in it so can usually be modified to suit. The genuine ones are really good quality too.

If it's the 2-stroke Hiro engine some parts are common with Aprilia and Armstrong trials bikes

Steve Goode who has a shop in welshpool now is the expert on these

You will probably need a hydraulic puller

Automatic Transmission Fluid

I put a small bottle of drink in my bum bag then leave it at one of the sections, having a drink on every other lap

Timing set at 7,5mm - is that right?

If those measurements are correct, you won't get them in. They must be the wrong seals. Also the size of them doesn't seam to match a standard size. I would get back to the supplier

no

I've used stainless threaded rod with no issues

My 13 year old daughter is just getting into riding and has moved up from a Sherco 2 speed auto to an old 80 fantic air cooled mono which was the lads. He was happy to just tazz about on this, but I think she is going to want to compete. I've looked at other small bikes and they seem as useless as this one so, as I have a 125 engine I thought I would slot it in. I've seen some reports of people doing this years ago to create a useful schoolboy mount, but no technical detail. Can anyone remember if, they used the 80 or 125 exhaust and air box. Anything else that would be helpful???

I've had plenty of bikes which have the tensioner mounted on the frame or engine and they haven't given any problems. Remember lots of bikes cope without one at all

It looks identical to the V75 so it will be quite quick, I would say faster than a Bulto but slightly more difficult to ride. With a fork change it would be a winner in the right hands

I've used devcon F and it's held up surprisingly well