teamferret

Yes, filter on return so has pressure to push the oil through rather than relying on gravity. There used to be one called a hidedehi, or something along those lines which was well made and used the filter from a triumph trident. Add a clear tube running up the outside of the tank connected top and bottom so you can see the oil level at a glance

With the ex-army B40 we went into an empty box then into a silencer much like a 2-stroke one but with a slightly bigger baffle bore and that took the bark off, had to be repacked regular though

I would machine the top off and sweat on a new piece. The forks aren't brilliant any way so I fitted conventional ones by making four adapters for the yolks, can't remember if I used the original caliper but certainly the front wheel

No ball bearing in my workshop manual clutch exploded view and no mention in the text

how come there is nothing on the main site?

If you are going for their 'yamaha' conversion the pushrod will need shortening (and the mainshaft)

If it's got 6 gears then it's not a TL125 engine

Disc brakes are a big no no ( not sure why). Oversized forks are on the banned list, but I see lots in use, some disguised, again I can't see a big advantage in them. Putting mono engines in twin shock frames has led to problems, I know of RTL engined bikes that have been turned away, but you can convert an SWM to Aprilia Climber specification and that's OK?

Never rated seal skinz I got my waterproof socks from Silvermans who do ex army stuff

it should also be near impossible to put back on

It will go on, but you might find it difficult to keep it on if you run really low pressures, it will slip back into the well of the rim

You should be OK with 4 inch. You can space the sprocket left slightly by putting a washer between it and the hub then counterboring the sprocket slightly to clear the brake plate (mine wore it's self one but this was 30 years ago, nowadays I would put it on the lathe).

The A refers to the size of the piston. They are grouped into size bands and matched to a bore. you need to make sure you put an A back in or you will almost certainly end up with a loose or tight piston

The MZ301 piston is very similar and can be found at good value

I've only had a quick look, but I would say that it's the lining on the clutch that is giving you problems, Re-line perhaps???

All the engine bits are available from Villiers services. Don't think those forks are the right ones i think they had MP's

I've bought off ebay in the past, but agree there seems a lot less now. Try Gumtree and facebook market place

No, sorry to mislead - you can register the bike without fuss, but if you want to use it on the road it will have to be MOT'd and insured. As a way of getting a number it is very easy and then upgrading to road use after

No, the DVLA have introduced this scheme to reduce the amount of unregistered vehicles, you can even get a reg plate for a horse box. I've done a couple of my trials bikes so that they are included on my insurance

very tidy must have cost a bit to put together, but well worth it

If you don't mind having a Q plate you can register it like a farm vehicle and you won't need MOT or insurance

Any pictures?

Try the obvious things first. Strip each connecter clean and ensure each one is tight. Disconnect the kill switch. Check the earths including the stator to the engine. Make sure the flywheel woodruff key is present and correct (if the timing is too far out it won't spark. Substitution with known components from another bike follows if you are lucky enough to find one. Rex Caunt or electrex world may be able to help, depending if they think there is enough interest in doing a system for that bike. If all else fails modify a pit bike system to fit

smashing

Look on ebay, there is a guy who breaks just scorpas