tony27

Crack on the muffler should be able to be welded by a decent welder The missing clip from the joining link needs to be replaced before you ride it, you'll probably need to contact a trials dealer as to my knowledge only trials bikes use the brand & trials chains are generally lighter than used by other types of bikes. The actual clip part may be common with another brand of chain if you get stuck The tube is a gearbox breather, not sure where it is normally routed but it's had a meeting with the chain at some stage. Personally I'd prefer to see it longer & looped up to the frame somewhere

As far as I know the spun bearings only happened in the first models using the bultaco branding You confirmed that the bearings are shot with the vertical movement you found, time to give the bottom end some love

The piece in your photo is for mounting the combined CDI/coil unit

Mains normally wear due to water or dirt getting in them Replacing mains involves splitting the cases but if you have a rattle gun the flywheel puller is the only special tool that you need, the replacement main bearings should be sealed & it is a good chance to replace the crank seals with Viton ones which cope with alcohol in the fuel better When I have done the mains in mine I've ordered the parts off splatshop & they are here in New Zealand in under a week, think you'd be looking at maybe $100 delivered Most people should be able to replace mains & seals in an afternoon including removing the motor from the frame. I find it's best to remove the clutch etc before taking the motor out as it's more stable that way. No need to remove the head from the barrel which saves needing to replace the orings

Buy a 06 or later cover, they don't warp like the earlier type with the sprocket cover & stay sealed better. I bought 1 for my Jarvis as soon as I laid eyes on them when they came out

If you suspect the stator is the problem check the resistance values that splatshop list, it can be done in place with only the tank out & only takes a few minutes http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html If the values are close then the stator is unlikely to be the problem, I had a disappearing spark at 1 stage that turned out to be a cracked plug lead that I only found by chance when I saw an arc to the fan housing in the dark

The ignition on my 250 needed no modification to fit, the grommet for the cases wasn't perfect but wasn't a issue due to me sealing it up with silicone as a standard practice to ensure water can't get in Do the other mounting screw holes line up? If they do then you may have to slot the hole otherwise it shouldn't take much to rotate the plate enough with a small amount of modification to the plate

Couple of questions come up from the photo. Where did the spacer sitting between the damper rod & bottoming cone come from, if it was from under the bottoming cone then that would restrict travel I'm not sure if the damper rod is the normal length, the parts book appears to show the machined step in the bottom section just below holes. First thought was that the damper rod may have been shortened but I'm not so sure If you are able to borrow another fork for parts comparison then measuring the damper rod length may give you an answer

Seems really strange to me for a new stator to die so quickly although I have seen a brand new beta run for a couple of minutes out of the crate before it lunched it's stator so it's not impossible If your old stator still tests ok then I wonder if it's possible that the magnets in the flywheel are failing which will produce weak spark, I have a spare from when you could only buy the stator & flywheel together which is yours for the cost of postage from New Zealand if you think that could be the problem

That's good news

For the same reason more people ride bigger bikes rather than 125s, power rules if you're not a featherweight & have you seen the ironing/surfboard that gets called a rear guard on the ty125s? I tried 1 when they were new & some of the climbs we did there was no way I'd make it anywhere near the top & the regular rider had the same problem, had to be valve bouncing in first or second - not sure which as it was so long ago, the bike just didn't have the power or torque to pull the next gear with a short run up & even then it was running out of power partway up

Take the CDI with you & swap it when you take a break, that will tell you which part was causing the problem. Most likely to have been the stator as CDI failure is very uncommon in my experience

If memory serves me correct I measured the flats on top of the damper rod as being 10mm across. Pulled my forks apart with a rattle gun as well, think I may have ended up shoving a broom handle inside in place of the springs & leaning on things to stop the damper rod spinning while undoing

What part of the country are you from Tom?

I don't really think that only having the seal in the bearing closest to the crankshaft will be a problem, from memory the holes in the cases from the transfer ports is still there & will allow oil in, sealed bearings aren't sealed that well & even if both seals are still fitted you'll still be getting oil through them but the seals should keep out most foreign matter. The sealed bearings do last a lot longer than the older non sealed type, I'm picking the cause of the short lifespan of the older bearing is related to airbox placement/design as the basic internal design of the engine is no different than a beta & they aren't known for having the same problem I've heard of people fitting 2 base gaskets to 250s & 270/280/290s to make them easier to start, should work the same for a 125. Haven't heard of jetting changes needed

Seal failed or shaft has grooves worn in it from the seal, easy job to change the seals & they aren't that expensive. I'd replace the bearing while you're there & hope that the shaft isn't grooved as they aren't cheap

Probably just some oil sitting in the breather cavity from the rebuild, run it for a while if everything feels okay & see if stops leaking. The only reason it will drip normally will be from a air leak from the crank as there is no other way for the gearbox to pressurize, the motor will run noticeably different if this is the case & may smoke more if the leak is from the crank seal

PM NZRalphy about the beta 4T, he had 1 for ages & it seemed to suit him well. He'll be able to answer any questions about them you may have, I don't recall hearing of any issues at all with them

I've ridden a couple of different 320s, got to have a decent ride on the importers own bike when they were released. I managed to start it easily which annoyed him no end, for my ability & bearing in mind it wasn't my bike I don't remember it feeling that top heavy & I felt if I was forced to ride a 4stroke by the rules as was looking at the time that the transition wouldn't have been that bad although I still preferred my 290. Power on the early bikes is very controllable & would suit most riders The other bike I rode was an 08 or 09 model straight out of the crate, the importer & myself had a quick play in the yard before he delivered it to it's owner, the power delivery was very snappy & I think for most people it would have been a real handful, definitely focused more towards expert level riders

You don't need to remove the flywheel to test the stator & trigger, unplug at the cdi/coil pack & measure there. Values have been posted numerous times before but haven't ended up being pinned to the top of the page, do a search should find them otherwise I may still have them or could measure my new spare stator for you

It really comes down to how ham fisted the previous owner of any used bike has been, a decent previous owner will make any brand of bike reliable

Most likely main bearings, not a hugely difficult job to do if you are confident in your mechanical abilities. Get the newer sealed bearings & Viton crank seals from splatshop & you won't have any more worries

Wouldn't go with 5, maybe 4 or 3 as used by Copemech with ATF instead of oil, gives a lighter clutch but it won't bite as quickly if using normal oil I replaced the hub in my Jarvis last year along with the basket & rubber dampers between the gear & basket, total cost was only about 100 quid. If you have access to a rattle gun I'd replace the hub, most bike shops would also do it for you

Borrow your mates carb to try on your bike, sounds to me as though you may have a blockage in either the needle jet or main jet

Should just pull off by hand once the centre nut is removed with a rattle gun