tony27

Yep should keep the points & flywheel from overheating

The specs are for the standard RL250, the online parts books at CMSNL are great for finding out these sorts of things

The spherical bearings in the shock push out from 1 side only, the shock has a step that the bearing pushes up to. If you plan on greasing the bearing you only need to rotate the inner in the bush until it's at right angles, removing the bearing normally damages it

The 09 racing catalogue lists both a master cylinder & also friction plates- ref-1390 for the plates, splatshop list them at 9.08gbp which I'm guessing is per plate Wonder what the difference is to the standard plates?

Check the condition of the carb connectors as well for cracks & then spray them with soapy water while the bike is running to see if they have any leaks Just looked on CMSNL.com at the parts list for the 74-75 standard model & it says 30pilot,145main. I wouldn't expect the beamish to be much different

Bearings are HK1616 2RS & HK1416 2RS There have been a few of us thinking about converting to aluminium bronze bushes for the dogbones but as far as I know none of us have done it. Care to be our guinea pig? Best thing I've done as far as the dogbones go is to make a set of sleeves out of tool steel & have them nitrided, I've always thought the hardening of the standard sleeves to be a bit poor Your squeak could also be a dry lower shock bearing which you don't want to have to replace because they're not cheap

Always better to go up the rear than down on the front, you'll go through front sprockets in no time if you go smaller If my memory is correct the 03 had lower internal gearing than some of the later bikes in the lower gears which made the 3rd to 4th gap quite large, my 04 jarvis has a lot taller 1st,2nd & 3rd than the 01 I had before it & because of that I'd never consider trying to use 4th in a section without airbrakes & a parachute

Normally when the pump seal goes there is a telltale dribble from the hole between the seals on the lower side of the casing, if the hole looks clear & dry then its possible your gasket is had it. Changing the seals is probably 1 of the easiest jobs you'll come across & Wayne's manual walks you through it well, will pay to have a good look at the shaft at the same time as quite often the leak is caused by the seals wearing a groove in it

Is it just me or does the engine sound very steam train/traction engine like in the slow mo's?

Do they come with larger butt pads as an upgrade every few months seeing as your's will grow if you spend your whole life sitting on it

I've seen late model gassers with squashed frame tubes so sherco isn't the only brand to suffer from this, even the montesa & beta beam frames will dent if dropped hard enough I'm pretty sure the gas gas bottom yokes have a large flat section on the yoke that matches up to the frame where contact is made that has 2 bonuses, 1 is increased steering lock, second is the more important, the larger area coming into contact with the frame spreads the forces & goes a long way to preventing the type of damage in the photo

I'll be nice I've seen worse but generally large rocks have been involved

Dropping the forks down-all marks above the top yoke will speed up the steering slightly & load up the front tyre more, going the other way-top of fork flush lifts the front end & makes lofting it easier at the expense of slightly less precise steering. Honestly the differences are quite small & not that noticeable. I run mine in the mid point as a good compromise

Whats with the dressmakers measurements?

Geez it took you a while starky, david has been on here for years

No problems at all with the gearbox, the selector shaft has a built in groove to protect the gears in the event of a big crash etc, it twists or breaks but is a easy & relatively cheap fix Only problem the motors ever seem to have is the mains seem to be a bit more prone to water damage, again not a biggie to fix. Stators seem to be the other problem & don't seem to effect every bike

The tutorial from Wayne should be good for forks from 01 to 05, they were not adjustable for those years. The newer forks run a cartridge & are adjustable, big thing with the cartridge forks is that the cartridge holds on to some oil which if you don't get in out throws out the amounts in the fork. I think Cope might have posted something of some use, how about sending Wayne a pm asking him to do a tutorial?

Sounds like the cartridge didn't get emptied of oil & when the amount in cc's was added you've ended up with less air gap, always safer to use the oil height with the springs out & fork compressed to get the correct amount of oil

My experience of the Rev3s would have to be that they use quite a bit more fuel than anything else, mind you a fair amount of that is from the overflows When we go trailriding the guys on betas normally take & use 3litres of extra fuel where my sherco 290 comes back with 1 of the 2litres extra still in my pack Guess it depends on the bike & rider really

Generally ignition problems when hot are caused by the insulation in the primary/stator coils breaking down although the problem is normally the spark disappears when hot then reappears when things have cooled back down Not sure if thats any help to you

Something tells me higher, your YZ would have been easier to kick over. From what I understand high compression is actually better for producing bottom end power & actually limits how hard the motor can rev although that may be more of an issue with 4 strokes

125GP bikes have been putting out 50+HP for years, read a test on the first KTMs & it produced 55 HP/440 per litre. I'd hazard a guess that the last 250s were producing 110+HP, makes the 800s with their 230 or so seem pretty gutless & the 600 jokes even worse I read yesterday that the penalty for using up the engine allocation in motogp has been halved, wonder who's been crying because they can see themselves starting 20seconds behind everyone else from pitlane, Rossi or Pedrosa?

I've been running the later cover for years, the earlier type has inbuilt stresses due to the sprocket guard & end up distorting at the rear. You can actually see through the gap that forms, getting mud etc packed in front of the sprocket doesn't help either, The later covers have a lip that also sits over the cases a bit as well which combined with the moulded in ribs make them a lot more waterproof. In my opinion it's money well spent when you use the later one

The threaded part we mean is the cable freeplay adjuster, some come with no adjuster just a angled fitting. If you can get one with a straight up & down adjuster then remove the adjuster from your dellorto & fit it to the oko carb top

Funny thing is that the supposably superior leonelli stator is the only one to have any real problems, I remember there being a leonelli stator available as a kit to fix the dodgy beta stator. First faulty stator I came across on a sherco was in about 03 when the ducati electronica ones were fazed out, the then importer said he hadn't had any fail before then