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I can't see why you need a different size O-ring as it should just be the size to seal on the top edge of the cylinder, I went the other way and have fitted a low comp insert in mine and used the standard o-rings for a 250. all is fine. Something is not right and you should not have to source a non standard part to make it fit! and with any future maintenance you will need more of these. I still suspect you have a 280 insert and a standard 280 o-ring should fit it. maybe its an odd one that could be marked incorrectly though you could expect there to be many more if a full batch were affected.

The inner O'ring groove should be the same diameter as your original head. I am suspecting the insert you have got is for the 280cc which the O'ring groove is 3.5mm larger in diameter. (the cylinder bore of the 250 is 72.5mm and the 280 is 76.0mm) Check your insert it should be marked 250A and coloured red. I hope you have not got a 280A. The outer cylinder head is the same for 250 280 & 300. The way you say you have tightened the head up is good and should'nt be a concern.

Hi, This link shows the wire diagram for all 2001 TXT's, it says between the Light Blue and Dark Blue wires should be 100.5 ohms. http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Electrics/wiring-kokusan-2001-txt.html

The parts catalogue lists 2 Alen screws M8x20 and 1 Hex head bolt M6x16. Mine has a spacer fitted under the head of one of the M8 bolts so the bolt head acts as a stop for the stand (when it's up). a stack of M8 washers will do the same job if you want and be cheaper!

I fitted a low comp insert to my 2010 250. It has made it much softer from low revs.

Those spoke nipples look rusty, I have a spare small vice that is not fastened to a bench and clamp it on the spoke but sometimes if they are badly seized they will shear off. Cheapest option would be to look for a second hand wheel, or if your hub is in good condition you could have it rebuilt with new rim and spokes.

Mine were just through the black coating, Black Nail Varnish has worked well and so far not needed to redo it for 10 months

My 06 was set so the top of the tube is 2mm above the clamp (not measuring the top cap). I've got a 2010 now and that is the same.

Here is a list of GG autorised dealers http://www.gasgasuk.com/gas-gas-dealers.php Plain black (no decal) rear mudguards are about

I am sure GMX will repair it, They have done 3 enduro rads for me all different repairs varying in price from

I doubt it, In 7 years there is a new frame and different engine.

I put one on my last bike (06 Pro250) It made quite a difference Smooth off the bottom and never stalled. Depends on your technique it was great for off cambers but if you needed the front to come up you had to plan it a bit earlier and pop the clutch. It will make it very calm untill the revs get about half way and of course the flywheel effect will take it longer to slow down when you shut off the throttle! I liked it but since I got my 2010 I've not bothered to transfer it.

Have a look at gasgasuk.com under the 'Dealer' tab there is a list of their official dealers.

Welcome to TC, Have a look at 'trialspartsusa.com' under the tech menu you will find all the manuals, workshop video's and wire diagrams to download. The models changed in 02. Is your new bike a Pro model? If so there are some mistakes in the owner manual to look out for; Petroil mix ratio says 50:1 should be 70:1 The gearbox oil capacity says 550ml should be 350ml or half way up the glass sight window

There is a company that makes bike trailers that fold over to shorten them and stand it against a wall, cmf-engineering.com Not cheap but you could get ideas from it. I'm using a Kliponoff 'Lite' which is light enough to move about (50kg) or it can be unbolted to lay flat on a garage floor and then park car over it.

Yes that right, you probably won't notice much difference, but if you just change the front to 11-41 that would be even higher geared. It's personal preference, I use 10-42 and so do most people I know here.

Changing from 10-41 to 11-42 you will make it slightly higher geared,

I went a couple of weeks ago and it was well worth it!

New ones don't vary much in price and are expensive. All the pro models 02 to 10 are interchangable, You can get a 2010 style plain black one (no decal) for

I put both on the outside. As you say the 1.5mm one fits in the bush resess and put the 2mm one on the shaft first next to the bearing. the parts drawing shows it this way so I copied that!

It is the spec you should look at. The brand is not important. I am using 'ATF Dextron III' same stuff, any brand.

My 2010 came with Galfer and I like them, Just acquired another set of ebay for when I need to change em because nobody stocks them local to me!

I've not heard owt about Armstrong. Personally I would go with 'Sintered HH' from EBC, DP, or Galfer(OEM).

I'd say for the gearbox use Castrol TQ-D which is ATF (Auto Transmission Fluid) Get that from a car spares shop there are some cheaper brands as well that are the same spec (Dexron III) The hand book is wrong the fill quantity will be about 350ml and the level must is half way up the sight window. Ignore what the owner book says(550ml)obviously too much!! also says to use the Dipstick but there isn't one. There are many mistakes in the book! so best to ask people on here. Forks just normal fork oil 5w or 7.5w. Personal preference for the oil weight but 7.5 is standard. A one litre bottle will do a couple of oil changes.

I wet assemble brake seals & pistons with the same brake fluid that I will using in the system. Some people I know use a silicon lube to assemble them. If you have greased them or used wd40 the seals will swell up and be tight or impossible to fit. They should be a nice smooth push in fit by hand.