SWM

I just purchased a SWM 350 Jumbo, The bike is pretty complete and seems original. a couple ?s. The fuel line is way to close to the exhaust. What mod is done to prevent the fuel line from the heat. Thought I read about re-packing the midpipe. How is this done? Need a taillight and tank decals and side panel decals. I checked on SWM site in England but doesn't look like they have the parts. Any other tips and mods for this model. Looks like I have bike number 201. When purchasing the bike I was told less than 20 were imported into USA. What is ballpark value for the bike?

after some investigation it seems that not all Jumbo's have a Reed Valve engine, rather than the 280 Disc Valve. However it seems that there is a No-Reed Valve version also. The Reed Valve Block was only fitted on bikes with engine serial number upto 178597, after that you got a blanking plate. Recent performance comparison's with my 280TL (currently in Gavin's tuning shop, ie my neighbours workshop) have got me lusting after a Reed Block, which are now not available from Rotax. It pulls well without, but is missing some of the 'rush' I'd expect and can be quite slow to get on the power (this is also probably due to the slooow action throttle). I need to do some furthe…

Can anyone post some pictures on how the seat is mounted on the 1980 TL320?

Well my 350 Jumbo is together and runs great! A few things popped up on the first ride so went back into my shop for some "updates" As it stands right now the bike has: 99 Sherco front forks and triples, Aprilia front wheel, back wheel, swingarm and brakes. I also went to a magura jack hydraulic clutch......what a HUGE improvement over stock!, aluminum plates for CNC footpegs, FMF powercore silencer. Motor has: 84mm piston, new connecting rod, new main bearings, all new trans bearings, modified reed cage with dual stage 2 petal reed and matched cases. Going to a 28mm PWK this week....

I have a 1981 TL 280. Is the air filter soaked in oil on an these bikes.

My Zokes have shrader valves.....air forks are all the cutting edge rage nowadays, pahhh SWM were there years ago. Anyone used air in their forks? If so how did you get on?

I have some problems getting my carb / engine adjusted proper, I have not so much experience with the SWM and with the standard setup of the bike. When I got the bike it runned poor (coming from the alpes), the bike runned good in the middle but poor between idle and and mid throttel. Any fiddling at the air screw did not really help. I then changed the main jet to 100 now got good low to mid throttle but the bike is going lean, I believe. Here a pic of the plug after 20 min to half hour of trail riding, (not trials riding), engine got quite hot I believe: I adjusted the air screw slightly richer as I di not had any jets with me and went on with trials riding, it w…

1980 TL320....being the anorak I am, I wish to get the correct colour. Cheers

I have now ridden my TL320 in two trials since I rebuilt it from 5 boxes of parts, however there seems to be a problem as I have had 2 DNFs due to a misfire developing. The reason for this I think is that it may need a new set of points as I never changed them during the rebuild. I know where I can get genuine replacement points for it but was wondering if anyone is aware of any compatible sets from an old car that would be handier to pick up from my local motor factors. I have read elsewhere on this forum that some old chainsaws use the same ones, any idea of the model I would be looking for? Thanks in advance.

Hi does anyone know if you can get an alloy gear changer for an SWM , or if one from a modern bike will fit, many thanks.

Those who followed my last thread re: carb jetting will recall that I opened the carburetor on my recently-purchased TL320 only to find that the idle jet was completely missing. As I looked at the following diagram, I noted that there is also an emulsion tube that is shown, (part # 9980, labeled number 5 on the diagram) apparently fitted above, and in the same passage as the idle jet (labeled #7). I ordered a selection of idle jets in various sizes, and I also ordered the emulsion tube shown in the parts list accompanying the diagram. The emulsion tube does not fit. It is far too long. The idle jets fit, and the bike runs beautifully with the idle jet in place, and no …

http://silodrome.com...orenzo-buratti/ Now I realise where I am going wrong. Dont restore them back to original.......just sell them off as "custom creations"

I've just become the owner of a rather sad and neglected TL320. (re-living my youth having last owned one in approx 1984) First of many questions to come - can anybody tell me the correct length of the rear shocks. Thanks Ross

Was watching the clip TooFastTim posted on the Ventoux Trial Classic 2011,(very good it was to) all the SWM's appeared to have Betor forks, are they so much better ?

This subject was raised some some three years ago and to be fair opinions shared. Given the time frame I wondered if these we still valid. I have a red and white Guanaco with the mazocchi set up. Whilst its alright, they do tend to be very soft even after changing and playing with the springs. I have a nice pair of late betors including yokes / tete de fourche and my French guru is trying to convince me to go down this route. Some mentioned on the previous thread that all the works bikes had married the Mazocchi yokes to betor forks and I have since seen this recently on a very nicely prepared Belgium bike of Michel Gossiaux, again his name was mentioned in the previou…

I have never seen an SWM in an Ahrma event here in the states. My question is are they legal and if not why? Thanks for the help. --Biff

(No, not that sort) Any information on the modifications that quite a few SWM's seem to sport ? Are they all home grown, or is someone making them. What are the advantages ? The following picture is from the "CampoCanavese2012" (thanks Mike) Ross (Dannilo Galeazzi's bike)

Just incase anyone is interested, I have been looking around for some non organic clutch plates for my 280 cc Rotax rebuild. Found some at Barnett Engineering which should fit the bill just nicely and have had the fact confirmed by them too. You can find them here.... http://www.barnettclutches.com/can-am.html Friction plates are #301-22-10001, $12.65 each. Steels are #410-37-047001, $6.52 each. Specify quantities. Shipping is extra. You can order on-line at www.barnettclutches or call order desk at 805-642-9435, M-Th, 8am-4pm, Pacific time. Parts are good in stock, the frictions are made with our Kevlar friction material, aluminum core. Steels are tem…

Hi all, has anyone tried cleaning up the acerbis tank with bead blasting or even dry ice blasting ?

Spotted this on ebay...apparantley one of Bernie Schreibers old bikes ! Bernies SWM