SWM
377 topics in this forum
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Before I get the hacksaw out does anyone have a diagram showing the location of the baffle plates on a 320 ? Have pushed a long screw driver through from where the silencer joins the middle box but cant find anything. The box has been previously welded and im wondering if one or both of the plates has been removed. The baffle tube is still present at the entry point. There is somthing in there rattling as you can hear it when the engine is running but shaking the box it doesn't rattle ?
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hey guys, been away for awhile. I need to find the jet sizes for my daughters swm tl125 phbl 22 carb? lost the pilot jet in the grass! Doh! Thanks in advance for any help/advice.
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I thought you SWM enthusiasts might enjoy a picture of my SWM project .The bike is a 1980 Tl 320 that was originally sold in England, imported to Califoria in the late 80's and found last year in a salvage yard in Montana. I have tried to replicate Bernie Schriebers last Factory TL320 before he started riding the Jumbo. My project incorporates all of the mods from the french Burgat article on this forum and everything I could see from the photos in Bernies' book "Observed trials". My only real change from the original factory bikes is a modified Pro Circuit Racing silencer that weighs about a fourth of what the original did. That and other weight reduction mods bring the …
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Just finished the istall on third SWM of OKO carb.The bikes were 2 1982 280s and a 1983 240. the 240 had a stock airbox and pipe and the inprovement was huge.bike pulls from idle to full revs with no flat spots.The 280s run tons better with no problems, one stock the other has a modified rear box.Also noticed after first trial the bike used less gas than before.I also am using 2 different size OKOs on one of my xc bikes.It has a 280 rotax motor and for the tight tracks i run a 30 mm carb and its a tractor .On more open tracks I install a 32 mm and it runs down 450 4 strokes.Have to thank Roger at MAVT.org for the carbs and tuning help.
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I did find this Tl 320 and have to get it tough I haven't finish my TL 125 yet. Look the frame number!! It is also in registration papers 0001. Is this the first one?
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Just back from a trial down in deepest France and was really impressed with an Swm out after having a make over. Was interested to learn that the headstock had been moved... swingarm lenthened and exhaust had been breathed over. Was really impressed with the way that it went I was told it was a 1982 280. Are these really an undervalued .., but overllooked alternative in the competative twinshock trials market. Don t know as in many cases, whether the above mods are really worth the hassle and cost and at the end of the day the bike still has to be ridden but I was very impressed with the way it went , I might even be tempted or are they an aquired taste....... Thank…
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Hi all. In the process of "trying" to remove the barrel for a re-bore. The four long studs that go right through to the crank case are solid. Haven't been touched for decades. I have been regularly spraying them with wd40 & duck oil but so far no movement. A friend has suggested a hot air gun, which I haven't bought yet, is this the best way ? Any other suggestions ? Thanks Ross
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Just incase anyone is interested, I have been looking around for some non organic clutch plates for my 280 cc Rotax rebuild. Found some at Barnett Engineering which should fit the bill just nicely and have had the fact confirmed by them too. You can find them here.... http://www.barnettclutches.com/can-am.html Friction plates are #301-22-10001, $12.65 each. Steels are #410-37-047001, $6.52 each. Specify quantities. Shipping is extra. You can order on-line at www.barnettclutches or call order desk at 805-642-9435, M-Th, 8am-4pm, Pacific time. Parts are good in stock, the frictions are made with our Kevlar friction material, aluminum core. Steels are tem…
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Could someone please tell me what this thread size should be, my Jumbo currently has an unsightly M12 x 1.5 hex head bolt and nut fitted which will only screw in about 10 mm before it meets resistance. It's been messed up by a previous owner as the thread in the head looks awful, I would just like to return the thread to what it was originally either by re-tapping or helicoiling and then fitting a suitable socket head bolt to block it off. A couple of pics attached, Cheers.
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Hi, has anybody seen this before. Is it an official mod or has someone been trying something out ?
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I got tired of waiting for replies from a couple of sources for trials electronics and was surprised to see a mail in my inbox after almost no waiting at all. The guys at Powerdynamo in Berlin are of a different kind, both answering mails and getting things done (!). After sending my old parts to them, I got a nice, big box a couple of weeks later, old parts in return and a new system for my bike. I run a simple battery total loss set-up for lights when needed, so my new system is ignition only. If you are interested, the system is now listed among Powerdynamo's other products, so you don't have to bother sending anything to Berlin (if you need power for your lights …
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Hello, I'm Xavi from Barcelona, I have a SWM 320TL NW from 1982, I just put a Climber motor and now I'm looking for an aluminum swingarm model 1983. Could you help me locate one?, I contacted Martin but a long time ago that you do not have any… Thanks a lot
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Spotted this on ebay...apparantley one of Bernie Schreibers old bikes ! Bernies SWM
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Hi guys, Picked this up at weekend as a winter project, runs ok but rough. ( sorry can't load the photo of the bike ) The question is, I went to check the points and the flywheel nut was hand tight. Took it off with the flywheel and it was really wet and oily at the rear of the flywheel. Began to delve in as you do ( only use to Bultacos ) and I was stopped by the large disc that is retained by three large screws. I can get it to rotate but not release, it seems to house a bearing on the crank, how do I get it off guys. And yes for you eagled eyed chaps, the woodruff key is mangled, I've no idea how it ran, it fired up first time. Many thanks.
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Well my 350 Jumbo is together and runs great! A few things popped up on the first ride so went back into my shop for some "updates" As it stands right now the bike has: 99 Sherco front forks and triples, Aprilia front wheel, back wheel, swingarm and brakes. I also went to a magura jack hydraulic clutch......what a HUGE improvement over stock!, aluminum plates for CNC footpegs, FMF powercore silencer. Motor has: 84mm piston, new connecting rod, new main bearings, all new trans bearings, modified reed cage with dual stage 2 petal reed and matched cases. Going to a 28mm PWK this week....
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....mine came with a rubber pad between engine and bashplate (sumpguard) but I can't find one shown in the parts book? Thanks as always.....she's up 'n running just waiting on few parts to finish....been an easy strip 'n rebuild thus far thanks to help from this site and Mr SWM Martin.
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My betor forks are making a loud bang when lifting the front end . I have stripped the forks down and see no problem any help would be appreciated
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http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=191050364270
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Having recently made a typical barn find, a ´81 TL320, the need for magnesium repair is very obvious. I have done it before and I have the equipment, but when looking at the transmission case I and other parts, I still hesitate. This is not the best castings I have seen and after a long life soaked in oil, it will take some hours of cleaning, blasting, degreasing, grinding and so on before I even order the rods and take my TIG welder out. For example, state of the damage on the transmission side include sveral cracks, holes and worn out threads to deal with, previously "fixed" with bad epoxy and thick paint several years ago, making the welding a process in several steps …
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- 8 replies
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I bought a 1980 SWM TL320 last year that was in need of a lot of work. I'm fixing it up to compete in vintage trials. I'm replacing the swingarm bushings and have had a heck of a time just removing one bushing. Anyone have a better way to remove and replace these bushings? I have a few different ideas but thought I would ask here for some advice. Thanks
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