SWM

I competed in my first trial last weekend on the TL320. I managed to make a grand mess of the event, and found that I killed the engine in nearly every section. Never had that problem in all my practice on level ground, but there was little level ground at the trial! A couple of the old timers suggested that I lower the gearing on the bike. Several people independently commented that the bike seemed to be geared rather high. Since my existing rear sprocket is looking well-worn, I suppose this is a good time to consider a gearing change. So what gear combinations work for those of you competing on TL320s?

Hi, afer I rebuilt my TL320s motor, gearchanging was a dream. It stated getting problematic going down the box especially from 2nd to 1st. Now it is also a pain going up the box from 1st to 2nd. The clutch isn't dragging so something with the pawl setup seems to have changed. Any ideas ? Phil

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DKwEawANLA&feature=channel&list=UL

Ordered some parts from Martin Matthews of Motoswm on Monday, arrived this morning. Thanks Martin

Do you have to be over 6' to ride a SWM ? Photo also courtesy of Ducman

Howdy again Gang! When I took my TL320 down to Moab last month, with a fresh change of the fork oil to ATF, I found that the seals leaked a great deal. I decided to change them, so I ordered a set of seals for 35mm Betor forks. They came as a set of four separate seals, apparently meant to be stacked on top of each other for a double-lip seal. Last night, I dismantled the forks and removed the old seals. The old seals were not stacked, they were a single seal on each side, each with a double lip inside. One fork leg was embossed with the words: "Honda F seal, 9125-273-000". So it would seem that someone had the fork legs machined to accept a Honda seal, though I suspect…

You guys have been a great source of help amazing me with your SWM knowledge and patience with a rookie like myself to the world of the Italian Speedies, but I have another favour to ask. I believe this TL320 pictured is a 1980....then met a guy yesterday into old twinshocks whom tells me from his memory that a 1980 SWM should be yellow with black frame (tick) but that the frame should have under engine frame tubes intact (ohh), SWM's loosing the lower under engine tubes in 1981...I should add the fella did say that 34 years on his memory could be wrong and that he owned a 1981 Gori, can any one help? I thought Gori's were always a year behind the SWM's so this one pict…

Hi all, I am replacing seals and bearings in my Jumbo engine and have a few questions: - does the gear box internals stay in the clutch side or front sprocket side of motor when split? - is heat needed on the main bearings to come away from the case? Thanks in advance,,

on may 6,2007 on the east coast of the US we are trying to get almost20 swm trials bikes in one spot. that many swms together at a trials hasn`t been seen since the early 80`s.i hope it doesn`t speed up the melting of the ice packs....johnnyb

My old friends riding veteran mx and enduro on international level are using the Spanish developed HFS parts for their front forks with very good results. If you look at their web (www.suspensionhfs.com/en) there are some trials kits, too. Has anyone tried them out?

Any good on fantic 240?

Meant to pass this on earlier. Did a classic trial last weekend and one of the guys who stopped for a chat about Speedy, had two SWM TL320's from new, bought from kershaws in Essex. He told me that back the in day he used clutch springs from a Honda MT50 moped....was a common mod' back then? Just thought I'd throw that into the SWM melting pot of 'clutch fixes'.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SWM-Twinshock-Trials-TL320-/331073166800?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item4d157f9dd0

Any one any ideas how to wire up the horn electrics on a 320TL 1980's. I have the original horn and there are two spare wires available on the loom. These are coloured yellow and yellow with black stripe. What I really need to know is are these two wires connected directly to the horn or is one of them connected via a switch to earth. Any help appreciated. John

Pulled the clutch cover off my Rotax 240 motor (tucked into an Armstrong/Can-Am frame, so thanks for allowing me into the SWM family!) due to the clutch sticking, even after warm. The prior owner ran some pretty thick gear oil, and the motor sat many years unloved. I prefer ATF, but things are still sticky. Discovered five friction plates and six steel plates. Should there be another friction plate? I am in the process of cleaning off the gaps in the plates, as I found some good material on this procedure elsewhere. I've attached the pdf. Appreciate any and all help. Thanks! Clutch_Fix-1.pdf

Hello I hads some problems getting the front axle off my SWM TL.NW. I just wanted to inspect the front brake as I want to ho to the alpes with the bike and when going downhill good brakes are a must. I could not get out the axle as the speedo drive did not move anywhere, all bolts and nuts where removed! It ended like this that I jacked up the bike really high and pulled the hole front end out (with the stanchions!). This worked very well and I could dismantle the front rear. But agian did not had any possibilitiy to remove the speedo drive, I discoverd (I could not measure that the axle has a notch! and the speedo sits in this notch, so the axle must be made out of …

I need a spark arrestor to ride in all the good places nearby. Every add-on spark arrestor I could find on the market would require me to hack up my silencer, so I decided to replace it instead. At least this way, I can preserve the original silencer, should I ever decide to restore the bike. This monstrosity would look right at home on a modern trials bike, but it sure looks out of place here. Sadly, it's also a bit louder, though not oppressively so. I was hoping it would be quieter. Oddly, the bike SOUNDS like a modern trials bike now.

I have trawled through the SWM threads and have come up with the following; Timing 2.6/2.8 BTDC Points Gap - 0.4mm Plug Gap - ? Help ! A few other questions - How do you adjust the timing, do you need to slip the magneto off and move the back plate and refit the magneto and check. Are there any timing marks to point the strobe at ? Ours seems to have some cold chisel marks on the backplate ! How do you connect an external condensor ? The only wiring diagrams I have found are in Italian and a bit difficult to read the colours etc. Finally, not getting any e-mail replies from Martin Matthews. Is he on holiday ? Many Thanks.

Hi, can anyone confirm the ignition settings I have found: 2,8 mm before TDC (or 21° ??) points gap 0,45 mm plug gap 0,25 mm If anone has more details I´´ll be glad.

Hello New Friends! I am hoping someone can answer some q's for me.. I bought a 320 with no spark. they had the wrong stator coil hooked up to the points first off so I changed it. have spent about 5 hrs so far and not sure about afew things. First. the points are new, I am using a new condenser and have tried 2 coils. I found a thread someone posted about hooking 2 D size batteries together to get 3volts to test with and I was able to get spark but found that the coil will make spark with voltage applied to it. I also was able to get spark from the coil through the points while hand turning the flywheel a few times, thought I…