OSSA

As it say. I’ve wear in a 2011 linkage. Not stripped nothing yet but what are my options? Top tips on ripping it all apart? Can I use bearings instead of bushes? Am I likely to need pins etc? Do these parts even exist now? If worst comes to the worst, I might see if I can get all the parts re made and to use bearings and seals instead.

I'm about to undertake a full restoration of a Ossa Mar 250 1972 mk1 and I'm needing the paint codes for the white and green if anyone has them please.

Hi, hopefully someone can help. My 2012 factory gearbox has just decided to lock up. After following the instructions I can find on the net I've removed the 5 bolts, sprocket and gear lever but it still feels solid when tapping the shaft. I don't want to tap harder in case there's something I'm missing. Any ideas.

Hi TC OSSA riders, Went out Saturday for quick praccy with son on TR280 all good nice and smooth power, went great, rode trial Sunday three quarters of way through, engine got very noisy, finished ok. Fired up when back, noisy, tried later today, (Monday) noisy! went round my mechanic to ask about it, seemed a lot quieter?? He said sounds good, i rode it, but not right, i can tell!! let him have a ride he agreed, says could be loose crank end nut?? anyone shed any light on this? it seems sort of rough, not as smooth as it was, course feeling?? Never felt like it would stall before, but now does?? Ideas?? Ian

Hi just seeing if anyone can help I have recently got an ossa that is in bits and I am not 100% sure that the model is what I think it is. I have matching frame and engine numbers but when I have looked at a full list of ossa numbers they don't seem to be on there. I am thinking its a verde frame number starts with B-70.

I first will say I appreciate the experience and knowledge here. I grew up riding when these machines were being made, but never considered them as I was a kid growing up racing MX when the Japanese bikes arrived and became dominant. Fast forward to 2016, I wanted a trials bike. Many reasons why. My good friend and riding buddy purchased a 72 MAR about a year ago that was supposedly very nice. He learned it was good but lacking in the fine details and he does not have or own junk. A few weeks ago, knowing he needed some original parts, I noticed another MAR on a Facebook group that was for sale reasonably inexpensive. He acquired it. So he had plans to build a …

Any tip to remove torx screw from rear wheel shaft assy? It is 2012 280i. Please give me any idea.

I went for a first ride on my restored Ossa MAR today and experienced a few issues I have put down to carb. The AMAl is the original from 1973 so I figure it has probably seen better days. All I know is that despite new jets and refurb kit the bike has no zip making climbing banks almost impossible. I'm thinking therefore of changing carbs to a Mikuni. I appreciate that this one has been done to death but...The general concensus seems to be a 150 main and 35 pilot on a VM26 Mikuni but this is only part of the story. The Needle and Jet needle are very important also. The standard VM26 comes with a O-0 needle Jet and a 4J13 Jet needle. For those who have fitted a VM26…

My '74 Mar is really, really difficult to start from cold. Lots of kicking, plug heating and tickling it eventually fires and runs. There's no 'almost starting' - the penultimate kick is no different from the previous 20 (or 30). When it's warm it runs and ticks over fine and will re-start first time but leave it a few hours, let alone days, I'm back thinking of selling ! Current plug is an NGK BP5ES Any ideas ?

Hi, I have a 2012 TR280i bought used last year. The bike ran very good and started in the 1st or 2nd kick every time until recently. We were riding in our regular spot and after a big rev the motor died. We thought it ran out of gas but after topping it off (it did take a full tank so maybe it did run out) it would not start. It's getting spark and the fuel pump is working as it will spit out gas from the fuel line when kicked. i figure the next thing to check is the injector but it seems to be impossible to get to with our removing the tank and radiator. I say this because the ECU is wedged in between the frame and injector and there seems to be no way to get …

On my original 2014 Explorer (sold a couple years ago) I broke the suspension linkage a couple of times. I bought some Titanium ones and they were great (with lube fittings). But the company no longer makes them. I suspect they didn’t sell very many at all. Since I like learning things and have been working on Fusion (3D CAD) I have been designing a new linkage. I am basing off 2015 links (larger main link) but going to change to needle bearings in the middle of the link, with lubrication passages. The other ones would be a lot more difficult to change from the bushings, but I can still put lube passages. I have 3D printed the parts so I can test fit and make…

I've rebuilt the motor and was surprised to see such a large counter weight / flywheel on the cush drive. My 1972 Mar 250 has no counter weight. Any one experimented with removing or reducing this extra weight? Looking at it it almost strikes me that it's a factory add on for those who wanted to tame the bike in the day? bike runs fine, just looking to put a bit of snap into it. this seems to be an obvious but need to get a little insight first. cheers

Hi everyone, Im on rebuilding my 1972 mar and im needing advice on oil types and amounts. I've replaced the fork seals and I need to know what type of fork oil to use and how much to put in each leg? Also Id like to change the gear oil does anyone know what oil to use and how much to put in? Thanks Graham.

I'm after a 2013 Seat and Rear Mud Guard, anyone know where I can order one from? Also interested in the air filter/wiring kit which is in the special parts catalogue.

friends of mine, also brought the new OSSA members ! POWERFUL ! awesome BIKE ! and also my 2012 standard bike with LSS excellent ! kisses OSSA ...... Red Bull China No. 1 trial rider geng jie testing my 2012 factory R, after tested giving ' thumb up ' !

Hi, I recently bought a 2011 tr280i. The bike looks in good condition but seems to shift into gear by itself while the engine is running. So I'm trying to pull the gearbox out to inspect. I got the five bolts out and have it in gear but it just doesn't seem to move with a tap on the output shaft. It seems like the clutch shaft is jammed somehow. It doesn't have a clutch fixer nut because it's 2011 so I really need some advice of how to remove it. Cheers.

It seems 2014 is the year of Ossa! Future Trial Team have announced a switch from Montesa to Ossa. This follows Top Trial Team switching from Beta to Ossa.

I found a barn fresh MAR with mostly original equipment and under 1250k fresh motor. It's worthy of a full restoration but I was looking for a cheap rider so I am bagging/boxing all the nice original bits and going to ride a season or two before doing the restoration. It's got spark, compression and carb is clean. It had no brakes or fuel tank so I hasn't been started. Rare find in these parts by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Rare find in these parts by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr The bike had been stored with ethanol fuel and the tank was mush. I am using Caswell epoxy liner/ shell to remediate but not sure if it will work, assuming it will. I have already r…

Hi, which is the most recommended plug for 280, bp5es in at mo. Any ones which make it better? And start a bit easier....

Any idea on how to pull the headlight out. Looks like 2 clips on each side and it'll slide out, but am concerned with snapping the clips and obviously never finding a replacement. Any hints, tips or tricks? When changing my AAA battery behind the headlight in that black box, I inadvertently pulled a little too hard, and the tiny little frail wires that connect the headlight pulled loose. Need to get in there with a soldering iron.