Suzuki/Beamish

I have the US silver engine model. Once I got this project running, I noticed a few things: 1.Bike smokes quite a bit, even at 60:1 mix of MC1. 2.Lots of engine noise. I used some rubber blocks between the head fins. Helped a little. 3.Bike took a lot of warm up time before I could shut off the choke. When I'd try to soon, it just wanted to die. I figured maybe the old carb was bad, so I got a new OKO from Mid Atlantic Trials. Same place I got my 199 carb. Bike still starts second kick and is acting the same. I pulled the head when I first got the bike and found a bad head gasket - replaced it. Piston was shiny new, but I didn't pull the cylinder to check …

hello, recently purchased a tatty but rideable beamish suzuki 250, have just removed the rear wheel to replace the rear sprocket and noticed that the cush drive part has been welded to the hub and also one of the wheel spacers is a piece of plastic pipe ! I am sure that the plastic spacer is a bodge but does anybody know if the welded up cush drive is a proper beamish modification or another bodge {the welding is good quality which is unusual for a lash up} Also the wrong front wheel is fitted {it has a 7 inch drum which would be great for road racing but is a bit heavy for trials} does anybody know if the correct wheel is the same as any other suzuki models {i was …

Out for a spot of Practice at Dudwood on Sunday on the Beamish 250 have a great time and learnt a few things

As this is the next running maintainence job I need to do (to sort a slow oil leak) I am wondering if anyone who had done one before can shed light on the following: 1) I understand that it must be done with the selector shaft removed as you can not prise it out and replace the new one over the selector shaft 2) In order to withdrawal the selector shaft, I believe the clutch basket needs to come off? Is this splined or tapered and is it easy to get off, or like the montesa, a real pig that needs a heavy duty puller? 3) When reassembling is their any line up marks that need to be paid attention to to ensure all gears select OK thanks Rob

Hi all Does anyone on here have my first bike. 1979 Beamish Suzuki RL250 Reg No. DKY 335V. It would be nice to know what happened to it. Thank you Chris

Hi All, Can anyone please help me with information regarding the re-assembly of a Beamish Suzuki (black engine) gearbox? If someone has some good pictures of the re-assembly order of the components that are known to be correct that will be a great help. It’s been some years since I took it apart so I have no memory of any details regarding re-assembly. I had taken many pictures but I’m still not confident that the position of some components is correct. I have noticed the 4th gear thrust washer is in a different location to the drawing in the work shop manual, mine was directly behind the 4th gear drive circlip. Also I can’t tell the correct orientation o…

Hi all, I have a silver engine RL250 thats using a 72 mm Wiesco piston and now needs a new little end bearing. I became all the Wiesco numbers for Piston Rings piston pin and clips from the last owner but not for the small end baering. Wiesco don´t seem to have any idea what bearing is needed so I thought I´d give it a try here :-)

I am looking for parts to my old RL250 and found a website www.rl250.com however they do not answer their phone, nor do they respond to email. Anyone know if they are still in business?

Hello, Im restoring a silver engine rl250 for me brother in law. It's a silver engine 74? He bought a lighting kit for it but the kit did not have a stator. Will a ts250 stator winding work with the rl250? How about coils to run the cdi? Are those the same as the ts250? regards, redbug2

Hi all, well I took the plunge and now own a 1974 RL250. So I have a few questions that the forum may be able to help with. First I have ridden and raced almost everything since 1967. I can wrench and I'm not afraid to fab up goddies when needed. So questions 1. I have an absolutely shot petcock so unless it's an only option I don't want to rebuild it. Pingle makes a good one, but not sure they make one that fits, so sources would be great. 2. The inside of the tank is lined (well sort of lined if you mean some really nasty crap peeling off everywhere) so what are my options. Tank? How to remove the old liner mess, or send off for repairs? I'm just getting into …

Can anyone advise the best gearbox oil/fluid for the RL250 Beamish? I've seen modern 80W transmission oil recommended, as well as ATF. If ATF, what specification, Dexron 3, or something more advanced? Thanks in advance.

Does any one know where to get bushes for the swinging arm, its the metal elastic type.I am thinking that when the frames were made beamish used what was available like off a car suspension.

What sprocket sizes would you recommend for trials? My bike has 11x43 fitted, but it feels a bit too quick for me in first gear at its lowest revs... I'd like the bike to go slower when things are getting difficult. I'm a complete novice on a trials bike.

Hi all Mu query is not related to a trials bike but I am sure someone out there can help. I have just bought an old 82 model TS 185 to get my young grandson used to riding bikes. The clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced. My problem is that I have undone all screws holding the cover on but it won't budge!!! Something else is preventing me from removing it. Any ideas?? I am sure one of you people have pulled one of these bikes apart before. Any help much appreciated. Thanks

hi everyone i now have my beamish 325, i got her started today. she started 3rd kick . now for the questions, the petrol tank(alloy) has a few dents in it, what would be the best way to remove them? also the threded collar that attaches the fuel tap to the tank is knackered, it looks to me to be a replacement tap job. any ideas where i can get a second hand one? thanks Ben

Hi Guys, My Dad has his new toy - a nice 1981 RL325 Beamish. It currently runs an RL250 tank, and while it looks nice, its just not right. Is there anyone out there who has or makes the larger RL3235 Alloy tank. cheers, Ben

where can i get some swingarm bushes for my beamish, and also a spindle? cheers Ben

Hi, I have just acquired a 1968 Bearcat which is the ideal starting point to build a Gaunt replica! Being the latest model of the Bearcat it has the B100 frame with the TC120 dual range motor it’s perfect for the job! But I have a number of questions... Forks, These should be from the Invader 200 are they still 30mm? And looking at photos they must be a bit longer if so how much? If I can’t find any Invader forks I’ll find something suitable that looks right While we are at the front did Peter alter the head angle? Hubs These look to be smaller than the B100 or Bearcat hubs, possibly A100 or A50? Swinging Arm I know it’s about an inch longer but …

In earlier topics some mentioned relining brake shoes, that worked. Can enybody tell me what the new lining material was? Cheers Miked

Hi all, i have a 1981 black engine model and am upgrading it a bit, new shocks, footrests, chain and sprockets etc. I want to get rid of the original 'Cow horn' bars. They have a massive rise on them, my question is what sort of rise should i go for on some renthals. I am tall at 6,3... any advice greatfully accepted and see you at fort william on Friday if you are there!! Dan