dadof2

Need to bed pads in. Give disc a good scuffing with coarse aluminium oxide paper - at right angles to wear marks.

Oh! the joys of recalcitrant hydraulics. It is probably air in system or it could be your caliper pistons moving back and forth by flexing the seals rather than sliding through them, try to look to see if this is the case. Tilt the bars so the hose slopes up all the way to the master cylinder. gently work the brake lever and see if little bubbles rise from the fill port in the master cylinder. Sometimes holding the lever back to the bars and pouring boiling water over caliper helps.

Darlington, Richmond, http://www.castlesidetrials.co.uk/

Time after time this topic comes up, surely about time it had its own section. There is no universally right or wrong ratio, but a lot of untruths are posted. Yamaha got it about right when they developed a system that gave 100:1 at no load / idle RPM and 20:1 at high load / high revs. They went even better when they lubed the mains with one type of oil and the piston with another type.

http://www.westmorlandmotorclub.com/events.html Take a look at the above, 40 sections, 10 to 15 marks off class winners and highest score about 130. Just about spot on, a good challenge but not too severe.

Just shows why you should register your bike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-NEW-2017-GAS-GAS-TXT-300-RACING-ORDERS-TAKEN-HERE-NOW-/231856960842?hash=item35fbc0754a:g:OOAAAOSwl-FXNaAx

"I would have a look back over all the previous times this issues has been raised. I was under the impression that the sport of motorcycles trials was about reliability, not stopping and not putting your feet down. Now the number of posters suggesting ever less amounts of oil in the fuel makes me wonder if we should have a separate branch of the sport, the aim of which is to see who can run the least oil in fuel ratio before the bike seizes." The above was posted some time ago. I run 50cc oil per liter fuel for MX and 30cc oil per liter fuel for Trials. Never have a problem with oiling up or exhaust clogging. If your bike has the problems you describe at manufacturers ration there is something wrong, probably carburation too rich

http://www.motogp.com/en/news/2016/05/21/resurgent-rossi-fights-back-with-sensational-pole/201591 What do you make of this Colin?

It may be the stator, then again it may be something (more expensive) else. If I was selling a bike I would always get it running first unless I was offering it very cheap, just to get rid.

I can't remember the thread but when the special pug was installed it was beneath the surface of the alloy, not protruding at all. The alloy used to be countersunk by about 1 to 2 mm.

Probably full caliper service needed, get someone experience to help or post for mre advice

Sump plug crack was well known Ossa Mar problem. Too exposed and gets hit on rocks. Best solution was to get a special pug made out of an allen bolt head by threading it, leaving just a trace of a "head" then fitting it with Loctite or PTFE tape. If the detent aligning solution does not work the engagement dogs or their mating holes on the gears are probably worn. If they are and you can't get new gears you can sort them with a dremel and diamond file.

What actually counts is not so much the compression [ratio] as the mean effective pressure (MEP). The easiest and proven way of varying the MEP is by varying the ignition timing and the height and / or profile of the upper part of the exhaust port (power valve) The map switches on most trials bikes work by varying the ignition timing, but an even greater variation in engine characteristics could be achieved with an exhaust valve, but at the expense of added complexity and costs.

YES

Look back over the Gasgas forum.

If its standard OBDII which there is no good reason why it should not be then: P tells you it is an engine or transmission fault 1 (the first 1) tells you it is a manufacturer specific code 6 tells you its computer output circuit 11 tells you it the camshaft position sensor but since your Ossa does not have a camshaft and the first 1 tells you it is a manufacturer specific code you will need a list of Kokusan Denki codes (for early ossas) or maybe Mahle codes for later ossas? At a guess drive circuit will refer to the fuel pump or fuel injector, there is not as far as I know any other driven circuits on an Ossa.

I would get them well wrapped up. My kids have had a number of broken bones and stitches (nothing to do with trials or motorcycles). There is the pain and time off school, the time and inconvenience to the parents and the cost to the NHS, Definitely a case of prevention is better than cure IMHO.

Try http://www.talon-eng.co.uk/

You can usually get a few more years out of a worn clutch by putting in an extra friction or plain plate.

Lets hope VRs riding is more consistent than my typing!

Common causes of oil coming out of Gearbox breather are: Overfilling - oil is too high up the gears and gets churned into a foam which greatly increases its volume. This is supposed to result in insufficient lubrication and gearbox damage but I have never seen conclusive evidence of that on a trials bike gearbox. Leak from crankcase, either poor gasket joint between crankcases or a porous casting. On Gasgas pro I think using the wrong (undrilled) screw to hold the clutch on can also cause it.

Giacomo Agostini's late 1960s and early 1970s MV Augustas. Mike Hailwood's 1967 Honda 250cc Honda 6.

Come on then Dabster, exactly what did I post that was wrong? The reason I pasted a link to the manual is because its not just the float height that is important, its where the measurement is from and the orientation of the carb when its measured.

I have used Castrol Magnatec (10w-40) in loads of bikes on and off road from 50 to 1100cc and never had a clutch slip problem because of it