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build quality and trials bikes don't really go hand in hand unless you get a 4rt, that should set hares running!
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I use these, they are good and strong.
http://www.trialcast.co.uk/product.php?id_product=38
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they all had the problem. I replaced 2 on 2008 bikes.
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it depends on what your doing, 2nd gear full throttle splats 290, normal everyday trials 250.
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consider strongly a 250, any brand.
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its a drain bolt if its got a coper washer. either water or oil.
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general rule of thumb is get the bike to normal operation temperature, set the tickover sligtly higher than normal, say 1500 rpm max, then slowly screw in the air screw until the engine starts to slow, then screw out again and the revs should rise, continue screwing out slowly as the revs are rising, eventualy they wil start to drop again, screw back in to the point where the revs were at maximum and re set your, tickover.
Things to remember.
1. its cold at the moment, you bike will be running leaner than normal.
2. clean the air filter before doing this set up.
3. use a new spark plug.
4. as the weather warms up you WILL need to do this again.
5. this presumes that all other mechanical aspects of your bike are good.
6. if the procedure doesn't work it might be that you have the wrong size pilot jet in.
using this method i have set up more rev3's than i can shake a stick at, i'm sure the SY uses the same carb.
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I spoke to a guy from the Bradford club in the pub on Friday night , he mentioned someone was filming their trial this weekend. Hope it went well guys.
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both the company's you mentioned are brokers and don't actually insure your bike (an insurance company does.)
Do both company's give you the same package , excess etc? (no)
its a bit like saying all trials bikes are exactly the same, just the price differs.
If you went to but a new telly, and found one slightly cheaper, would you slag of the other company for trying to sell it for more?
P.S. not biased in the slightest, but wait until you have to claim.
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before going much further you need to get someone in the know to have a look at these cases. unless they are broken through a machined face you can do a hell of a lot of repairs using moly metal. where about in the country are you?
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He shoots, and he Scores, !!!! 2.0mm squish clearence? you could get in that and measure it with a ruler. !
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start again, take the barrel off, make sure the ring gaps are on the pins and rebuild again, use a new head gasket or O rings (cant remember which your bike has) and a new base gasket (correct thickness). If you hav'nt changed anything else in the re-build the issue has to be in what you've done first time around.
let us know what happens
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DO lube the throttle cable with WD40 or GT85, most of it evaporates leaving only a fine covering of silicone or PTFE or some such substance., nowt to stick to.
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i thought a bike had to have a plate on its declaring it was under 33bhp to be ridden by a learner?
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I bet you bars are scored as well. only way to make it feel new is to replace parts, bars throttle tube, throttle cable and even in extreme circumstances the carb slide as well.
One great trick is to get a cable oiler Link below. just use WD40 or GT85 and plenty of it, it really makes a difference to the throttle.
I don't use any lube between the throttle and the bars, absolutely dry.use oil and it gets dirt in and becomes grinding paste. Just was it out with water, dry and replace.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIKE-IT-MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-MOTO-X-MX-DUAL-CABLE-LUBRICATOR-CLAMP-OILER-TOOL-/230706729096?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35b7315088&_uhb=1
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just cut through the frame and count the rings............or is that just trees I forget.
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no, its a case split i'm afraid. that being said its easy, it takes about 2.5 hours to split the motor and replace mains and seals. to blow the budget stick a piston and rings in at the same time.
Enjoy !
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http://www.wetherbymc.co.uk/
has anybody seen wetherbys website? they really are letting standards slip
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reed valves.
jetting.
gearing.
bar position.
short levers.
slow throttle.
rear shock.
fork re-build.
new tyres.
quality chain.
clutch modification.
ATF.
stainless wheel bearings.
lighter exhaust.
last but not least, ignore the above and buy a new bike.
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just seen the forecast for Saturday nights trial, wet, so its gonna be real slippy, with lightning !
just put new tyre on for grip, now i hope its just insulated!
Great , a huge haul of 5's and electrocuted into the bargain........cant wait!
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I have seen it happen to rev3's all the time. centre spacer really soft with hardly any face.
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easiest way to fix is go to a proper motorcycle shop and get Screen to fairing rubber inserts, drill out airbox push in hole and screw up.
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stick a WR Yamaha rekluse, semi automatic (spelling?) clutch on it, and put the rear brake on the left bar.
always fancied having a go like that but never dared spend the money !
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cos they're crap, thats why,.
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2010 evo on original bearings (loads of use) NEVER pressure wash. remove dust covers and re-pack 3-4- times a year.
overtightening will reduce life because you will crush the centre spacer and place side load on the bearing and overheating it.
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