paul w

welcome, ridden any trials yet?

spleen vented, i now feel much better having had a moan.......

might sound daft but have you tried removing the arms cleaning with solvent and using silicon on the arms to stop the movement? not tried it on an EVO but works in other applications.

were the DT range not 6 volt? would this matter?

i had one, it fell apart.

not sure but as a young lad i did similar and i had got the piston in the wrong way round.

might be worth checking the ignition timing, if its out you usually need different carb settings to make it tick over properly, this may also cause kick back when starting. I dont know what the settings should be but a call to gasgas uk will get them.

it really depends on how you use the bike, its a splash feed anyway so its usually only small particals of gears and clutch deposits that get suspended in the oil. If your only using for light club trials easily 20 rides.

its a funny thing but the same happened to me a bit back and i couldnt work out what was going on, i eventually realised that it wasnt the chassis, but the way the power comes on. I am so used to riding beta's with huge flywheel weight compared to others that as i feed the power on the rear tried to spin faster than on my bike, giving the illusion of lack of grip (actually it was grip on the beta, what am i talking about)

are you sure its just not the tyre gripping better in the dry?

have you had the gear clusters apart? have you removed the selector forks from the rods? it sounds like its something you have mis-assembeled. download the parts catalogue from the beta site, they have expolded diagrams of the gears so you can check if you have everthing in the right order.

to be fair, how it looks is not usually my first thought when i land on my head. you could always go back to the good old days of a bobble hat, the bigger the bobble the greater the protection.

what about the riding? how did you get on?

If its getting on a bit and has small wheels its more likely to be a tyre that got a bit mis-shaped. On the Axles with the rubber bush check the suspension arms (the bit the wheel bolts to) the can rust and give way. (i know from experience)

I cant even imagine what it must be like - my thoughts are with racing buddys that live in Japan.

what about two foot brakes one on either side?

Just seen this on the West Leeds site

spill the beans then !

i know from bitter experience how this feels, my method 1. pick bike up, swear. 2. turn fuel off , swear some more. 3. lay bike over as far as you can (on side if possible)(to drain the carb) 4. pick bike upright, two or three kicks with the throttle wide open. 5. shut throttle and kick again, 9 time out of 10 it will fire up, turn fuel back on and attempt next section. 6. repeat 10 time a lap for 4 laps, then utter the immortal "bit tricky today".

Hi and welcome, we go so swainy when there no trials on in the area, as long as the weather is ok, theres nearly always someone up there, always approacable, just go along and chat to some other riders. Just bear in mind that theres not a lot of grip at this time of year if its wet! Why not come along to the novice and beginners Yeadon & Guisley trial at deer park this weekend, that will give you some idea of what level you need to be practicing at. Cheers Paul

anyone reading this post ever had a piston or rings fail on a modern bike?

crikey.....its all getting a little complicated for me.

info for your other forum. when converting a road 600 into a race bike you normally fit longer 1st and 2nd gears and shorter 6th possible even 5th (albeit its a few years scince i built one) you can then gear for the track on the sprockets. Some tracks you geared for 6 gears some for 5. back in the TZ250 days you had cassete gear boxes with differnt ratios for several gears. (sounds difficult but you could swap gears in about 30 mins) This is why i like trials, give the bike a good wash when you get home, a couple of hours tinkering in the garage through the week and your good to go.

theDBF, on your track day bike you could quite easily come down 2 on the front and up 2 on the rear. This normally meant that 1st was useless, but you got to use 4th 5th and maybe even snatch 6th at a push. the general idea was that you kept the motor spinning and every gear change was nearly into maximum power. Thats what you want from a track day bike. Same thing applies on a trials bike, but remember, your rarely on full throttle (or even half) This means that if you do accidentally grab a huge handfull of throttle, it isnt going to accelerate too fast, more revs less speed. I cant remeber what bike youve got? are you trying to back off the power or is this just a hypothetical question? Cheers Paul

Tone, why are you splitting the cases? is there play or noise from the main bearing big end? crank case seals are changed from the "outside" with no need to split the cases. If you do have to split them, yes all the clutch and other gubbins has to come off, and the flywheel weight from the end of the crank. once you have all the outer clutter off its best to try and keep all the gears and crank in the left hand case. just support the engine by holding the right hand case where the barrel should mount and lightly tap the crank end and the end of the output shaft with a copper mallet. the cases should split with ease like this. sounds a bit crude but i havent missed yet with this method. let un know how you get on cheers paul.