hgas

Didn’t see that coming! So the real question now is who goes where , gasgas fresh with ktm money might have a bigger budget to snag a top 5 rider , casalez and dabill are both at the end of there 2 year deals ,casalez number one gg rider maybe and dabill back to vertigo ?

Thanks for the replies guys I think I’ve solved it , the damper rod had unscrewed itself from the top cap of the fork so basically the damper was just sat in there doing nothing,I threaded it back on and tightened the lock nut underneath then collapsed it and refilled it , seems a lot better now ?

One side is weeping slightly but nothing major , could it be just an issue of not enough oil ? I followed the guideline to collapse the fork and fill enough to leave an air gap so maybe I’ll just have to repeat the process ?

Changed my front fork seals a few months back , they seemed ok at first /a little on the soft side however I’ve ridden a couple of times since and the forks have gone softer and softer and now they are very springy and bottom out after a wheelie , I used belray oil as reccomended , anyone know where I’ve gone wrong?

If it starts easier when it’s been on it’s side then it sounds like a float bowl problem ,is it leaking petrol out of any of the over flow pipes when you turn the petrol tap on? take the carb apart again and check the pin is properly in place which the 2 floats pivot on , also check the jet under neath the floats is opening and closing properly when you lift the floats up by hand , sometimes it gets abit gungy in there and can cause the floats to stick open and make the bike run like a pig

It doesn’t neccesarily mean that the bikes been well used , this is a big problem with betas , I’ve seen 2018 models that haven’t done a lot and this has started happening , look for other signs of usage, check underneath the sump guard see what that’s like , make sure you listen to the bike for any rattles or knocks .also have a good look at the front pipe you’ll know if it’s been well ridden if it’s covered in dents and scratches as this is a tell tale sign on the evos, good luck !

So it looks like this year we have no live qualifying ,no live sections via jitsie ,no 26 minute highlight videos on YouTube available a couple of days after the events and now I’ve just noticed the past 2 years have been deleted from YouTube aswell, what are the fim trying to achieve??video coverage has been excellent and now we’ve got nothing ,very poor

i Would of thought there would of been some sort of announcement by now ??maybe he is taking a year out,I hope not

Right who’s your top 3 this year then? A lot of hype over mr lampkin this year , loads of videos floating around about his prep and stuff and he’s looking real sharp , after dabills cruel luck last year I think he will be very hungry for the win , who else could be in the mix , my top 3 is lampkin pushed close by dabill and then long shot a top national lad maybe dan Thorpe /Richard Sadler

I’ve just rebuilt my front forks with new fork seals , I’m now finding the forks very soft they don’t bottom out but they’re not far off ,I’ve used belray 7.5 and I followed the guide of 60 ml air gap in the damper side and 120 spring side , my question is can I just unscrew the top caps and add more oil to stiffen them up?

Thanks for your help everyone problem now solved , the thread was damaged right at the start of the thread that’s why it wouldn’t go in ,re tapped it and went straight back in , its an18mm tap with a 1.5mm pitch if anyone needs the info ?

I had exactly the same problem yesterday I even rang lampkins and they said it should just pull out , in the end I got a really small screw driver and prized it down the side of the bush then got a set of pointy nose pliers and yanked it out , took a lot of force though

Hi yes thats what I meant by the other side I’ve tried it without the wheel and in from the disc side and it was still tight at the end of the thread , I’m beginning to think it needs re tapping I just can’t see any other reason why it’s so hard to screw in

It was tight coming out when it unthreaded instead of just winding all the way it it tried to push the forks apart (the mudguard and brace where taken off)but I noticed fairly quickly and just tapped it through , the spindle threads into the fork leg from the other way fine so I know the threads ok as I was worried it had cross threaded

This is as far as I can get it in before it goes tight , any ideas anyone?

Thanks for that pindie !what I mean is Ivan get the spindle through the wheel and in to the opposite fork leg but then it gets very tight towards the end of the thread I can’t physically turn it any more and I’ve got about 35mm of the spindle still sticking out of the fork leg , the only thing I can think is that my spindle is bent but it looks fine ?

Right need a bit of urgent help , first problem is I’ve just put forks back together after changing the seals , left fork with the spring in is fine but the right fork with the damper seems to push down really easily and takes ages to come back up?? Next problem is the front spindle is really hard to get back in it goes through the wheel ok but after that it’s mega tight to thread in feels like I’m forcing something? Fork leg pinch bolts are wound right off, help please!?

Just serviced my forks Can someone tell me how much fork oil goes in each fork ?

Fork seals have gone on my 2016 evo, how big of a job is it to change them anyone had a go? Some step by step tips would be great and also how much fork oil in each leg?

It looks to me like your kickstart is fouling on the big exhaust cover that you’ve got fitted , have you tried it with the cover removed?

Is there a flywheel weight fitted as standard on earlier models ? I’ve got a 2016 300 ?

Thanks for your help everyone you’ve definitely put my mind at ease I can just get on it and enjoy it now , one thing I will say is I stripped the bike down last weekend and was very impressed at how the beta is put together , very solid and no flimsy bits

Ok so it sounds like it should be ok , the bike isn’t running as well as it should do I’m going to give it a bit of a strip down make sure the carb is all clean and then drain the oil and put some decent oil in , I’ve asked on another thread but does anyone know optimum jetting sizes for the 300 ?

Just picked up a 2016 300 evo I’ve heard stories of the main bearings going , any idea how much use or life they’ve got before they give up , there’s definitely a bit of a ‘whirring ‘ sound coming from the engine which I’m told is a sign of them on their way out but the bike I’ve bought is in very condition and not had hard use can anyone shed some light on it ?

Ok thanks for that chaps ! Next questions , the bike is a standard 2016 300 evo , I’ve noticed it’s ‘running on’ abit , do they come with a flywheel weight fitted as standard and can it be removed?also what jetting are people running ? I think the carb needs a good sort out to get it running better