s.e.lucas

You'll need the HRC software. The setting tool (someone made one on thumpertalk http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1071987-10-pgm-fi-hrc-tuner-tool/).http://www.montesa4rt.nl/ has maps for above 1000m and 1500m if you want a starting point. Some models came without programmable throttle bodies but I don't know which ones. If you post the number on the side of the tb then someone might be able to tell you. It will be something like xxxxx-NN4-xxx.

I know Future and Mitani both have them but not sure about who in the UK does. I bought the cd from Future. They came with my bike but lost mine Here's one someone made on thumertalk: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1071987-10-pgm-fi-hrc-tuner-tool/

https://www.facebook.com/49989519501/videos/10154520996024502/

You can get the cables and cd from a few places. There are plenty of maps on the internet but changing settings is easy also. The cables plug into the fuel pump plug, the red plug in the boot, and connect to a car battery and a computer. Simple to do and takes no time at all.

You have. You're discussing FI with someone who thinks cable brakes are better than hydraulics.

https://www.youtube.com/user/shizenyama https://www.youtube.com/user/sumimitumaru

I don't think Honda, Beta, or Sherco/Scorpa will have anything to worry about anytime soon. Perhaps prices will drop a bit after a few years if the new companies don't go broke. Well, except Honda, they'll charge whatever because people will pay more. Either way, best of luck to any TRS customers, hopefully spares are still available down the track.

If it's not documented then wind it up and compress the shock to find out.

Nissin 11mm '07+ CRF-R > all

DDM sells a carbon one for 145eu.

I have a 2.9 from 2000 and a lot of parts are same as later models. Never had an issue getting spares for mine but maybe things are different with the 125?

Just use the sink or the shower.

I'd get the beta because I'm not confident in new trials companies. But really I'd get a 4rt

These days I'd be more worried about companies' reliability than bikes.

I run what ever is cheap. Sometimes E10, sometimes regular. Have used an old can of 50:1 in my 4rt before. Apart from a puff of smoke it doesn't seem to care.

My 18 year old YZ has one of them. Uses a 3d map to advance the ignition depending on load. Not entirely sure how your wrist would do that.

All bike fluids must be: big brand name labelled motorcycle purchased from motorcycle dealer You'll pay triple the price or more for a product that works just as well but it will ensure tc members don't get their feelings hurt after years of overpaying. Good point. Always use the brand recommended; after all, oil companies spend good money to have their names in the manuals and little stickers put on the bikes.

pin it to win it braaaap

(Don't chain to anything for fast access).