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Grey is a weird thing and it doesn't mean anything to me The only way to read plug color is on the trail, you cannot way any time period, it must be done hot I prefer the burn pattern on the piston crown, if you can get a carbon spot in the middle of the piston that extends to within 6mm or so of the ring land you are getting good combustion temps

What is it you think is built up on the bearing?, it's not common, I've seen it before but not sure what it would be My best guess would be that fuel condenses on the bearing surfaces and then dries out (much like in a carb) Leaving deposits behind, probably builds up in the races as well causing a rough bearing and noise Was there any buildup on the crankcase surfaces?

I'm confused by the question

Sounds like interesting work, testing is more science than anything and science often wins The other thing worth mention is high rpm use like spinning an engine fast while running down a road as opposed to full load dyno testing produces drastically different load on the ring (12g limited by electronics or 12g limited by a brake for instance) Our bikes probably don't get over 7g give or take a bit and it's a rare occurrence to have full rpm and full load I'm not sure our apples compare to those oranges It's kinda like saying my trials tire will fail over 120kph, moot point

I'm curious what engine they were using to test with at 12,000rpm the problem is a long stroke engine as opposed to a short stroke engine radically changes piston speed so testing different oils would always have to be with an identical spec engine but would not apply to other engines, our trials bikes would huck parts everywhere at 12g, and a 2 stroke revving that high is pretty unusual, probably an 85 or something, they have an incredibly short service interval due to their HP per Litre Not applicable to our low hp per Litre bikes Due to the sliding scale of usage, all anyone can say is "Average user = Average oil ratio" Most of us could run from 60 - 80:1 and notice very little difference Another note, large amounts of oil means leaner fuel air ratio, so saying 20:1 will save an engine is not really true as a clean running bike at 80:1 will be lean at 20:1, the safety would be in the fact that the engine HP is reduced if anything Finally, engine builders reccomend very conservative jetting and oil ratios for a reason, it's protection / padding, it's often done during testing on pre production engines in a controlled environment on a dyno and with an oil manufacturers general recommendation It's just not real world Anyway, cheers, this question will never be settled on the internet, it's just fun to talk about

You better get on a patent or all the African trials guys will rip your idea off

LOL, ya, there is a good argument Nothing like bumping the brake lever on something during a low speed maneuver

I think this way If this was the perfect setup, then it would be that way for the last decade, and the pros would be all over it The idea of the clutch is not to disengage it and pull it to the bar 30mm after it disconnects It's to pull it to the disengement point and feel where it slips and keep it close to that point so you can use the slip point I say adapt to the bike like 99.5% of experienced riders rather than adapt the bike to achieve a result that is not beneficial Again, it's the slip point that matters, the lever does not have to be squeezed all the way

Maybe you could shoot some video for us do it your selfers

I think that would be "my finger won't relax" Seek medical attention if you finger is still straight after four hours

Base gaskets are basically paper with some adhesive or sealant in it It's not unusual for it to weap slightly or even just have dust stick to it I doubt there is a problem

The description of the problem is confusing There is no Pre detonation, there are at least two forms of abnormal combustion Pre ignition: where the fuel mix is ignited by a source other than the spark plug, this is similar to having incorrect ignition timing, it could be a glowing bit of head gasket or carbon etc, sometimes the fuel is ignited by both the plug and the other source and the flame fronts collide Detonation: the fuel mix does not burn evenly from the spark plug out like it should, it explodes (no the mix is not supposed to explode), this is sometimes due to incorrect ignition timing but most often it's excessive compression or lean condition It's kind of hard to tell the difference between the two but detonation is far more common Does it happen only when the engine is full hot, does it only happen at partial throttle etc etc

Ya it's unburned oil that's coating the inside of the exhaust When you get the pipe up to high temp such as hill climbing it basically cooks off the oil As this is a symptom rather than a cause, cleaning it will not stop it from happening again I think most trials bikes do this anyway, it's because we don't get the exhaust temp up often enough, you may be able to make it better but I doubt you can stop it completely I think you're running a bit too much oil

Outlaw Dave has one on the ground right now so it's available for sure

The answer to all of life's questions starts with Caustic soda http://www.causticsodapodcast.com This is truly great stuff

I don't think there is an answer to that question The thorns here will go through a tire, I imagine an African thorn is like a nail I remember a story about a lion with a thorn in his paw and this little kid pulled it out and the lion was like totally happy

I think there should be one o them at each section

Huh, mine just has a little drain screw So yours has no damping adjuster on top?

With EFI stuff it's pretty easy, idle speed controller just brings it to idle slower I'm not sure how Hondas system is made but that's how it's done on other systems Even a heavier crank would do it

Interesting to listen to a 125, must be very different to ride huh Good vid, for me it was the music that annoyed LOL

I kinda think it's not a worthless talent, it's all part of learning and feeling the balance point, how to put it there and not go too far, how to feel the bike react to throttle and weight placement And ....it kelps you maybe react properly when it all goes wrong And let's not forget that the CDI factor is high (Chicks Dig It), I think a wheely is about an 8.5, a stoppie is slightly higher

You can buy a multi meter cheep today It will answer your questions like the internet never can

Ya I dunno Modification in attempt to solve a running condition problem just gets you deeper into problems you can't understand I wouldn't change the carb unless it was to test a known good runner carb on the bad running bike

First question What was the first symptom? Did you suffer a sudden loss of lever pressure before you started working on it? If your caliper was leaking it would have been dripping fluid

It's really cool how they are lit, I like it But a couple pics of the Danube are partially blocked by a wheel