lowbrow

I don't know the answer Stu, but if you look at the events calendar for next year the centre championship is to be contested over 11 rounds. Like you, I don't know what happened to this year, except that a few events have been cancelled. It'd be helpful if the western centre gazette had a rider's league table. Are you a contender?

I have the Hebo flywheel weight fitted to my 300 and I know this will fit a 125, however the 125 has a different female thread in the end of the crank and therefore requires a different cap screw (supplied). Other flywheel weights do not rely on the flywheel centre bolt for attachment and these should also be a universal fit, but I have no direct experience.

Looks like a 98 to me. This was the first year of the aluminium tank.

An excellent trial Andy, one that you and the Wye Valley Club should be proud of. Thanks for all the hard work and for arranging such pleasant weather, I thoroughly enjoyed it. See you at the Percy Chadney, Dave

Pat, this is an opinion based on hearsay as I've no experience of the OKO myself, but a friend who bought one said none of the jets, needle or slide were marked with sizes which made tuning difficult. Keihin jets etc fit, but are not cheap and overall my friend thought it would've been better to buy a Keihin already set up for the bike. This was a while ago, and things may have changed. Perhaps others may know better? Dave

Thanks for keeping us informed, Mr D

First off, you need to check that you've got a spark. Take the plug out, put it back in the cap and holding only the cap press the threads of the plug against a good earth (such as a cylinder head bolt) while you kick the motor over. Better still, get someone you don't like to hold the plug while you kick! No Spark? Remove the tank and check all the connections are clean and fully home. Several earth wires are fastened beside the coil. Are they all in place? Have any pulled out? Best plan is to undo the fixing bolt, clean any corrosion off the frame and earth wire connectors with wire wool and refasten them. Still no spark? Disconnect the kill switch and check again. If still no spark you're into problems with the CDI and/or coil. If you've got a spark, make sure the carb is clean. If you can, blow through the jets with compressed air and make sure everything is spotless. Check the float height while you're at it, although this is unlikely to stop a bike running altogether. Is the fuel filter blocked under the inlet banjo? Is the carb filling with fuel? Make sure the air filter is clean. If you've got a spark and the carb/air filter is clean its bound to start, especially if you sneak up on it and take it by surprise! Good luck

Sounds like you may have an air leak making the motor run weak. It could well be the things meantioned by Max, but is the jubilee clip holding the carb into the inlet rubber tight? The rubber inlets can split (always at the back where you can't see!) and its also possible for the motor to suck air where the inlet joins the reed cage and the reed cage joins the crankcase. Make sure the gaskets are good, use new ones if you dismantle it and a smear of RTV to make sure.

Jan, The two positions of the switch either make or break the circuit. Remove the switch, choose the position you want and connect the two wires from the switch to an Ohm meter to find out whether you need to connect the two wires on the CDI together, or leave them separate. Dave

Andy, I hope you get a good entry for the Stan Hinsley. Sorry I won't see you there, but I'd already entered a road based trial just a little bit further north.

Be fair Andy, most riders haven't thought yet about what they're doing this Sunday let alone the end of next month! I agree that riders should have more thought for organisers and all the hard work involved. You always put on a good trial and I for one am looking forward to it. Talking about next Sunday, have you got a good entry for the Stan Hinsley? For those who don't know it, Bodenham is a great venue with lots of variety and a route to suit everyone.

Turn the fuel off, no choke and kick her over keeping the throttle pinned wide open. A new or dry plug will help, but she should eventually start like this. Good luck, Dave

I changed from a 325 Sherpa to a 310 Cota when they came out in 1977 and my experience then would confirm your opinion. In particular the Cota has a much smaller flywheel on the primary drive side of the motor than the double flywheel arrangement on the Bult. Must admit that I much preferred the pulling power of the Sherpa as I was regularly using low revs and 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears in sections, whereas the Cota needed to be revved more. I liked the more nimble handling of the lighter Mont though. Now those were the days.............. Cheers, Dave

I can tell you about the spring you should have because I tested one from a 2000 TXT280 a few years ago. Its approx 151mm in length and has progressive coils. ID at top is approx 48mm and the bottom end ID is approx 39mm. When tested this spring had an average rate of 68.9N/mm and a range of 68 - 75N/mm. Its sitting on a shelf in my workshop if you want it? Hope this helps. Dave

Thanks for the advice chaps, certainly a few very interesting options to consider. I was hoping to hear from some Scots because I know how wet it can be up there and their reputation for being prudent. Like many, I don't mind spending money for quality that lasts, but my present jacket is now for decoration only.

Can anyone recommend a lightweight jacket that keeps you dry? I'm looking for something suitable for our English summer that's still waterproof after its been washed, doesn't fill up with condensation and doesn't make you sweat. Is there such a thing?

Don't know where you are Mike, but I suggest you see here BVM Moto

The Pro's have a threaded steel peg to locate the caliper on the swinging arm. This isn't insurmountable if you haven't got one, but if your rear disc has five mounting bolts you'll need a different rear hub too. The Pro disc has four mounting bolts and the hub is machined to clear the caliper.

A good solid bike as long as its been looked after. The air box has to be removed to get at the filter, which is a bit of a pain, but later air boxes fit and it may have been changed. You didn't say how much you're paying, but you could probably get something newer quite cheaply if you look around.

Hey Alex, never mind the feeble excuses - be honest. Now your principal sponsor has let you ride his 250 you've been psyched out by the expectation of achieving great results on such a fantastic machine! On second thoughts, maybe you should have a break until you're man enough to master such awesome performance?

Great photo's chaps. Interesting to see how many riders didn't wear gloves in those days. Is Harry Crawford the only rider who still rides with bare knuckles?

Try 'borrowing' one of the mushroom or top-hat shaped bushings that fit into the bearings on the underside of the swinging arm and use this to push in the seal by gently squashing the whole assembly in a vice. If its all nice and greasy the seal should slip into the dog-bone without any problem. Hope this helps

Ed, Trialendurodirect.com has the tanks; you'll find them in the site sponsor list or hopefully this will work for you CLICK The plastic tank weighs 582 grams empty compared with 822 grams for the standard aluminium tank.

Kot, Have you thought of using the larger plastic tank Gas Gas UK supplies for long events especially the Scottish Six Days Trial? Its physically larger than the standard aluminium tank, but its actually lighter and you can see precisely how much (or how little) fuel is in it.

Latest action from the Indoor World Cahmpionship at 6.30 tonight on Motors TV.