2stroke4stroke

And replaced free of charge when worn out - the ideal footwear for the trials rider?

Fan is not controlled by time but temperature and will come on at whatever engine speed it is thus triggered.

Use the bike! The only way to get rid of the build up of gunk is to get the bike nice and hot. Or take the exhaust apart and clean it out (not always so easy).

Opinions on the effectiveness of Sealskinz vary in both the motorcycling and cycling communities. I've never taken the gamble of spending on Sealskinz but suggest you could do what cyclists do and put a poly bag over your sock. Okay it won't breathe but you're unlikley to have bone dry feet no matter what. Anyone remember PVC Sox?

I seem to recall seeing a diagram, presumably from an owners manual, showing the construction of the silencer with regard to changing the end cap from the homologation item to the one normally used, but can't find it on the web. Does anyone have a pic of this to show how the end cap comes off? Having drilled out the rivets, mine seems to be trying to bring the perforated tube with it, ie it's not keen to come off and I don't want to damage anything.

Actually I've just had a thought. Something along the lines of the wire type spark plug gauge would be ideal as it would fit easily. Is it possible to get bendable wire of some sort that is made in an acccurate enough diameter?

90 degrees seemed a bit far to bend. I cut the end off a gauge, drilled it and put a screw through it but there was not really enough working space. An engineer pal sets Honda gaps by opening so much from no gap based on thread pitch, hence travel of adjuster, and has had no problems over many years. Can't recall what the pitch is.

A bit fiddly but patience does it. If there was such a thing as a ninety degree feeler gauge it would be easier. Access to the valve covers is fairly straightforward. There is a special tool to turn the adjuster but it can be done with an open ended spanner of the right size.

You'll also have a hole in your crankcase unless you move your kickstart lever round a bit. As it is it will move the internals round too far. It should be more towards upright than you have it now Googling for a picture should give you the right setup. Though I notice you have a later lever on it I would still check.

The two are not mutually exclusive, surely?

It looks familiar but I can't remember the function of it.

It's all to do with the rider - I know someone who can do all the tricks on a 1960's framed Triumph twin.

I think there were a few with melted mudguard edges?

It is a fiddle and I haven't done it for forty years but I seem to recollect that you start with the tail pipe facing towards the front then thread the curved pipe through between the downtubes from back to front then wiggle it from there. My memory may be false of course.

It can't be "aerated fuel" - how much shaking about is it getting in the van compared to being ridden at a trial? Good advice above but I would also check your throttle cable for smooth operation and correct slack.

Is it sparking?

Factory settings would seem unlikely to be correct for a bike with so many mods to the motor and a completely different carb. You may have some experimentation ahead of you...............

The SSDT is a special case. There is the roadwork aspect you refer to, not to mention the possibility of a pinch puncture on the moors, but many lesser lights would prefer a slightly higher score in sections to the time spent repairing a puncture (especially in the days of rear tubes), usually needed when they are running late anyway?

I used a sort of lazy Susan setup with the spare wheel at the front so that I could wheel the trailer while it was on its side. Worked well.

Were you on standard gearing? I went up two teeth on the back and my 250 is less like a switch.

You already have found out, I think. If you don't use a high gear then the wheel will just lock up.

You'd have some difficulty adjusting it the other way round?

Yes, many don't seem to realise the importance of pressure. I recall a tuition day we held and before we started we checked tyre pressures. One chap refused the offer, gave me a look that indicated I was clearly some sort of daft old buffer, and said "The bike's only two months old". I wonder what his car tyres were like.

Bump starting a trials bike - you'll need to use fourth, if not fifth, gear.

The only time I saw a 4RT rider activate a lanyard the bike kept running. Of course he was left with no kill bitton to use instead.