2stroke4stroke

Where could you possibly fit the pump and the plumbing/wiring? Can't see any benefit. Bound to be a more costly setup than a standard pump I would have thought. Are you having problems?

Just let it be known at trials that you're selling - word of mouth can work surprisingly well.

Get the bike supported firmly on a box below the sump then test for play by moving the fork ends by hand. Easier with a pal sitting on the bike to prevent it moving and he can feel for play at the bearing.

As far as I recall the UKR was just a "standard" Cota with a stripe on the petrol tank.

It looks like you are not taking the normal precaution of applying grease to the walls of the airbox to trap dust?

b40rt has it right - the consequences of a repair coming undone and going through the motor could be expensive.

As far as modern bikes go nobody makes a "beginner bike", though there are some that might be considered expert only. 125s are designed for use by skinny teenagers and to give them as much power as can reasonably be used in the context within the artificial 125 restriction. In my limited experience of 125s they don't make riding easier - there is a delay in the power coming in when ridden in my style (and my weight of 160 lbs bbn) . Of course this can be reduced by using clutch slip and more throttle but that is just something else to distract while you are learning to negotiate sections, as opposed to blitzing in hard enduro style, and you could probably do without that. I ride a 4RT, after over forty years on two strokes, and find the delivery OK but it is different - I have no plans to go back. You won't find a Beta 200 over there so, as said, and as a broad generalisation, a 250 twostroke is probably your best bet. Having a relatively close dealer is a consideration. Some consider Betas to be outdated, having owned one for 12 years I would prefer to say, developed. Their relative poularity over here would seem to indicate they have it right.

I agree with your attitude but we live in the world as it is. Easy answer, have the session run as a formal practice with ACU approval and therefore insurance cover for those signing on.

As it is some years, and bikes, since I checked this and I happen to have a set of gaiters in the garage I thought I would measure my 4RT, which should be fairly representative of a typical modern bike. Distance between top of slider and bottom of yoke 178mm. Space taken up by a compressed gaiter of the type people fit to trials bikes is 60mm (but some seem to fit gaiters that are much longer than necessary so will take up even more space). I don't have access just now to my ratchet straps to measure fork travel to the last millimetre but Montesa claim 175mm so let's use that. 178 - 175 = 3mm. Try and fit a 60mm piece of solid (compressed) rubber in to that and you have lost 57mm of travel. If you've just paid £6,000 for a bike with the latest in suspension then 30% is a significant amount to lose. Now I don't go round using the modern riding techniques but the dirt tell tales indicate that even I use all but a few millimetres of the available travel.

The old-fashioned way to do it was to put a spare chain link over the cable between the lever and clamp.

If you measure the travel of any modern fork I have worked on then it can be seen that the this brings the slider very close to the bottom yoke. That gap is much less than needed to accommodate a concertina'd gaiter. Having always put gaiters on my bikes previously I was a bit annoyed, but not so much as to lose a good bit of the fork travel by fitting them. I imagine the same applies to the neoprene tubes.

I was looking for an alternative insurer and got a good quote using this https://www.motorcyclenews.com/insurance/

I fixed something similar with a smear of silicon seal, or you could try Heldite.

Does it shift better if you don't use the clutch?

I tend to agree. Perhaps a deputation might convince him otherwise http://sideburnmag.blogspot.com/2015/12/shobba.html

Can be flushed by pumping fluid whilst in one piece, it may need more than one go. I used to use paraffin and it did not seem to affect seals.

I seem to remember spending about ten minuteson the operation: removing the front wheel and mudguard then, having removed the top nuts, sliding the stanchions out the yokes, upending them and pumping in to a collection vessel.

That only leaves one thing, and I don't see how it could happen suddenly in the circumstances you describe, a demagnetised flywheel.

Arai recommend washing in baby shampoo and warm water (I use the shower). Mind you it takes about a week to dry out.

If I recall correctly from when I first got the car, I made enquiries about eyes to fit in the holes in the floor left for that purpose but my Fiat dealer was not much help. I think the holes were not threaded so I could not see how the eyes would be secured. Italian Fiat dealers might have more idea about what is available........

Well, given that there does not seem to have been a rush on Tigress motors following the Pre'65 Scottish, then, as we seem to have used all the British options, it will be foreign motors.

Ditto.

It is not necessary to insure a bike in order to apply for registration.

No. Plug is central hole.

A couple of years ago I sold a new and unused set of these I had left over from buying a new bike in the day (the Fox Shox I had from the previous bike were better). The guy who bought them thought they were good until he tried something more modern, which he has retained. If you're doing the forks there is no point in not modernising the rear. Take a shot on any bike so equipped if you don't believe me. Technology has moved on.