2stroke4stroke

Funnily enough, chain grease is designed to stick tenaciously, so once it is in to the fabric it's bound to be hard to get out. The solution to your problem is to adopt the old wax cotton trousers ☺ Though you may find that Elbow Grease spray does a good job of removing oil stains. I never have a problem removing mud with normal washing powder. Have you tried soaking overnight in a solution of this?

A pal once went from near Duns for an advertised test ride on an Italjet at Sammy Miller's.........fitted in to other things on the trip admittedly.

You don't actually need a visa to visit Scotland and, if you take the trouble to look at a map, you'll see that they are only just in Scotland, being very close to the border. Not so very far if you are genuinely interested (I have no connection with Border Bikes by the way). There's plenty to see and do in the area to make it a worthwhile combined visit, even if only for the Jim Clark museum which also happens to be in Duns.

I would imagine a lot of them prefer it - a proper day's riding of a motorcycle. For instance, notwithstanding how much of the Honda purse he is receiving, how long will it be before Toni Bou, as a mature adult, tires of spending his days bouncing a motorcycle around on its back wheel?

The Jitsie adjusters won't do anything if the standard ones allow use of the full length of the slot in the swing arm. I don't recall ever having owned a bike where they did not, but I've never had a Gas Gas. If you don't want a second spring clip then you could peen over the head of the pin making it a rivet.

Disconnect one of the pipes and leave for a week? Won't solve the issue but may confirm the source of the problem.

I think you'll find that, in law, an Oset falls within the definition of a "motor vehicle", hence won't be covered by household insurance.

Back in the day I used to use cream cleaner for sinks with a hard plastic brush and it did a reasonable job of cleaning the surface.

Use a strap wrench. Sammy Miller used to sell a metal version with a threaded clamp that went round the outside of the flywheel for the Bultaco but works on anything. It may still be in their catalogue.

Not really. Some did have markedly different characteristics, which either suited a rider or did not, but I would say from recollection that, broadly speaking, they all developed at a similar rate pre monoshock. What buyers perceived as better is another matter as I doubt anyone could have forecast what the next year's big seller was going to be.

Yes, and no. The rider was the real difference even back in the heyday of the 70's. Bikes could be different but not necessarily better or worse.

It has been known for a businessman to buy out the opposition in order to reduce the choice for potential customers and hence gain sales, but I can't see Jotagas as competition for TRS in any sense of the word, far less at a level to justify putting money in to getting rid of it?

Clearly you don't have enough slack in the cable. Remedy that before going any deeper.

The answer lies in the wording of the standard ACU entry form, assuming you ride ACU. I daresay AMCA forms are similarly worded. Have you actually read it before signing at any time? There are those who would consider it prudent to be familiar with a document that could be used for or against them in a court of law (which, sadly, is the reason why these forms exist).

Yes, it's not your problem - Sale of Goods Act - your dealer needs to sort it out.

Recommended mix ratio in the day was 50:1 (as per the measure in the filler cap). I would stick with that using a good semi-synthetic, no need for/benefit in using full synthetic. Can't remember what I ran in the gearbox (probably ATF) but any modern trials gearbox oil should suffice. Can't remember the quantity either but it may have been on a plate on the casing though I recall there was a level plug anyway.

This may assist http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/53359-ossa-engine-size/

I'm just wanting to get it off to paint it - looks like stator removal is the way, thanks.

It takes a bit of effort to get the casing off anyway due to the magnetic effect on the coils - I doubt you'd succeed with the additional friction of the rubber squeezed agin the sumpguard to avoid its removal. But casing only has to come off to do the filter so you can just drain every second change if you wish. You'll know, of course, that the gearbox oil is separate and also needs changing at intervals. I mention this as I heard about someone who bought a 4RT where the previous owner had been assiduous in changing the oil - except he had only ever done the gearbox oil, being unaware of any other. The new owner found the filter had long since collapsed. Some expenditure was required to repair the damage. Has anyone ever discovered how to undo the wiring connector to allow full removal of the casing?

It's surprising how often trees come in exactly the length required☺ And how using the petrol tap allows you to just lay the bike on its side.

Maybe the use of toffee is as sacrificial protection for the threads in the motor?

Don't run away with the idea that electronic ignition necessarily guarantees a future free of trouble (I agree it should do but the quality components do not seem to be there). Once sorted your points system should be fine. There's plenty electronic ignition woes expressed on here.

Fork seals should be easy, as for the rest I would guess you might be as well following a rocking horse round with a shovel. They weren't exactly popular at the time so parts were never common even then.

It's not the number of gears that matters but what those gears are. A pal, who was a better rider than me, could not keep up with my 200 Beta over the rough on his TYZ engined Scorpa until he lowerered the gearing when it became an even match. I seem to recall riders managing to cross the Scott moors fairly rapidly with four speed boxes..............

I almost always used the low first on my Beta. I miss a sixth gear on my 4RT only because I would prefer the closer spacing on cross country going. The last bike I owned that had a "proper" top gear was the 348.