2stroke4stroke

I did both on my 348 back in the day, using roofing insulation, and it was a lot smoother afterwards.

I just taped up the vents from the inside. Bike runs fine and the amount of muck that still reaches the filter shows that plenty air is getting through.

Just check that nuts and bolts are not loosening off.

If the tap is that bad to use and the results of leaving it on are so bad then I'd be draining the tank or putting a clamp on the petrol pipe between events.

Sorry, I don't recognise those. What is the problem with them? I would normally expect such as these to be mounted the other way up for the damping system to work properly.

What colour are the springs and how many on each unit? They could be Fox, but a photo would certainly help a great deal.

The liquid type is recommended to be applied by pouring some in to a ziplok bag then putting the filter in to the bag, sealing it and massaging tbe oil in. No mess and no waste with just the right amount used - surplus remains in the bag for next time if you put too much in, but you soon get to know the right amount. I went to NoToil oil years ago, it's easy to use and can be washed out with a solution of washing powder so does not leave a smell in the kitchen?

As far as I know the lighting runs direct and LEDs won't like that so plug and play, as you put it, seems unlikely.

I was told that Honda don't do casing paint, which seems a bit odd. If you have enough on the casings it can be scanned by a car paint supplier (there's one in Livingston I think) and matched.

They were certainly good for flying over the moors Ross and the early ones very fast (in context) on the road. Now that I think about it I remember scraping my wellie boot whilst cornering on the road at the Alan Trophy. I must have been braver then as the footrests were pretty high, in accord with the Rathmell design.

If memory serves, your selection problem is caused by the drum in which the pawls slide having been put in upside down. The groove for the pawls is offset from centre.

And that gear lever won't last long way down there.

I know someone who successfully did the occasional enduro on a mono Yam..........

I always liked the kick start lever the works bikes used at one time - the bit the foot contacted was a bar that slid in and out of an eye at the top of the lever. Very simple and no pivot to go sloppy and no fancy washers. I'm sure these could be replicated at a more economical price? i think a fin was machined to allow it to be housed.

Aye, and he was telling me just last week that he was riding the first Yamaha to compete in the SSDT.

I'm sure the porting was different between S and R, the exhaust certainly was and I think the jetting, if not the carb. Bottom ends probably the same.

It's all relative of course. These modern things might be fast action, but they're not quick action. I once saw, and maybe even rode (it's too far back to recall), a trials bike with the old Amal Quick Action twistgrip - nothing to full throttle in a quarter turn. Cam must have been about two inches diameter. Just the job for road racing.

I ran a 200 for many years and I would say it is better than a 125 as it has more bottom end so you don't get that lag followed by a surge of acceleration when you open the throttle from low revs. This can be avoided by using the 125 technique of slipping the clutch (or weighing 9 stone) of course but you'll have enough to learn without adding that in. Normally I don't agree with extreme tweaking to change a bike but, as you already have the 300, then you may as well try the inexpensive mods. Why a fast twistgrip is standard is beyond me as most average riders need to change them, or should but are too vain to do so. As said above you will find any bike a bit of a struggle at first after being away so long.

Bring it down to the Galloway Club trial at Thornhill this weekend - details on the club website and Facebook page. The event will suit someone such as yourself - there will be a few beginners there.

What level are you filling it to? Should be at the top of the matrix plus a wee bit. If you fill it "full" then it will burp out to reach correct level. Hot coolant expands.

I've never heard of anyone hacking in to a website or e-mail account and stealing data that was on paper. In my opinion it is more secure - someone has to know where it is then break in to the premises to get it.

That seems a bit more complex than the standard two kicks at full throttle with the kill button depressed that I have to do frequently. Had you tried that method? Once you get the tickover set correctly you don't want to be fiddling with it unless absolutely necessary.

I used to find it was the head of the bolt that was making contact with the joining link as it would loosen off slightly, I just kept the bolt tight. Clearance is tight so putting the spring clip to the inside of the chain also helps, but it's good practice anyway.

My local taxi upholstery repairer was the place to go in the old days.

I'd use my old camera but I find It's getting harder to obtain magnesium powder these days? Still got a roll of 35mm in the fridge though.