baldilocks

Just to chuck a spanner in the works wasn't Ahvala using MT73 Tubeless ? Both 43 and 73 were very hard tyres but they gripped better than I expected. I remember MT 43 being popular in the early 80s until the Michelin took over completely.

So how did you convert into £s from €s ?

If you think about the timing of the factory model release by Sherco Scorpa and Beta what gas gas did in previous years was pretty similar wasn't it ?

I didn't think there was much to add to your post Johnny, I'm not disagreeing with you. On reflection we do need to get our house in order starting with if we are going to have road trials then we should have a legal registration plate fitted. Manufacturers need to supply a suitable mudguard for this but they don't. We should also have a speedo fitted, it may not be a legal requirement but for what it weighs we shouldn't be guessing our speed going through a village

He means the bike is spluttering as it's a little too rich. Usually either pilot jet or needle is wrong. My swm wouldn't rev but was fine everywhere else in the Rev range

5th / 6th bumps no problem

I was thinking reading the post he maybe meant the engine was pinking ? Are you sure you have the correct petrol oil mix ? Forgot to put oil in a bike years ago it pinked terribly

I got caught out by the linkage change. I had ridden a gas gas with an Ohlins and kept all of my settings. I switched to sherco for two years and then back to gas gas for the 2013 ssdt. I bought an Ohlins shock the week before and set it up as before. But I had to wind up the spring during the trial as the ride height was too low and this effected steering and ground clearance. I fitted a heavier spring when I got back home

Not wishing to offend yamaha fans but that's an even bigger mess than the sy250f. It's just too big a lump for trials. I think he actually won on it, but bear in mind the nature of the sections. From what I have seen the sections in Japan are either big hills needing lots of power or arena trial style steps on a tarmac road. Can you imagine trying to ride that up a slippery stream or on a wet day at the colmore

Yes

Yes but should be easier as the hose will retain the fluid if you lean the bike over

When installed last time was the oil feed lined up correctly on the ignition side bearing?

Fit the master cylinder, fill with LHM or mineral brake fluid, turn bars to right hand lock so cylinder is at highest point. Then pump the lever, make sure you have play in the system and it should be bled in 10 mins. I never touch the bleed nipple

The TY was modified by lots of people back in the day who opened up ports, skimmed cylinder heads and cylinder bases, bored them out to 262 etc etc so you may be comparing apples and pears. Check your bike has the correct piston. Someone did try to sell me a 262 piston and they genuinely didn't realise the gudgeon pin to piston crown distance was different and would therefore lower compression. Fitting a better carb is still a good idea

Clutch basket will be worn where the tabs on the plates meet the basket. Strip and either file smooth or replace

Think I've got it now. If we forget about spacers for a moment and measured wheel bearing to wheel bearing that distance may or may not be the same. However what your trying to explain to me is that the relationship between the bearing surface and the sprocket mounting is different. It may also be different on the brake side. So if you solve that with a spacer on one side you are creating a problem on the other side. If it's exactly 2.5mm each side then the swinging arm may be able to flex enough to accommodate it but then that's a whole different set of problems potentially. Thanks for your patience

We may have to agree to disagree ?. I'll try my friends 4rt wheel in my GG and report back. Thanks anyway as I don't wish anyone to buy a wheel that won't fit their bike.

But the sprocket alignment is set by the spacer on that side of the wheel ? once the spindle is tightened up the spacer is setting the distance between the sprocket and the swinging arm. Once the sprocket is set correctly then the spacer on the other side can be adjusted either way. This is just about making a cheap wheel fit the gas gas.

I prefer the red galfer pads over the bronze sintered type. The sintered pads seem too hard and score the disc

You could file 5mm off the spacer if a cheap wheel turned up

My current spare wheel is originally from a sherco, it fits the later gas gas pro if you change the drive side spacer. It also fitted my 2006 scorpa using sherco spacers. I'd be surprised if it didn't fit the later 315 mont and 4rt. From all these possibilities you should be able to get a wheel

Depends on year. It's got to have the caliper inside the swung arm like the pro rather than above

There's recently been a topic on this. It's normal

I know of one rider yes, I wonder if he has a sibling....

No I've been running either atf or putoline light gear oil for years. My current bike was new in march 14, I've just changed the mains recently but only because I was splitting the cases to change the needle rollers as a precaution. Mains were still perfect, annoyingly so we're the needle rollers but better safe than sorry