baldilocks

My march 2014 bike is still running its original main bearings. I think there were some issues, one guy near me had them replaced on a 2015 model.

I've been riding gassers for years. Generally starts 2/3 kick every time.

I just pump the lever with the master cylinder at the highest point. I do the same with the front brake. But the back brake that's a pain

It's often more complex than just the throttle. Any given surface has a level of traction but better riders always get more from it. Look at some video of pipeline in the ssdt. I'd say on this section body position is as important as throttle control. You need to maintain momentum and that is about having enough weight over the rear, absorbin the bumps to keep the rear wheel on the ground, picking the right line and throttle control. Practicin figure eights is good throttle control practice as mentioned. However to get good traction there's a bit more to it.

Was the 2015 a different crank in the factory bike Dabster ? I could imagine factory riders bikes having this sort of thing but I'd be surprised if they went to that much trouble for the factory version they sell to Joe Bloggs

Bought some of these recently. Tested them when I rode out of a section and clipped the footpeg of a parked bike with my shin. It still hurt but no real damage. Best new product for a long time, highly recommended.

I use brake cleaner to fit the grips pictured above. They are reasonably robust so I don't need to fit bar plugs. Been using them since they came onto the market, very good

Needed to be different as actually the old crew were getting on my nerves in the last couple of series with the scripted stupidity. However I thought it was too similar

The later ones have a stainless steel rather than aluminium exit pipe. This solves the problem as less heat transfers to the plastic according to gg. It didn't melt at the ssdt so I'm taking their word for it

I agree with you smarty so that's why I've asked

So how does he adjust the finger height without changing the plates ?

I didn't get wet and if you follow the instructions the forks won't be knocking afterwards. Confidence !

You need to strip them to get all the oil out of the cartridge in the leg. There's step by step instructions on "the Hell Team " website. It relates to late model scorpa sy but the forks are the same. It's not difficult to do once you know how

Dabster I found a link on a Spanish site but it disappeared next day, that's where my comments come from

Just by swapping someone else's unless anyone knows better ?

Could you run the bike without the retaining bolt? It hasnt really got anywhere else to go with the slave cylinder up against the fingers. Might loosen it off without using leverage?

Anyone seen any yet ?

The description tells you those are from a 2003 gas gas. Service the forks you have would be my advice

Does it rev cleanly or sound choked ? When the coils on the stator start to fail the bike won't rev very high

I got it out using a lever against the dowel in the crankcase. But you can't really apply a lot of pressure.

First of all sluggish compared to what ? Part of that bikes success was it's lack of power which helped lots of people find grip without ever having throttle control, including me. For example a 240 Fantic in my view had more power although it's was only a 212cc. A 300 Fantic or 240 swm had more power by some margin. Compared to your mx bikes it would be more like a 125. So to help you why do you think it's flat, what are you comparin to ?

I'm not sure what bike he is talking about when it's described as a contact pro ? Gas gas own forks were just copies of what's in his sherco anyway.

Smarty two things I have learned recently which may help. First of all new plates bed in .1 to .15 mm on first use so if you are setting it up at 9.75 it will be out of spec after the first trial. Two, are the steel plates brand new ? I swapped plates from an old set to get the right thickness but the clutch slipped. When I stripped it again one of the steels was worn on the underside so I think unless the fibres where lined up perfectly with the groove in the steel plate any measurements I took were incorrect. Changed steels clutch is now perfect

On the previous gas gas motors I have had the clutch has come off really easily. However on my current bike the hub in centre is really a tight fit into the gearbox input shaft. So I think tolerance on these shafts must be variable

On the gas gas the entry hole for oil in the bearing case on the ignition side is tiny so I doubt anything will get in. It's about 1mm. However I think the drive side is open, is the ossa the same ?