lsv

I think you'll find sidestands are all the same for 315's and 4RT's and they are pretty poor to say the least! TWK are the best but a bit pricey. The one one the 4Ride is really good but heavy..............

24mm spanner for nut, 22mm for spindle.

Use the level plug/screw. 0.5L at change, 0.6L at rebuild...............

GTS Products?

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/peet-dryer-advantage-helmet-boots-dryer-petadv-akn/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180andistItemId=-xwrqxqlqlrandistBid=tandgclid=Cj0KCQiA5NPjBRDDARIsAM9X1GJ75UPKh8HGngW2tTS3SCbaEkwr0GVV6d1y_iss5UzGqcc2o7p_ArwaAsm2EALw_wcBandgclsrc=aw.ds

They are both very friendly and welcoming clubs (and I'm not involved organisationally with either) you should give them a go.Gresford have one 2moro at Llanarmon DC - great venue if a little remote.

I would suggest you check out the venues used by both Aqueduct and Gresford clubs as they are not as far north (IMHO) as you may think and they are both excellent clubs. Hope this helps.

Honda made TLM's in 200,220,240,250 and 260 cc models.

Manual says: ATF 295cc +/- 2.5cc Level from top (better way to fill) 118mm 0-5.69 psi

Crank shaft seal, fitted in crankcase behind the flywheel.

Worth checking crank seal - flywheel side - for air leak. Can give similar symptoms.

clic clips, pliers on ebay for £7-8 see item No 162877002823 as an example.

Only my opinion but, you don't use decompressor for starting on 2/S. Used to give a bit of engine braking on the downhills and avoid stalling due to using too much rear brake. Not the same as using one on a 4/S to aid easing over the top of comp stroke before kicking.

Best of luck with that. I too just needed the rubber seal and was forced to buy the top as well - about £20 for what should have been about 10 bob for the rubber! The rubber in my opinion should not have swolen like it did on a late (2015) bike - it looked just like what happens if you put DOT4 seals in mineral oil so I don't think the rubber used is correct for the job - a possible safety issue that should be addressed by the manufacturers. I have stripped a lot of 30yr old Nissin (and 15yr old Grimeca) mastercylinders and never experienced this. Needelss to say I don't think much of this Braktec stuff.

As long as you have no air (vacuum) leak on the main tank, the aux tank should empty first then the main tank.

Can't believe you're not able to fit a front wheel - best stick to welding or messing with old Armstrongs!!

Just get fed up of seeing muppets spouting misinformation on forums. Also to be legal on the road (C&U regs) a speedometer is required.....................

www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/611017/mot-inspection-manual-classes-1-2.pdf

I think you will find (in the manual) that only unregistered bikes are exempt from displaying a (correct) numberplate. A battery horn that emits a constant,continuous,uniform and audiable note cannot be failed unless considered harsh or grating........... My advice - read the book and challenge the tester and or appeal the test if necessary.

The tester was wrong, he needs to read the testers manual. It is availible for all to read on the gov.uk website. m1i00000001.1.0a - mot-inspection-manual-classes-1-2.pdf

No reflector required.

try this one http://www.thehornit.com/the-hornit-db140/the-hornit-db140.html they are great and legal

If it's a 1896 model it should be in a museum! :-)

Looks like the all balls kit only contains one spherical bearing, not two. Is that the case?

Have you changed the spherical bearings in the shock?