lineaway

We have gone to a 118 and 38 and ride at 6000 ft. Was just at an event last weekend and it ran well. 2012 250 riding expert. It is a dell orto. A Keihin, just guessing would be a 120-125 and 50.

Sounds like you broke it. I`ve done one and it all went together nicely.

The oil could be the issue. Not all oils are meant for wet clutches. "Castrol does not recommend using passenger car motor oils like Castrol GTX in motorcycles. In 1996 the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the performance standards of motor oil from SG to SJ (currently SN). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus levels to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and emissions issues of passenger cars. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and these engines typically require a higher level of the anti-wear additives (zinc and phosphorus). Passenger car oils use friction modifying additives to reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. Friction modifiers react with metals forming a molecular layer that reduces friction between moving surfaces. In a typical motorcycle engine with an oil immersed clutch (wet clutch), friction modifiers may be absorbed on the clutch plates rather than on the metal surfaces. This can reduce the friction coefficient of the clutch plates and as a result the clutch will start slipping causing a loss of power transfer to the back wheel, overheating and increased wear." ...In other words Castrol added friction modifiers in the API SJ spec and didn't have to list it as energy conserving in the API bullet. Then they went on to say Blaw blaw blaw we have $15 a quart motorcycle oil you should use.

Should not be an issue.

Of course the distributor was not happy. As of this moment he has no factory to cover the expense.

A new strap could not hurt, but even a new bike needs tires checked just before you ride. New tire, new valve, new strap, tire gauge and air pump, you will be set.

I once used the front wheel, master cylinder and caliper from an `84 YZ125. It all bolted straight on, except a machinist made a bracket from the caliper to the fork that was just held on with hose clamps. Covered it up with a disc cover. Actually was a great working brake. Since you have a few TY`s, this might be an easier fix.

Put in ATF . You will like it better any way. You won`t like this, but the quick fix is to warm up the bike. Find a nice obstacle to hold the bike in place, click it up to fourth and burn the clutch a few times. Or check the finger height of the clutch. The finger height is the most important measurement to make the PRO work. You can also do a search for gas gas clutch repair to learn more. 18 to 19 is not that hard to get. When you get below 16 it just does not work well.

Besides the remote reservoir mount, the foot peg mounts were strengthened. In the states many `85 models were sold. The `86 model was relatively rare in comparison, but much better bike due to the rear shock.

Sand them down a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv3sWgY-RjM Or you could go backwards and buy the stiffer clutch spring from the early Pro`s. That is what I had to do this week, since my bike started slipping in 5th and 6th. Good Luck.

The `86 was better, mainly if the rear shock is in good shape. Somebody sure tried to make it look like an `88.

The white one looks like an 88 TY250?

You actually need to disassemble the forks to find the problem.

Has Bob talked about lightening the flywheel? Makes a world of difference, depending on how hard you plan on riding it.

That was the same problem with the Amal. The pilot would plug up quite easily.

Tony 27 is correct. No sense doing the top end and not the bottom end. There is a crank on e bay, but you still will need mains and seals.

Well the 2014 Ossa was supposed to have main bearing problems. Same factory, similar motors. No facts to back it up. Just here say. Almost all manufacturer`s have had similar issues. We had a 2015 sound that way and the importer made a strange trade as no `15s were available. I would just tear into it and fix it. it is now 2 years old. Some times it`s better to bite the bullet. Never understood why anyone would buy an Eco. Seen a friend do the same. Gas Gas die hard, more bikes than you and bought a eco. Not happy..

Take the fly wheel cover off and back the flywheel using a ratchet and socket.

There has been an issue with the pins in the connections sucking into the wiring harness and not making a good connection. Also the pins for the CDI. Just a thought.

With my ty`s I always used Bel Ray gear oil. That was long before I started using ATF. No problems. Can`t go wrong with yamalube.

No rings. chrome bore, no other sizes. You could do a sleeve, but would have special order the piston (have it made). Try Bob and see if he has any laying around.

Oh, it`s worth it. The cylinder and piston were the parts unavailable. So a little strange.

Nipped a piston and/or sheared a flywheel key.

Sounds like the slide is either in backwards or not closing all the way. I would not start it again until this is resolved. Good Luck.

It is just a vent, does not connect to anything. Back to the air filter oil. If you live in the UK (wet) you can get by with a spray. If you live in a very dusty climate the bottle of oil is best. Actually foam filter oil can be too thick for a trials bike, but in a dirty climate the whole filter must be oiled.