lineaway

https://ssdt.org/

As new with stock gearing the bike would do 4th gear wheelies with a good tug. The bike was/is very heavy. It makes plenty of power, but you have to ride it very aggressive to make it work. I had the first one in our club, I also had a very modified one. Tucked frame, aluminum skid plate (removed the tubes) and 300 kit with complete exhaust. I still have a stock one just for memories sake. Besides very low ground clearance the stock bike actually works well. Have fun with it.

What I actually did was take gasser 160 springs and cut to the same length as the Beta springs. If you want to eliminate drag you have to add a thin shim to the flat bearing on the pressure plate.

All the top riders have the lever closer to the grip for better feel and short throw. I do just the opposite for the most leverage. I can remember I always suffered from arm pump from holding on so tight and I would end up bleeding all over if it was a long event. Now it scares me that my grip is so weak and its been over a decade since I have had any arm pump.

Just go out and try your middle finger. 4 years ago I severed the tendon at the last joint of my clutch finger. I tried and tried to use my middle finger. I finally gave up and re-adjusted my levers and made my own clutch springs as my finger was so weak I could hardly hold the lever in.

Thats because they learned wrong and its almost impossible to change after years if muscle memory. I think we have one guy in our club that uses the middle finger out of 100.

Like these two riders.

You should ride a modern bike with both index fingers on the levers most of the time. Closer to horizontal to the ground. If not go back to your Enduro bike! LOL. Check out how most of the top riders do it. Don`t ask someone that has no clue, either.

It will never work correctly without the outer cover on. It has popped out of were it sits like in a hole and you have probably stressed the spring out of shape. I have had this issue several times and it is just not correctly seated. At this point it is a PITA. What were you doing in the first place? Do you still have the shim for the shaft that sits against the case?

Well, if it takes a long time to turn on. A tell tale sign the fans life is about out, spinning with the finger gets it going. I have had this happen on a couple of bikes now. A new fan is the only fix.

You have to be careful. A ten year old fan can be having trouble just starting to spin.

Surprisingly, that assembly is very durable. I have been riding trials for 50 years now and that is better than any metal one we ever used. So throw a spare throttle assembly in your kit as they are cheap. The only thing that ever breaks alot is that little cap on top. Ps do not overtighten the bolts.

Leave the forks on the bike and use a tie down to put pressure on the spring and remove the bolt. Having an air gun or electric makes it much easier.

Something is wrong how the sprocket is mounted to do that damage. That looks like a case problem. Not just the seal. By the way that seal sits behind a blind bearing, not an easy job.

Yeah, the engine oil is cheap. My son just paid 70 dollars for a bottle of Elf in the states. That is why I switched to Nills.

I waited to the 6 month mark to change out the Elf oil. I went to the Nills trial clutch oil. The Elf came out looking terrible. I sure regret waiting too long. On my second change with Nills. Starting to look clean again. My employer changes his oil yearly. Seems his bikes could last longer if he maintained them more often. 2 17's, 4 16's and the other 6 05's are plumb worn out. I have stayed with very clean motor oil. Changed every month or two depending on use.

Use longer bolts in the rear and I cut the rubber gasket to easily remove the cover.

Went from a trrs rr 300 to a 2021 Montesa 301. Has to be right around 15 Lbs. Huge difference between bikes as I load without a ramp quite often. And when you hop it is quite noticeable. That said, I got rod of the TRS as it does not hold a line. The Montesa is very PLANTED in comparison.

The magnet kill switches are junk. You can just replace it with a 2 wire kill button. I run a atv tether type switch in tadem with a Yamaha style kill button. Your starting issues are still tied to a low idle , I bet. Go to a new plug and up your idle.

Yeah, my ftont end slid 3 times during the first loop of a trials. I went back to my truck, opened a cold one. Wiped down my fenders and rims, installed a sign. 24 hours later I never had to worry about the front end again.

I would bleed the radiator and bypass the thermistat and see if the problems persists. You have removed all the lights and wires for them?

No I was responding ti the o.p. What a rider does between sections his usually his own personal problem.

T he starting point would be the idle needs to be set at 1800 rpm. It will not be happy at any lower setting. AND any 4 stroke will back fire if you rev it in nuetral and hit the rev limiter.

Yeah, newer .the better for sure. `14 the oldest. `09 was the worst.

For starters the Evo turns! Have you never ridden one? The brakes on the newer models are better than the revs ever were.The power is soft on the bottom, but there is nothing you can't get up. The rear suspension works very well. I enjoy how the Beta still carries more fuel than the other brands the 250 motor gets good mpg. I have been a Beta rider most of my trials life, the evo felt great to me the moment I got on it. And I can still remember my first event on my brand new 2000 rev 3. I felt the same way, it rode like my techno but everything worked better! GOOD Luck in your search.