lineaway

Funny on all the opinions. 2 years ago sold my 2016 Beta 250 factory. Bought a TRS 300RR. Never did get along with it. Too quick of power and the handling was too quick too. Might be just right if you only rode like Bou. Bought a 301 Montesa just cuz it was the 75th anniversary edition. Sentimental buy as I started out on a 1971 cota 247. My neighbor still has my Beta. My financial advisor tells me I should have kept my '16 Beta. Buy a newer 250 Beta, it is way better than the rev 3 ever was. And I went through seven of those.

And some people buy a bike and dont know what premix is. I would ask if he had a reciept for the work. The overall condition usually shows if its been beat. . Skid plate, swingarm and rims usually tell the real story of abuse or not.

Everyone with different opinion. The easiest way to bleed a system thst is being stubborn is to remove the whole thing assembled and just hang it with the caliper at thd top and the m/c at the bottom. Use a clear hose on the nipple straight up. It's all about gravity. Here is an example.

Did you remove the spark plug cap and trim back the plug wire till you had clean wire again?

Should only need to be done once. Use a clear 2-3 foot bleeder hose draped over the rear fender to see what you are doing and for gravity to help.

You need a friend. Someone to teach you how to ride. Body english is what trials is all about. The only time you have straight legs is to hold pressure.

You should have been around in 2011 with formula brakes on the new models. Most brake problems are self induced and almost all trials bikes use the same parts.

You need to burp the banjo bolt on both ends of the hose. Just a quick loosening and retightning will get it moving. It helps if the caliper is higher than the m/c.

Call your dealer, and he shkuld get the info from the importer. Have you pulled off the flywheel, cleaned the rotor, checked all wirs inside and made sure you did not shear the flywheel key? Next thing would check all grounds, including the screws that hold the stator on.

Well it`s about time this thread got used.

Actually you are not wrong. The zap was made during a time that the suspension was still not very refined. You had to really drop the front end really low to get the desired outcome and it was on the edge. And now most people have learned to drop the tire close to the top. So it is almost a rollup rather than the old style zap. But a rider doing a bridge can still get 5 foot of lift from a dead stop. Not me, but my son comes close. I can remember when the bunny hop was introduced with the double blip on our twin shock bikes. We thought we were unstoppable. LOL.

The double blip is the most basic move to get over a log or ledge. It`s one of the first things learned that involves real timing. I have always said a roll up will get you up almost 90% of all ups. Using RSG on a roll up can get you up 98 % of anything. You do not have to look good riding trials as long as your are feet up you are golden. That is now the basic taught technique, doing a real zap takes very good timing and hours of training. A splat is easy if you have a kicker, but is very hard off flat ground.

Neil sounds like he made a nice niche in the crazy new world. A lot of the coaching seems to be skipping the finer parts of trials training. The newer bikes are just so much easier to ride. You do not need as much timing if you are not afraid of going into a higher gear and attacking hard and true. But skipping the double blip is as bad as a new rider leaning to hop well but never learning to turn! Which many have done, to regret it later. I wish Mr. Price well, as that is quite an interesting approach to trials training.

Either buy new plates or you could get the original spring, but the pull would be much heavier. From our online distibutor down under. Earlier bikes had 1.5mm and even 1.7mm on the first years of the Pro motor.

Old school needle type grease fitting. Even in the 90`s alot of trials bikes took a needle type fitting Example of these. https://www.amazon.com/Low-Profile-Grease-Zerks-5-Piece/dp/B07B8WM3QZ/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=needle+grease+fitting&qid=1642730422&sr=8-15

Once you remove the jet tower, the gasket is really obvious. It takes a security torx to take it apart. It used to be you could not get the gasket. You tube Keihin jet tower. I never would of touched it until it left me no choice. But that is where the real problems exist.

The stock jetting was a 150 main and 30 pilot jet from memory. Nothing wrong with the mikuni once you fix the carb from p****** all over the ground. I would try just the 30 pilot and see how it runs.

keihin has a problem with the jet tower. The piece with the security torx. Thats the only way to clean the carb. Oh yeah , the o ring gasket should be replaced.

Sounds for the most part normal, are you sure there is not a leak at the gasket between pipes.

This is where I order from, but you should find something closer. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/K-101-Parts.html

The advantage you are talking about is going to a tubeless tire. That can be done with several different rims.

No. Back in then everything was done by a machinist.

My 2016 factory 250 I tried every combination of sprockets. It drove me nuts. I finally spent a few hours mathmatically crunching the numbers. I ended up with 9 and 44. This gave me a super usuable 2nd gear for almost all sections. This also makes 3rd gear the same as the stock second. First gear for only the tightest of sections. Good luck.

I would change out the jet tower oring with one from an OKO. It is much thicker, and the stock one shrinks. If you have lots of time to waste there is several you tubes of how to check if the jet tower leaks. Good luck. The Beta should get farther on a tank over other brands.It has the largest modern capacity. Should make about 25 miles.

So since you have done everything, again. How are the vent lines routed?