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No matter what, you need to pull the cover off and take a look.
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Well , just order the shims. It`s a 15 minute job.
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All the 348`s were 51m. Here is my 1978.
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The 1985 had drum brakes. You need to check the linkage for a broken bolt.
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Cases, pipe, forks, handle bar mounts adjustable. Could have different ignition. Rear shock and linkage are different. I would wait. I have a buddy that bought a std 4T a few years ago because he got a deal. His 2 previous bikes were Factory`s. He always rides one of the older Factory bikes when his boys are not riding them.
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I would guess you are good as lo g as you have a thumb screw to fine tune it your good.
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The El Trial was rescheduled for October 31st, and the Ute Cup should be fine as I am planning to ride both! Besides it`s my clubs 50th year too!
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Did not see your last post. The fuel screw is in front of the bowl towards the engine intake, under the carb. That is why you need the thumb screw. And usually the dealers do not recommend jetting changes. The only reason I can reason is it is hard. The Beta owners manual showed the jetting changes for years, under competition jetting. The 4t always came lean for emissions.
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Showa is basically for Honda. The Repsol is the only 4rt using it?
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Depends on the kid. My son was like 5`7 at 11. My grandson is 4`5. Nothing wrong with a Beta sr 80, or a 125 either. The full size 80 is stll big for my grandson.
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KtM dropped every single Gas Gas dealer in North America 3/31/2020.
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Why would you Gas Gas if you have no dealers. Go with something dependable like a Beta or Montesa. You do realize the future of Gas Gas has not been real clear and bikes are not available.
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Make sure you remove the set screw first.
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They are handy for re-shaping skid plates, straightening forks, and bars, pressing bearings, rebuilding cranks etc...
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They normally come lean on the pilot, so going richer would help the starting and make sure the float is correct. Also the `18 model year was bad for all brands with poor venting gas caps. It would be worthwhile to check. Also you can always just lay the bike over till you get a dribble of fuel out of the carb over flow. Best to get the engine to top dead center before you kick it. You can just kick the thing to death and it will never start like a normal bike.
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Yes it needs pressed in. A spanner wrench should be used, but a punch can do it. A punch or screwdriver will leave the nut with a mark. Removing the races can be more trouble than it`s worth unless it needs to be done.
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Bars, top triple clamp and just slide the fork tubes out the lower clamp along with the front brake. Unless you need to service the front tire and forks.
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You can just ride around with the clutch till it breaks free. The front brakes work fine on the Techno. You can just by pass the thermostat to try to make the fan work.
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Yes, a friends press. Unless you got the whole thing coming. The old gasser`s used to break the stem, that is how I know. I did about 8 or so.
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I was talking about the rear. But I bet the front pads are contaminated. If you want it to work start with fresh pads.
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So, have you jetted it. It is a two stroke. Did you buy it from a trials dealer or just someone sent you a crate?
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You did bleed it with the caliper up, and mc at the bottom. Clear hose to see what is happening?
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That is about jetting which is fine. But he should buy the gasket set and the needle and seat from Honda. I have saved several badly corroded TLR200 carbs and they came out fine with a little TLC.
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Are you replacing the clamp lower or the stem? They usually are two different pieces, but the same procedure. You need a press.
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