lineaway

If you want the clutch to actually hit, use ATF. Been that way now for three decades of Beta`s.

Exactly. That is why I suggested to remove the lever. It is easier to bleed using a long clear hose that will reach over the bars. Good luck.

Usually an o ring towards the other end. Look at other sets. Did you not have one on the old piston?

Leave the bleed nipple closed and loosen the hose at the m/c and pump to see if any fluid is moving. PS, remove the lever and just use a phillips or round headed hex to pump.

That might be a great suggestion for Jitsie to redesign that cover. It could be easily made to cover that area.

You could make a plastic guard, but really you need to get the front up a little higher on obstacles and be more aggressive on ledges.

You did put it together in nuetral? You should be able to select gears by rotating the countet shaft sprocket. When the basket is rotated backwards is it the Kick start thay is stopping it?

After 40 years the rubber shrinks. Happens to most brands.

Are you sure the stem is not pulling out of the lower bracket. What you are describing used to happen on the Gasser`s all the time. Which were broken. Good luck.

Find a rubber boot for the air box. A sock is not going to make it run better, in fact probably worse. Reproduction. https://www.ebay.com/i/112480199125?chn=ps

650 cc of 10/30 is fine.

By chance, did you adjust the idle since the repair?

Remember the replacement center bolt has to be the hollow one from gas gas as this is a vent.

Too much oil or the bottom bolt is not centered.

Just to clarify it is not a torx and you should strip it down to make it easier and to clean the crap that is in the spring. By the way the center bolt should be hollow. I would not use loctite.

That analogy is flat out silly, I have seen brand new out of the crate bikes vibrate on the side stand!!!!!

The weight really does not matter. What actually started the engine rebuild in the first place?

No, the center cases have to be opened. Top ends do not vibrate. Since you had a loose needle bearing, I would do rod and mains. The bike is 44 years old. The only reason I would take the time to do it is it could go another 40.

maybe 12 point 7mm socket.

Yes you have to take the clutch apart to get to the center bolt that holds it on. After the bolt is removed it just comes straight out, sometimes not easily.

First give the bike a good clean, chances are you are going to split the cases. The video of adjusting the cam on the spring is exactly where to go next. If you are lucky the top hat just sheared the little tab in the end of the shift shaft. Usually it ends up being a new shift shaft. Lucky you.

To clean a carb takes no parts. The carb needs help not parts. Have you ever cleaned a carb?

So have you changed the main bearings? Pistons do not make any vibration. Rods and mains cause vibration.

You should stay off topics that have nothing to do with your old engine. Everything about a ty 250 mono is different from your old bike. We are talking about an engine that came out in 1984, not 1974. And by the way Dannyboi the TY250R had a standard bore of 68. So you would want at least a 68.25.

mid atlantic trials