lineaway

I plan on cutting mine out. I ordered a new spring just in case. I have ridden 2 events since I discovered this problem.

I had the same problem the last time I did my seals about 45 days ago. Try about 340cc and call it good till you have time to fix it. I might get around to it myself this coming weekend

You might consider a new OKO carb.

That is the one. Just turn off your gas and lean it over to fill.

I would pull off the exhaust header and take a quick look to see if the rings are now stuck. You will know by how the piston looks.

std bore on the ytz250 is 68. 68.25 would be much better than going to 70mm. Leaving it at 68mm is probably not the best for performance or longevity.

Sure you don`t need a 67.25 or a 67.5. Chances are a thirty year old bike could need a bore. By the way a YTZ250 piston will work.

A hot saw blade vs the plastic insert. The question is will the inserts come off without damaging them? Update, I forgot the insert is actually held in place by screws.

With all the Beta's in the UK you would think someone might have one. I tried a stiffer one and it was just too harsh.

My little boy is 6` 5`` and 230. But, you are above average! I take it you are not in the states?

You got to be pretty big to need stiffer front. So did you already get a heavier rear?

Go to the owners manual for the correct level, not capacity.

Nicked the piston. The rings are now stuck. Pull the exhaust and look at the piston.

I am sure he removed the bolt, which is the detent for the kick start sleeve. Now it has to come apart and be reassembled properly. Which means removing the clutch. People do this all the time. Not reading the service manual before they start removing bolts. Beta keeps this well hidden under the mid pipe. It is not hard to fix, just time consuming. In fact it sometimes can be done just pushing the KS pedal halfway down and ibstalling the detent. But since he opened the case, the whole thing is better off coming apart. Great way to get to know your new bike.

Both of your levers are mounted in the wrong position. Self induced problem.

Page 30 of your owners manual. Minimum of 1mm. With no free play the piston in the m/c does not travel far enough to work.

No doubt the oring chain is a better chain. Install it and push it for 100 meters. That chain is robbing you of power, every time you take off. I will not go into excess weight too, but that heavy chain puts a strain on the transmission. Never put that thing on a Gas Gas.

Standard chain on a trials bike.

Well what Mexican recomended a chop saw? You are out if your league. Send it to a compentent shop.

After almost 4 hours of riding today, it did the job perfectly. I was worried about it slipping when the engine heated up after hours. It is the best I have ever had a Beta clutch. It actually has a positive realease when you pull in the clutch with one finger. No more slughtly lingering drag Granted my clutch was better than most in the first place. But I am tired of the little stalls while hopping or when landing a nose wheelie. Now it us quicker as the realease zone is smaller. But eveything is positive about it. I went with the .5 mm amount of shim due to the plates are 3 years old and I wanted to see results. It only takes 15 - 20 minutes to change it again. We have a full day event tomorrow and I do ride our Exoert class. But we also have a Master and Champ (Pro) above that, so our Expert is not our top class like it was years ago. Should be a great test day!

And all this goes back to what fuel and oil you burn and how clean your intake stays. I have seen hundreds of cranks through the years and not all oils leave the lower end nice and neat.

I have a `16 that certainly has some time on it. I had not even thought of mains yet, but it could happen soon. I had a 2010 that I had to put mains in just before I bought the `16. Somewhere along the way the newer bikes come with the bearing shields left in the bearing. So the original factory grease is supposed to lube the bearing for life. Ha, that is not going to happen. That is why you run two stroke oil. There are plenty of 40 year old two strokes running around on the original mains. Dumb idea thinking they could make bearings better by not letting two stroke mix lube them.

It removes the slack from the non adjusting movement. 100% better for me, but some would say no improvement. But rarely can I ride such people's bikes as the set up is so poor. Everyone has always complained about Beta and the ever slight clutch drag. It has cost me probably 100 fives since I started riding Beta in 1990.

You just install the shims between the two washers that sit between the pressure plate and the flat washers. Usually #18 and #32 in the parts diagram. Some experimenting will be needed as the video shows anywhere from 0.1 mm and 0.5 is needed. My bike does well with 0.5, I might even try 0.75mm next week. I used shims from KTM Part number 50180032. I believe they were shims from a Free ride rear shock.

Beta clutch drag can be easily fixed by shimming the clutch push rods excessive free play. This video has been around forever.