lineaway

The plates are probably just stuck together. Point it in a good direction and ride it with the clutch pulled in until it releases. It helps to use the brakes and/or a wheelie or two. Sometimes takes 10-15 minutes.

The Gas Gas pro model has always been hard to start. It takes a technique, you cannot just kick it over and over again. One of the issues, it only has a partial kick start gear shaped in a half moon. In fact my last Gas Gas was bought from a guy that could not start it and he makes his living riding bikes hundreds of miles a week. The 55 pilot is a step in the right direction. Helps to get the piston to top dead center, then a very quick short kick, You also always need to make sure the kick start gears are engaged or the gears will chip.

Nothing will bleed in either direction if there is no free play at the lever, which is usually the problem in the first place.

Bullylover is spot on that it is in the pilot circuit. Better to waste a few hours working on the carb than throwing money at a bike that looks better just sitting than running.

You are basically carrying your wheelie over it. You have to hit lower on the rock with the front tire.

If the water pump and fan work correctly, no head gasket leaks and no water in oil or no oil in coolant. The only two things left is a blockage or air lock.

So you have a fan issue. Did you ever just hook a battery to the fan? So when you checked the impellor, did it spin when you kicked the motor? Did you try spinning it with your finger? The threads can strip, so they never push enough coolant.

Did you ever get the fan spinning at idle?

I`d go with 475 or 500, depending on your container size to get two oil changes out of it. The 550 was a dry motor.

The 1993 engine was completely different.

Maybe time penalty vs actual score.

I thought `93 was the first year of case induction on the 250?

Dan, they have plenty of grunt in the bikes. Thier bikes are basically an SS model. Just no go.

Buy a tank shell.

Actually those that do well in trials do so 110% confident that they can do it. It does not matter if it is the correct method, technique or style. A clean is a clean no matter how ugly. It is all mental for the most part as the geometry of the bikes are able to make it over most anything.

Sprinter 27 advice makes a lot of sense with the cold weather. You could also raise the needle (Which is dropping the clip) That is the easiest and cheapest route, besides it changes the jetting all in the right direction. If you have the time I would do a quick carb clean just to verify the jets are clear and nothing is building up in the bowl. Make sure to note the jet sizes. You could easily go up one pilot jet size without rocking the boat too much. Good luck.

Myself, folding levers are a waste of money and feel like crap. I would just throw them in for spares. Proper lever setup is critical on a trials bike. We had a guy recently use these and he posted the link.

Sounds like you need a carb clean to start with. Pay attention to the pilot jet and circuit. Make sure the needle and seat is good and working.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Pivot-Brake-Clutch-Levers-Control-Levers-For-AJP-PR3-PR4-PR5-Titanium/132394024795

should have asked a Beta dealer.

I would bet your floats are sticking and is running out the over flow tubes. Mine does it every so often.

Any Evo out turns a Rev 3. (In fact an Evo out turns about anything) No reason to waste time as the Evo has been around ten years now.

Night and day. 2013 and newer.

Yeah, I made the springs 2 years ago after I severed the tendon in my index finger. My finger is stronger now and I was going to put the stock springs back in to work my finger some more. I always knew about the adjustment, but while changing them out I decided one step at a time instead of jumping in head first. On another note I recall years ago there was a video showing adjustment shims available for the clutch. It was to take up the slack of the push rod. This was all in Japanese , but it was a Beta part number on the shims.

So what happened in 2013? Personally I think Dan will not find a solution. I think it`s all in the shifting and the way the clutch works (Or it is not working) is the issue. I think with the slight drag of the clutch it is not fully engaging. I have always paid great attention upon entering a section that my bike is fully engaged in gear. I will shift two or three times to make sure of this, especially if there is a large up. I am not doubting the bikes are popping out of gear. But I think the problem lies on never being fully in gear, not which newer part is going to fix this. Just last Saturday I went to put the stock springs back in my bike (I have been running a lighter set I made). I realized I could just flip the top caps around to get a stiffer clutch as mine is so light you cannot tell where the free play ends. Sure enough, right away I could feel the difference in the lever and quite a bit of notchiness in the transmission. I imagine with the stock springs it would just be worse. I think the problem is clutch drag, not the shifter. Maybe need to experiment with clutch pack thickness.