lineaway

In the real world, adjustment needs to be a straight wheel and chain. You might make sure everything lines up. The snail cam marks are just for reference.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/chain-tension-adjustment-noob-question.875147/ you might take a pic of your rear wheel set up. what were you doing when things went bad?

You cannot see the guard is not square. Let me hold my light closer.

Seems you have the chain too tight? Eh? Like I said, better off loose.

Not looking at no picture. I have had many of the apart.

Actually the noise could be the shifter as it is not all the way on the shaft.

I think there were two plastic rivits that hold the guard square. Also your shifter sits too low.

Yeah. And the guard does not ride straight.

Look at your first picture. The swingarm guard is loose and you are missing the screw that holds it in place properly. The guard looks to be riding all wrong. Remember when on the bike the chain rides different. Too loose of chain is better than too tight.

The flywheel shears as the engine shuts down. Pull the exhaust header. Look at the piston and rings. You have likely nipped the piston. The cylinder should still be good, but new piston and rings. P.S. Hydrochloric acid can clean up the aluminum in the cylinder.

Bet there was not a change. Old sprockets 3.8 gearing, new is 3.9. Of course I am with you at 4.2.

Get a ride on one. They have lots of power compared to the old Sherco`s. They turn ok, but I think they feel cramped. Like you are to far forward. But everyone is different on likes/dislikes.

Chances are the friction plates have come apart. Only thing to do is pull the clutch apart and see. Just lay the bike over on the left side, pop off the round clutch cover which has an oring. Take the 6 bolts and springs out and remove the plates. Good chance the friction material has separated from the steel.

Kick start sleeve and stop bolt would be my first place to look. Go to Beta USA support page and look at the parts diagram for the starter.

Depends on the years, but 300cc was the norm.

That is strange. Almost seemd he is running too small of tube.

You can buy a tube type tire. You could buy a tubeless rim. Or you could just screw the tire to the rim. ( The old tried and true method of us old cheap B`s.)

Maybe December at Oak Flat`s if I can talk my son into it.

This section that Billy T. Wrote saved me at the UTE CUP this year. I have read this dozens of times. My Keihin had stuck the floats which caused me to run out of fuel. I needed a real fix to not happen again. I could not believe I remembered this while in a panic not to DNF. `We will now set the little tab that sticks out perpendicular on the brass tangs. The purpose of this tab is to stop the actual travel of the tangs downwards. This is important, as it will alleviate many anomalies once set correctly. One must know that the small pointed plunger that the brass tangs pushes up acts like a light switch. The gas is either on or off. With this in mind one need only have this plunger move enough to allow the gas to flow freely and then close when the tangs act upon it pushing up. Think of this! When you land off a large rock the weight of the floats push quite rapidly down inside the float bowl. This is known as gravity. The extended movement of the floats downwards tends to do two things. It moves the floats way down inside the float bowl allowing more gas than needed and it also causes some of the excess gas to be pushed up into the jets and into the engine. It also if not set correctly allows the float tangs to travel down to far. It is kind of like being inside a fast moving elevator and when it reaches this bottom it kind of makes you bend your knees. In other words the elevator has stopped but you are still going downwards. So how do you set this travel tab? Adjusting the travel tab on the carb will not stop the floats from going down but it will stop the float level tangs from travelling all the way down. This is important as the further they travel the more they are likely to stick.` Thanks Billy!

http://trialsport.com.au/beta/Manuals/mikuni/

Did you remove the top hat with the spring attached in place with zip ties. That is the way it comes as new. To some this is a small price just to make sure. It can be hard to install otherwise, but I have got it done before. But yes a small piece floating around can be a problem too. Good luck as I hate when you have the engine split and the problem is not jumping out at you.

In 2013 it was a long meeting as there were many new rules that year. Including the riders were not allowed to walk the section the day of the event. Tbe one I do remember was just because the spokes stopped turning does not mean they had stopped. In 2017 I don't remember the Saturdag meeting, because I was tbe scspegoat for the Sunday am meeting. I had a very dangerous section and I had let a sec ond minder assist the riders. Fortunatly they changed my section over night which put the minders corridor in just the right spot that another riders minder could help without being in the section. Several times we had spectators almost run over with crashing bikes. If you ever get the chance to read the full rules, there are many ways to five a section without ever riding it. You can also slide your foot forever and it id just a dab. Someone should video a scorers meeting.

Usually it is pretty obvious with the rollers. Usually a broken side plate. I have seen people swear the top hat was fine, but was broken.

If Bou got a 5 for every stop he has made since 2013, then Dougie would still be King.

Looks the same scoring to me! About the 5 minute mark 5 riders in a row.