lineaway

Dan, they have plenty of grunt in the bikes. Thier bikes are basically an SS model. Just no go.

Buy a tank shell.

Actually those that do well in trials do so 110% confident that they can do it. It does not matter if it is the correct method, technique or style. A clean is a clean no matter how ugly. It is all mental for the most part as the geometry of the bikes are able to make it over most anything.

Sprinter 27 advice makes a lot of sense with the cold weather. You could also raise the needle (Which is dropping the clip) That is the easiest and cheapest route, besides it changes the jetting all in the right direction. If you have the time I would do a quick carb clean just to verify the jets are clear and nothing is building up in the bowl. Make sure to note the jet sizes. You could easily go up one pilot jet size without rocking the boat too much. Good luck.

Myself, folding levers are a waste of money and feel like crap. I would just throw them in for spares. Proper lever setup is critical on a trials bike. We had a guy recently use these and he posted the link.

Sounds like you need a carb clean to start with. Pay attention to the pilot jet and circuit. Make sure the needle and seat is good and working.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Pivot-Brake-Clutch-Levers-Control-Levers-For-AJP-PR3-PR4-PR5-Titanium/132394024795

should have asked a Beta dealer.

I would bet your floats are sticking and is running out the over flow tubes. Mine does it every so often.

Any Evo out turns a Rev 3. (In fact an Evo out turns about anything) No reason to waste time as the Evo has been around ten years now.

Night and day. 2013 and newer.

Yeah, I made the springs 2 years ago after I severed the tendon in my index finger. My finger is stronger now and I was going to put the stock springs back in to work my finger some more. I always knew about the adjustment, but while changing them out I decided one step at a time instead of jumping in head first. On another note I recall years ago there was a video showing adjustment shims available for the clutch. It was to take up the slack of the push rod. This was all in Japanese , but it was a Beta part number on the shims.

So what happened in 2013? Personally I think Dan will not find a solution. I think it`s all in the shifting and the way the clutch works (Or it is not working) is the issue. I think with the slight drag of the clutch it is not fully engaging. I have always paid great attention upon entering a section that my bike is fully engaged in gear. I will shift two or three times to make sure of this, especially if there is a large up. I am not doubting the bikes are popping out of gear. But I think the problem lies on never being fully in gear, not which newer part is going to fix this. Just last Saturday I went to put the stock springs back in my bike (I have been running a lighter set I made). I realized I could just flip the top caps around to get a stiffer clutch as mine is so light you cannot tell where the free play ends. Sure enough, right away I could feel the difference in the lever and quite a bit of notchiness in the transmission. I imagine with the stock springs it would just be worse. I think the problem is clutch drag, not the shifter. Maybe need to experiment with clutch pack thickness.

Have you checked if the impeller even works? Good chance it is just spinning on the shaft or corroded. Also if is this bad the head could be leaking. The reservoir could be made from just about any bottle off any old bike. The fan running permanently is not really a problem. If it has been looked at before, they probably determined it was not worth fixing.

That is why the other guy suggested a 9 tooth. It just bolts on and very close gearing at 4.3 vs 4.2.

Yep, pull your exhaust pipe off the cylinder. Take a quick look. Minimum, stuck rings.

Well I was replying to a new rider that was worried about his new bike. Their was a bulletin on the `13, but you state that you never fixed yours. I regress as I did not point out that I did have to replace a frame and swing arm. Of all years it was a 2002 rev 3. I was a Beta dealer for 12 years and I have never installed or sold a stator. But I believe most of the stators that have failed was due to moisture. I certainly don`t have an issue with you trying to fix your bike. Just trying not to panic rider`s from a problem that has not been found. I do believe in sharing information that helps riders. For the most part the Beta transmission is mostly the same design as when the TR32 came out. I do find it interesting that by using ATF all these years that I have not seemed to have any of the clutch/transmission issues.

Put large washers on the front fender mounts or buy a gas gas mount and front fender. I have always used ATF in the 14 Beta`s that I have owned.

I have ridden Beta since 1990. Never any bad issues. Also I have always ran ATF. Never a clutch problem either. In 2013 there was a tech bulletin from Beta addressing shifting issues, which I can no longer find. On page 82 of this thread is another post back in April `13 with the same issue.

Now that you have impaled yourself, your mind should always take that millisecond it takes to slow down and kick it right. 3 layers of stitches and a drain. I bled for thirty days. 1992 Beta zero.

It not the threads, it swells slightly with the fuel. Total crap. The Sherco/Scorpa caps and TRS caps have venting issues.

Practicing on one leg is not the answer. Are you holding the brakes on? You need to, and you balance by pushing with your legs. Peg pressure is how you actually turn too. Having someone hold the rear tire until you get the feel of it, or just rest the front tire partially on a wall. It is peg pressure and just a slight adjustment with the bars. When you get better, take time to move the bars to the left or to the right. Try to be just as good in either direction.

First gear is also terribly low on the Beta. Using second more can help make up for the motor.

They are not separate weights. They are whole parts that weigh more. The clutch basket and primary gear is one set. Not a removable part. Any of this is not a cheap fix.

G.B. spec bikes have several heavier parts. You can find them in the parts break down. In the USA Beta sells a bike called the SS ie Super Smooth. We call it the super slow. Basically a G.B. spec bike. For 80 % of the riders in the UK, the GB spec bike is appropriate for the wet sections. The style of riding between a Gas Gas and a Beta is quite different. I love how a Gasser rides, but I score better on a Beta.