lineaway

Both of your levers are mounted in the wrong position. Self induced problem.

Page 30 of your owners manual. Minimum of 1mm. With no free play the piston in the m/c does not travel far enough to work.

No doubt the oring chain is a better chain. Install it and push it for 100 meters. That chain is robbing you of power, every time you take off. I will not go into excess weight too, but that heavy chain puts a strain on the transmission. Never put that thing on a Gas Gas.

Standard chain on a trials bike.

Well what Mexican recomended a chop saw? You are out if your league. Send it to a compentent shop.

After almost 4 hours of riding today, it did the job perfectly. I was worried about it slipping when the engine heated up after hours. It is the best I have ever had a Beta clutch. It actually has a positive realease when you pull in the clutch with one finger. No more slughtly lingering drag Granted my clutch was better than most in the first place. But I am tired of the little stalls while hopping or when landing a nose wheelie. Now it us quicker as the realease zone is smaller. But eveything is positive about it. I went with the .5 mm amount of shim due to the plates are 3 years old and I wanted to see results. It only takes 15 - 20 minutes to change it again. We have a full day event tomorrow and I do ride our Exoert class. But we also have a Master and Champ (Pro) above that, so our Expert is not our top class like it was years ago. Should be a great test day!

And all this goes back to what fuel and oil you burn and how clean your intake stays. I have seen hundreds of cranks through the years and not all oils leave the lower end nice and neat.

I have a `16 that certainly has some time on it. I had not even thought of mains yet, but it could happen soon. I had a 2010 that I had to put mains in just before I bought the `16. Somewhere along the way the newer bikes come with the bearing shields left in the bearing. So the original factory grease is supposed to lube the bearing for life. Ha, that is not going to happen. That is why you run two stroke oil. There are plenty of 40 year old two strokes running around on the original mains. Dumb idea thinking they could make bearings better by not letting two stroke mix lube them.

It removes the slack from the non adjusting movement. 100% better for me, but some would say no improvement. But rarely can I ride such people's bikes as the set up is so poor. Everyone has always complained about Beta and the ever slight clutch drag. It has cost me probably 100 fives since I started riding Beta in 1990.

You just install the shims between the two washers that sit between the pressure plate and the flat washers. Usually #18 and #32 in the parts diagram. Some experimenting will be needed as the video shows anywhere from 0.1 mm and 0.5 is needed. My bike does well with 0.5, I might even try 0.75mm next week. I used shims from KTM Part number 50180032. I believe they were shims from a Free ride rear shock.

Beta clutch drag can be easily fixed by shimming the clutch push rods excessive free play. This video has been around forever.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/how-to-correct-beta-clutch-drag.1375397/

Is your shifter hitting something.

The St300 akways had a problem cheaper to move on.

I have to laugh as the first time I saw one I declined the work. The rod was good, but the guy insisted on a new rod.?

So it is the price of a rod verses the crank price. If it was mine it would be done already.

Not everyone has a competitive spirit and not everyone has a fun club to enjoy the sport with. It is amazing how many people buy trials bikes and do not compete. The biggest thrill of a trials bike is you can go about anywhere (hopefully legal areas.) It is far easier to ride hard trail on a trials bike, no matter your skill level. I had always hoped at some point I had enough time to mix my riding skills with remote camping, fishing, exploring, etc. Do what makes you have the most fun. Lucky for us we have a trials club that enjoys camping as much as riding/competing.

At that point, 3 in three years means you have some other issue.

Have you replaced the shaft? The seal should last many years.

Well if you are looking at it, you should be able to tell if you are tooled up enough to do it. The last time I looked at one I passed as I did not want to screw with someone elses crank. If it was mine, I might of tried. I have done a few dozen over the years, but all solid cranks.

Being my Japanese is non existant, I am hoping for better clutch action. As eliminating clutch drag and a better hitting clutch. I have known about the shim trick for years , but could never find them thin enough till recently.

The newer bikes have plastic inserts instead of a full crank. Which makes it difficult with out the right set up.

I am going back to the guys that seem to know what they are doing. My shims should be in Tuesday, http://wise-motosports.ocnk.net/

What size tire and make? Missing the speedo drive?

You have the floats upside down.