mcman56

The Reflex does not use the battery for the ignition system so you do not need to look there.

The AHRMA rule book states: 13.2.6 ALL MODIFICATIONS MUST BE CONSISTENT WITH THE SPIRIT OF THE CLASS. Period modifications have been extensively documented and machines with obvious non-period or excessive modifications will be disqualified or required to compete in the next-higher-level class. Where would one find this extensive documentation for a premier trials bike frame as in C15? Would a home made Otter frame be legal?

Mr Broony...do you have any pics of the modified motor mounts? Did you have to remove the bottom frame rails? What about the lower engine mounts? Thanks

It will be pressed in place. The standard method is to use a special puller. However, if you have access to a mill, a carbide end mill cuts those bearings easily. I cut one area to a very thin wall and then split them with a chisel.

I'm looking at an 02 200 Pro model. At BDC, the piston is still about 3/32" above the floor of the exhaust port. Is that normal? I expected them to be close to even.

Yes, it is the pedal end that is close. Does anyone know how to remove the pedal? It looks trapped in place by the swingarm. Do you just need a skinny wrench to get in there?

Where can I get a copy of the "rebuild tech sheet"?

My original chain would periodically touch the brake pedal so I assumed the pedal had been bent in slightly. I just installed an RK O-ring chain (GB520MXU) and could feel some more serious rubbing. I reversed the master link and used some channel lock pliers to bend the end of the pedal out slightly. There is now zero rubbing. But....channel lock pliers seem like one of the tools that would have a different name in the UK.

There should be a torque setting for the bolts but it will be pretty low. Nothing springs out when you back off and remove the bolts. The plate should come out evenly. I would pull them out to make sure each location has the same spacers or whatever that model came with. Springs will not have exactly the same tension so you will be able to swap their locations to get a more even movement. It is a trial and error process but can produce good results.

I used a band saw to cut an X across the pads and then rounded the sharp edge with a file. This reduced he initial "grabbyness" on my REV3. If you change pads, it should be for a softer pad like one of the organics.

You can try raising the needle and possibly a bigger pilot jet.

Used top end assemblies show up on ebay periodically.

I decided to give it a try. Previously, I was running a 22mm Keihin from a TLR200. It ran OK but did not idle well so I had to run a pretty high tickover speed. The Mikuni idles much much better at quite a low speed. Mid and high range are maybe OK but could be better. Is there someone who has sorted this or something similar before?

Can you explain your reference to a hacksaw? I have seen pictures of bikes with the lower frame tubes removed but this bike has a sump plate that actually hangs down lower than the frame so I don't see how that would help. I also ride in areas with lots of rocks and things to bang on the bottom.

I have a C15 with Alpina forks and 13 1/2" shocks. The frame is a 1960 C15S, gooseneck type and I struggle with the lack of ground clearance. It is 2 or 3 inches shorter than a TLR200. I also have a spare, later model, C15C frame. Do these later model competition frames have more ground clearance? How do others deal with this lack of clearance? Probably due to the offset Bultaco forks, it turns pretty well so I'm reluctant to just jack up the back end. Plus, I don't have that much ground clearance myself.

I just did this work on a 2008. Clutch travel was 0.05" (1.27 mm). Runout was 0.005" TIR. To measure runout, I put the indicator near the OD of the pressure plate. With the clutch pulled in and the bike in gear, I rotated the back wheel to get the plate to spin. This is not a machined surface so I think 0.005 is quite good. The clutch worked OK but would not change gears when stopped. It was also stuck at start up. I have not ridden it enough to see if it is now different. If I remember correctly, my 2002 Sherco had 0.04" of travel. Update: I have ridden the bike a bit now. The clutch no longer sticks at start up and it is easier to change gears when not moving. With two springs out, the pull is a bit easier. It is also a bit noiser as the article warns.

I had a 2002. It had a pretty heavy flywheel so the power was very smooth. That is why I bought it but it copuld make it feel slow. There was a huge gap between 3rd and 4th gear that made any type of trail riding a little awkward. You may just be expecting too much from a trials bike. Compared to an enduro bike, I find that trials bikes have the bottom end power of an open class bike with a big flywheel, OK mid range and no top end.

Is the main jet the correct size? Could it have been drilled out to a larger size? Could you have somthing in the air box that becomes a restriction at high air flows? Is the issue above 75% under load? I once had a bike that ran fine and picked up rpm well with no load but would miss under moderate to heavy load. It turned out to be a wire under the flywheel with worn insulation. Underload, there was less resistance to jump from wire to ground than there was to spark the plug.

Is the smoke black or blueish white? 75%+ should be main jet territory.

Is this something that would fit through the oil filling hole? Do you have small kids that like to play near your bike?

Another option is bronze bushes with grease fittings. I have done this successfully on Gas Gas and Sherco. There were no seals and the concept was that the grease would push out water and dirt. Here are a couple of work in process pics. (They have not been cleaned up yet.) On Sherco, there was enough clearance on the front to thread from the front rather than the bottom and use a regular 90 degree nipple type fitting. This shows a needle type grease fitting.

Has anyone tried the Mikuni off a Beta on a C15 or other Pre-65? The 26 mm size seems somewhat appropriate but I'm wondering if jetting would be a major effort.

I had a similar event. After cleaning the carb many many times, I found that it was actually the stator. There are some resistance numbers you can check to verify the stator.

I have successfully used Marine Goop. It bonds all sorts of plastic. The marine variety works much better than the other varieties. http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives.htm

The Sherco data shows the 125 and 250 with the same bore and stoke. Does that mean the 250 is a twin?