laser1

The pilot jet meters the fuel for the air screw and progression circiut. If you want to let in more air, you will need to let in more fuel. You need a larger pilot jet.

Someone here posted these video's awhile bac and you can also find them on the trialspartsusa website. See about 5 minutes in on vid#5. http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/

Given that these swingarms take a tremendous pounding on a regular basis on thousands of bikes, My bet would be that this could be traced to is a casting defect.

Sump Guard? Looks like the pipe guard / heat shield is painted red if thats what you mean.

+1 on Jon's suggestion. I ran 650cc of GM autotrak - transfer case fluid (blue stuff) in my edition. It seemed to shift better than when usung ATF. Also, if you pull the plates and check them for condition/flatness - give the steel plates a quick sanding to roughen the plate surface. Clean up the edges of the plates (where the fingers hit the basket) while your at it . This helps prevent the plates from sticking. When your clutch is working well again, you might want to try taking 2 opposing clutch springs out. Gives it a nice light/progressive pull. Just make sure you check that its not slipping under load. Mine didnt slip that I could tell - but I dont do 3rd gear splatters either.

Another possibility for lack of enough fuel under sustained load is to check for a restricted fuel vent. Easy to check for by comparing gas flow with/without cap on.

Low Octane gas and/or Lean Jetting will cause that. Your smart to head it off as it can lead to big problems.

I had a similar problem on my 08 250. The ID of the tank opening was about 0.050" undersize and wasnt finished machined (rough edge on top ID surface) - no anodizing either. The cap would barely fit into the tank and the seal would leak at the back edge. My dealer swapped out the tank and now its fine. If its not a simple tension adjustment like JSE suggested, it may be possible there is another few bad tanks floating around. You may want to compare it with another GG to see how they should look and measure.

You can purchase HD springs for the Shock/Fork - aprox 20% stiffer than stock. I have the HD shock spring on my 08 and it feels great on the bigger hits. May be tough getting them to ship to SA, but you can try here: http://www.lewisportusa.com/index.htm

what mods did you do to the 300 to make it work for you?

Was told to use 140nm from an 06 owner, and that agrees with the Techno spec. It will be on there alright.

Hi - buddy of mine with a 07 Beta 270 needs the proper spec for the torque on the flywheel nut. (Sheared Key) He couldnt find it listed in his manual. I used the TC search function and found a few responses for techno's, (140nm - seems pretty high), and didnt see threads with listed figures for the rev 3 (lots of threads on sheared keys - but no numbers that I found) . Anyone have the factory spec for the 07 270. Thanks for your help.

I find the naming conventions used on several of the bikes rather amusing. I wonder what the actual displacement the 350 will be. Why not call a 342 a 342? (sounds better anyway IMO)

You need to get the shutter speed up (faster) or the moving object will be blurry. try at least 1/400th of a second or faster to start. You can work down from there. You also have to have the object in focus or it will be "soft". In low light, the photo will be underexposed when you force a higher shutter speed to stop the action. You can capture more light for a given shutter speed if you use a "faster" lens - ie, a lens with a very wide max aperture. (like the previous poster suggested) usually F2.8 or better. OR, you can turn up the gain on the sensor - a higher ISO. Or both when in poor conditions. In low light, you will probably need to use ISO 800 to ISO 1600 along with a "fast" lens in order to get the shutter speed high enough. I believe this camera has AUTO iso, so if your in Tv mode (uses a set stutter speed and varies aperture to yield correct exposure) and set the speed to say 1/400 of a second, the ISO will automatically adjust to the lowest value to obtain the desired speed. If you have a slow lens, you will have to use a cooresponding LONG shutter time or slow speed. MISC tips: Take the picture at the peak of a jump and the rider will be going slower that the runup. , Learn to pan - move the camera along with the rider, while using a slow shutter speed. , use a powerfull external flash. - EX series are far more flexible, but pricey. worth it if your into it. Use the center AF point ONLY - for faster AF response - especially with a fast lens. (better accuracy as well) I personally use a combination of higher ISO, and alittle flash (fill) for trials (I dont have a fast wide angle lens) Becarefull, Too much flash and you wash everything out in the foreground and get a dark background. Also - get good at photoshop and you can work wonders as long as the pic wasnt too blurry to begin with. Oh yah - read the manual for the camera. they have all sorts of good info in them for better pics. Good luck and have fun

gasgasgj - are you referring to premix oil or tranny/clutch fluids? I was assuming you were talking about what to use in the transmission/clutch.

That would be ATF-type F. Its red and recomended by GG. Im not familiar with Castrol Actevo, but just in case, Do not use 100% synthetic oil.

Forget what Jon says, I would ONLY take advice from this guy.... http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/gas.html Seriously, Its nice to have GG experts on the TC site. BTW - they are one and the same if you didnt know IJ.

Yes - The pro's need higher octane than 87 - min 95. Even then, in hot conditions under load you can get detonation so mixing in some race gas is common. Since it's been awhile since you had a modern bike, I'll also ask what fuel/oil ratio are your running? 80:1 to 100:1 with 100% synthetic is the norm nowadays.

2009 Raga? Didnt think they showed up till April 09 .

Can you swap the carb off your friends bike to rule out other potential problems? At the same time you could confirm the jetting/float settings. I take it you have ruled out simple things like if your bike has a slow throttle and theres are fast. I thought a friends bike had low power one time and it was just that.

I think you made the correct decision. The unhappy riders should send there letters to the biased observer who "purposely" mucked things up in the 1st place.

PM sent

so where's the cherry 125? Sounds like a good way to go!

so where's the cherry 125? Sounds like a good way to go!

My hebo's seem ok in the toe box - but shy in the calf room dept. I think you really need to try several brands and see for yourself about the best fit.