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Most of the bike is shared with the 2 stroke models, worth looking on splatshop's site to see what is available. Sherco is very good at making improvements to parts & continuing with the same part number if it interchanges
2005 was the first model 320 from memory & it was far from sorted, I can remember the importer at the time here in New Zealand having the engine die a lot when hopping the front wheel. The later carb mods improved that as well as hot starting
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If it's like most steel framed bikes the bolt should fit into what is called a nut clip at the back end of the tank, should be easy to get. Sounds like there is something missing in your kickstart assembly
https://www.splatshop.co.uk/m6-nut-clip.html
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Rev3 Beta & from memory early Jotagas
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KX80 carb by chance? A JJH needle available from any trials dealer is a good start
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I can't see it, they seem to be trying to sort a European/Spanish world championship rumored to run into January at the moment which they'll use as being able to justify the cost
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I have am electrexworld ignition in my 250C, works well & easy fit but you're best to set the timing with a strobe light as per there instructions. 1 thing I did find was that the hole in the centre of the stator plate didn't clear the seal housing & I've had to have some minor turning done to correct this, did a 3 day event with it before I had the chance to sort that including checking the timing & it was great apart from some pinking climbing hills between sections due to being over advanced
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Yes, this is the way that they fit inside the gearbox shaft
Have a look at this link, part #18 in the illustration is the ball that sits on the end of the pushrod & can fall out when #10 is removed
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1974/ty250a/clutch
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There was a TS400, pretty sure they was a huge range of sizes from 50/75cc up to 400cc with the 250 being the basis of the RL250 motor
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As long as you get the proper o-rings they should seal properly without needing anything extra
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John Cane at tytrials sell a complete kit for the swingarm for when the pin & bush rust together, I think B&J Racing in the states should also be able to help.
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TY is the better bike, the RL is lighter in the front end & frames are known to crack around the swingarm plates. Parts for the TY are also easier to get
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If the forks are tech brand then going off splatshop's listing the thread will be M18x1.5, the older Paioli forks used M17x1.5
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Maximum fork diameter of 38mm means fiddle forks are allowed, what diameter were the last of the Fantic & spanish twinshock forks?
My TY250 works really well with all the parts majesty yamaha sells for the forks now that I have had the top of the sliders bushed to get rid of the wear, rear suspension is laid forward to majesty specs & running a set of rebuilt Fox-shox trials shocks, swingarm has also been lengthened 1 1/2". Quite an enjoyable bike to ride & still looks period
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Sherco updates parts & keeps the same part number if the parts are interchangeable, very possible that the radius at the bottom of the tube was a change made between when the replacement tube was made & your original tube was made
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As long it's a genuine Oko & not a chinese knock off it's as good as a keihin, my experience with the 1 on my sherco is that they aren't as sensitive to weather changes
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Often if both plugs actually fired it was because the head design was not the best.
My CZ race bike ran twin plugs standard, only 1 was connected to the points & the second plug fired just after. Combustion chamber is a trench at the back of the cylinder on both 250 & open class machines
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Being a 270 the Beta may be a bit much powerwise but you'd need to have a decent ride on it to find out. The Mont has the reputation of being really hard to find traction for a lot of riders, you really need to try both bikes to find which is easier to live with.
I'd steer clear of the 300 if you're a returning rider who has been away for a number of years although the price difference for a 8 year newer bike would be worth it. See if you can find a similar 250
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Lucky you didn't try petert's idea as you'd probably only be pushing on the bottoming cone & not the damper rod that sits inside it
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Try loosening the front axle & tighten it back up while holding the brake on, that will centre the brake to the hub
Best braking out of your drum involves having the shoes turned to the exact size of the drum, normally easier to do with new shoes
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Leave the advanced DVD until you've mastered everything from the other DVD
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If you're meaning where the ruler is sat then the only way is to replace the top tubes with new ones that go in a straight line from the front of the shock mounts instead of running parallel before angling in to the front
If you're a competent welder it shouldn't be too hard but you'll need to add a temporary brace to the lower tubes to keep the shock mounts in the right position
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Stalling on descents & wet plug would suggest too high a float height. Try starting it with the fuel off with a dry plug & no choke
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Another option is Electrexworld, I use their ignitions on my TY250C which uses the original flywheel & my CZ race bikes
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Ash,
Person you need to talk to is John Lawton in Paraparaumu, send me a pm & I'll give you his details
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Modified a set of standard top yokes which puts the bars midway between the steering stem nut & the fork tops, improved the steering by a lot on my 250. Steering head angle had been altered in 99 to match a 99 Beta so this bike goes exactly where it is pointed
Lots of other stuff done to lose weight & improve the riding experience
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