Yamaha

What is the best bolt on replacement carb for a standard TY175 ?

Am assisting with the rebuild of a TY 175 which when completed will be ridden in trials including the KIA series. What is the best set up for the frame and forks please, can the skinny leg 175 forks be made to work well, they operate smothly enough but seem very softly sprung with not much damping. The frame is totally standard what changes or improvements could be made to improve steering, handling, footrests etc or is it best left alone? Chain is 428 with 12t gearbox and 51t rear wheel sprockets fitted are these sizes a good choice, needs work before it can be ridden.

Gday All, As someone who is over getting rust out of a steel tank i thought it would be fun [torture] to see some photos of tank alternatives for TY175s. I really like the KATO shaped tanks....

Hi everyone new to the trials scene, I have bought a bike (TY250), but found a few problems. Mainly a very badly corroded wheel and spokes were so bad i had to grind the in half. Does any one know if they are still available. The rear rim is also badly corroded. Does anyone know if any other rim can be adapted to fit? Also need to find another shock absorber - can one be adapted from another model to fit? Any info on obtaining spares would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for pics of john hulme and mick Andrew's bikes, I cannot seem to find any other than John's bike on this site, any ideas?

Hey all, Hoping I can get some replies here! I’ve have a ‘74 TY250 for about a year. Took it out for a single ride other than up and down the road and around the property (moo), it was so much fun. Can’t wait for the upcoming season. two questions: 1. i purchased it for $1300. It came with an entire other bike’s worth of parts. Wheels and tires, gas tank, etc. All except the engine that was destroyed when it got wrapped around a tree. What’re your thoughts on that price for the bike and parts? I thought it was a steal. 2. I get voltage spikes on throttle and keep blowing bulbs. I replaced the condenser, contact breaker, and spark plug today and the th…

My TY175 rattles, it rattled before and it rattles now! It rattled a bit when I got it, after a few outings it got worse, so it all came apart. It was on it's last bore, so: Barrel was relined (by reputable person) and machined to fit a new Wiseco Piston. Crank had a new Conrod with new big and little end bearings. New piston pin. New Main bearings and seals All fitted together with care and new gaskets, twice! All the parts came from a reputable company, so I presume they're good quailty, tried and tested. Still the fecker rattles!! What's going on?? Everything's been checked and checked again (at great cost), I'm out of ideas! It shouldn't rattle, there's no…

I know its not a trials bike, but my 5 year old has got to start somewhere!!! anyway, got hold of it for free, needs a few bit & bobs, but my main problem is that the kickstart wont engage properly. 9/10 times it will just fly straight round without grabbing. if you tip the bike to the side, it sometimes engages, & the bike will start. any ideas anyone???

Hi all, I realise that this is not strictly trials related, but if I get it resolved then we may have another member of the trials riding fraternity!! I have acquired a PW50 which is old but essentially in pretty good nick. It was left standing for some time and no longer runs. I have flushed the tank, cleaned out the carb - which had filled with 'varnish' like old petrol deposits. Jets were partially obscured but have cleaned and blown through and all appear ok now. Electrics - there appears to be a spark but not a big fat one. Does anyone have any info on testing the electrics / coils on these things? Having 'googled' the issue I have tried disconecting the handle…

TY250/350 Monoshock: Loosening the bottom bolt, on the outside bottom of fork leg, also requires holding the inside damper rod, apparently at the bottom of the inside of damper rod. Top of damper rod doesn't have any visible hex ID. Manual and parts book refer to a special Yam tool part number (blank stare at the local dealer) but no idea of what it grabs into. Is it a hex, square, a 4 prong, or what? If I knew what size and shape I can weld something onto a long rod and reach down in there. Catch 22: can't get it apart without knowing what it looks like, can't see it until its apart. Any ideas or size and shape help? tks, kcj

Hello members, New to this forum and awaiting delivery of my first trials bike. I was able to download a PDF of a Parts Manual and now I need a basic "quick start" type owner's manual which covers the basic service requirements of the TY250a. I have never owned a motorcycle and can't wait to join this community. Thanks ahead.

I am just about to finish the rebuild of my TY175 engine, have had it bored and tightened the piston to cylinder clearance up, I intend careful running in and hope the better piston fit will quiten down the noisy engine. question is, has anyone experience with using a better quality oil to help prevent a seizure whilst piston is fully run in, I was thinking of Castrol A747 or XR77 just for the first ten or so hours of running (it also has new mains) any recommendations appreciated, ps I then intend running it on Castrol TTS (after flushing the castor based oil out of course).

I think my engine seriously needs rebuilding now, just wondering how much it would cost roughly? Say if it needed new big and little ends, main bearings + seals, new piston and a rebore? It's had a brand new clutch at some point which is in really good nick, I rebuilt it and all the friction plates, smooth plates and springs are actually oversized according to the manual, so it doesn't slip at all! I gearbox is sweet aswell, changes really smoothly.

I have just been reading an item in a book called The world of motorcycles about Mick Andrews, printed in 1977. A bit of history etc about his trials riding up to that date. At the end it says he is helping to develope a 4 stroke trials bike with Yamaha which will be popular in a few years. Anybody shed any light on this? Thanks.

I picked this up a few hours ago... I don't think it's a majesty but does have some obvious parts fitted The rain does believe it or not make it look better Anyways over to you guys...

Hello All, This is my first post on this forum so please bear with me. I have a74 ty250a that I am currently restoring. I am an automotive technician of 6 years and have my basics covered but this is really my first embarkation into the world of motorcycle mechanics. I have the cases split and had the crank assembly professionally rebuilt and I'm looking to re-assemble and having a hard time with the crank. As far as I can tell the crank will have to be pressed into the bearing, correct? I assume a pipe approximately equal to the inner race of the crank bearing should be used to support the case half and the crank should be pressed in one side first. What would I use …

Just done my first trial with the electronic ignition fitted along with a mate of mine who also fitted one at the same time.First and most important thing for me was the fact it was a hot day today and thats when my bike would always cut out,and it didnt.Going around the sections I found there was always enough response from the engine at any point to give me the required amount of power,so I was very pleased with the result. I had a quick go on my mates bike and that was so much better than how it had been, I would say he is very pleased with it.So to sum it up I would say if your looking for a little more response from the engine and its been playing up,like mine was,th…

Anyone fitted one of those after market one piece fibreglass tank covers come seat for TY Monos? Curious about the quality, fit, durability etc. Any feedback appreciated. I have a Pinky with ugly stained plastic tank, hence the idea of improving the look as the tank cannot be cleaned up (so I'm told). Thanks guys.

Evening All I am I'm the process of starting a rebuild and note the cross strap/brace between the left hand side frame tubes above the pegs has broken. Looking at other TYs this seems to be a common problem and as such there is clearly a load at that point. What is the best fix - weld up as is, replace with a stronger gusset, or remove? If welded it may break again which would be annoying after powder coating so am tempted to replace with a stronger gusset. However this may send load elsewhere in the frame. Has anyone any thoughts or experience? Interestingly the brace/stop light bracket on the other side doesn't seem to suffer the same problem.

I am going to do a precationary top end rebuild on my new TY80 as there is a very sligth top end rattle. Presumably it will be pretty much the same as the one I done to my FS1E about 32 years ago! Are there any things I need to look out for? If it has been rebored will it normally be stamped on the barrel to say what size? I will be doing piston, rings, little end, gudgeon pin and circlips. Anything I have missed? How long does it need to be run in for?