Pre-65 Bikes

looking at the ht on ebay could you ride it as is, and be competitive in pre 65 trials?

So, where do I start. We built an Ariel a few years ago and I just cannot get it to run when hot without making hideous noises. My initial thoughts were that the top end was getting starved of oil, I have a frame with the oil filler under the seat and the return pipe has a hole in it before it pushes the oil up to the rocker. The hole is about 5mm diameter so the oil does not bother to carry on past it. I put an additional pipe in before it entered the return pipe, issue was the same, I then removed this and restricted the return hole by putting an inner clutch cable down the pipe along with a nipple that closed up the hole whilst oil returned, issue was the same. So I…

So, the bike is finished and we're nearly there, but I think I've got an issue with the oil feeds, I have a Morgo pump and the oil is pumping round really well, a good flow is being returned. The problem is that I see no oil getting to the rockers. I took the rocker feed pipes off which are feed from the frame just beneath the down pipe (I think I have a Jackson frame, you fill it from the side not the top tube). I put some thin wire down this hole and could see through the hole which returns the oil. So I put my finger over the hole that returns the oil, turned it over by hand, and oil shot out of the hole that feeds the rockers. So any ideas what's gone wrong, shoul…

I'm trying to tidy up the oil unions going into the inner timing cover on an HT5 replica. Can someone please let me know the size and thread used for the unions that go into the timing cover? The original part numbers for the unions are 5890-35 (taken from the Draganfly web site) Thanks

the mag on my 350 is playing up when hot,not wishing to throw good money after bad i am toying with buying a new electronic mag from BTH. is any one useing one of these, if so are they worth the

Hi all, I did the Sam Cooper road trial yesterday and towards the end of the trial the engine was sounding terrible, but after letting it cool down for a while it got better and then the noise would return as soon as it warmed up. From cold the engine runs fantastic, no noises at all, it only makes the noise when it's hot. I think it must be related to heat and wondered if there any specific things to look out for. To be honest I had a similar issue with an alloy barrel on a BSA where the liner would move when the engine got hot. I had to get a space made so the head pressed against the line preventing it from banging into the head. The top hat stopped the lin…

Firstly a big big thank you to a rider of an Arial today. If not for him i would probably still be on my back at Edensfield, what a total 5h1thole that place is, today. Brings home the old adage "Never go practising alone". Freak accident really came over a blind crest between sections, down a bank, hit a log, went over bars and somehow managed to get the bar end. throttle AND brake lever down the inside of my boot. Trapped under the bike i couldnt move. Luckily the guy on the Arial who was following me, bad move i'm usually lost, managed to stop on the crest. Thought i was going to break me leg but finally managed to move the bike enough to get under the boot and loose…

Just a thought but how alike or far apart might be the Ariel replicas similar to the one that recently won in Scotland from GOV 132 which I presume was state of the art at the time when Sammy Miller rode it.

The questions keep coming in :-) If when the engine is running the valve lifter lever on the rocker box moves, does it mean that I need to clearance between the lifter and valve? Or to put it another way, when the engine is running should the valve lifter lever on the rocker box move? Thanks

Hi all, I am just about to finish my Armac cub and i was wondering how much they are worth in relation to what i have spent. The bike has the best of everything. Full Armac frame, Alan Whitton engine rebuild to 230cc with all his breathing, clutch, drive sproket etc modifications carried out. 35mm ossa mar forks in T21 heavyweight sliders. Armac tank, yolks, exhaust, airbox. Dellorto 22mm carb, new cables, mudgaurds etc, everything brand new. So, what do you think it would fetch if it was sold? I cant say i've ever seen one for sale!

I have seen some pictures of a few trick ARMAC frames for Cub's and was wondering if anybody does something similar for BSA's. I have always had BSA's and have plenty of bits to build a C15G or a B40 up. I am sorting out a bike at the minute to have a go again as not rode a trial for over 11 years!!! Would like to have a fairly standard one and a really trick one to cover all options. Anyone know what forks Thorpey has on his ? Certainly look pretty modern.

Does anybody know anything about this new frame/subframe/swingarm for a Triumph Tiger Cub from a company called Armac Design - I saw it in a classic motorcycle mag a few months ago. It seems to be excluded from some events (classic SSDT?) because of this, but I wondered where else it might be excluded?? Thanks.

Anyone got an up to date e-mail address for Duncan Mcdonald? This one armacdesign AT hotmail.com does not seem to exist any more.

lots of old bits for you pre 65 nutters http://www.i-bidder.com/forms/SaleDetails....content=catlink

Hi all I'm in the process of building new wheels and my dilema is axle diameter. The hubs dictate that I can use either a 20mm dia axle or 15mm dia axle, (bearing size 6004 2rs or 6302 2rs). I'm quite happy to run with a 15 mm axle in the front, but not so sure about the back. When the axle is turned up for the rear I won't have a spacer, just increase the dia to approx 23mm x 100mm between the bearings (ie a stepped axle) I would rather go for a 15mm axle, and am looking for re-assurance that it would be strong enough. Its for a B40 and I am approx 13 stone in weight. (I will have conventional spacer between the bearing in the front.) Ross

All, i am hoping to fit a B25 Barrel onto C15 crankcases, also using the C15 head. many have already done this mod, my question is how do you get the oil back to the crankcases as the drain holes in the B25 barrel only one is the correct side as the C15 has them diagonal. can you drill down the side of the barrel and put a pipe in?? could you mill a track around the gasket face on top of the barrel from the where the drain hole from the c15 head meets the barrel? i have only seen one one and he had a very late B25 barrel and there was enough 'meat' to drill down the side? my B25 barrels are earlier and don't have enough room, hence my question about pipe?? as alwa…

Can anyone tell me where this washer should be? Took the sump filter off today and it was lying in the bottom, it's about 22mm diameter

I wonder if someone could tell me how to get the little clutch operating pinion off the clutch lever, I know its threaded onto it and I've had a go at trying to get it off but it wont shift. Is there a trick to it or maybe its a left hand thread? The clutch lever is the one that sits behind the kickstart sort of vertical in the right hand case (timing side) its a very sloppy fit as there seems to be no bushing in the worn alloy case , any suggestions on how to correct the sloppy fit? any advice greatfully accepted.

As I inch closer to being half way done assembling my motor, I need to decide what to use for a gearbox sprocket. I have a 18T crank sprocket and a 52 on my rear wheel. Standard SS ratios in a dedicated trials machine. My local suppler (bsaunitsingles) has suggested a 13T as a good starting point but there is also a 12T available. I ran out of "meaningful" progress while waiting for parts to I took the case covers to the polishing wheel. Ill never do that again but it sure looks nice.

Just sortin the old fellas b40 out & as the brakes are usally on the crap side does any one know of some good stoppers that fit? :santawink: