SWM

Howdy again Gang! When I took my TL320 down to Moab last month, with a fresh change of the fork oil to ATF, I found that the seals leaked a great deal. I decided to change them, so I ordered a set of seals for 35mm Betor forks. They came as a set of four separate seals, apparently meant to be stacked on top of each other for a double-lip seal. Last night, I dismantled the forks and removed the old seals. The old seals were not stacked, they were a single seal on each side, each with a double lip inside. One fork leg was embossed with the words: "Honda F seal, 9125-273-000". So it would seem that someone had the fork legs machined to accept a Honda seal, though I suspect…

Hello I need buy a news shocks for my tl? which manufacturer recommendation : njb, magicals, hagon?

Guys thanks for your help, I'm now the owner of a 1980 TL320.,,.brought her back at 1pm....stripped down by 5pm ready for powder coating and refit. No nasty surprises but a few things I've noticed: Gearing seems high....running 14/40 at the moment.....thinking of going to a 13 front. Clutch is light, positive and I can get nuetral too...easier than my my Beta REV3! But there is no undertank lever lightener system....cable goes from lever direct to clutch cover. Shes a little crackly on the noise front....is it possible to repack the silencer....which weighs more than boat anchor? Trans oil.....10/40? Any advise welcome

Picked this TL 320 up on saturday off a guy called Charlie Harris,very nice chap to talk to,going to remove the lights, switches and wiring loom,put a little paint here and there, free the clutch off or new clutch plates. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk254/Davyb63/DSCN0110.jpg http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk254/Davyb63/DSCN0109.jpg

Anyone know if there are any difference to the steering angles between a Black 1981 SWM frame, (with full mudguard loop) and a 1983 Blue frame without rear frame loop ?

Don't have any history for this engine, but it starts and runs well. Really nice for approx the first 1/3, but isn't keen to keep going. I don't think it's carburation as it runs so well at the bottom. I'm going to check the timing first. It's had a new plug with no difference. How about disc valve timing ? The engine originally was from an Aprilia, but is running with a SWM air box and exhaust. Don't thing either are part of the problem ? Also don't think/hope that's it electrical, unless anyone has had similar experiences. Thanks in advance. Ross

Can anyone post some pictures on how the seat is mounted on the 1980 TL320?

Just went out for a ride with my TL.NW 320 yesterday and the bike "performend" very well. But there is one problem I believe I have, the rear shocks - still the Girlings - are let's call it very soft, they have a little bit too much sag I believe, (and my weight is 70kg). They a superb for small bumps and absorbing well but I have noticrd that they lack progression. So I have now two possibilities: #1 Repair the Girlings, any Idea who can do this? #1.1 Repair the Girlings which will take weeks or months and additional get a replacement #2 Replace the shocks. There are two brands that came up to my mind here: the Falcons and the NJB Trixshocks, but which one to ch…

Does anyone know whether the Rotax motor has a 'stop' on the kickstart mechanism? Mine is the Jumbo but I believe it's the same as the 240/280 motors. Problem has occured in that the kickstart travel/rotation is long and on full swing the knuckle of the kickestart has gone round and punched a hole in the casing. I can't see how to stop this happening. It's never happened before but it's happening now. I've looked at the parts diagram and had the kickstart ratchet and spring out but can't see that there is anything to stop the kickstart shaft continuing to rotate until the kickstart hits the casing. There is no way I can kick it gently enough to shorten the swing to prev…

Hi all, after a few years of talking about it I finally bought a twin shock, and here it is what a beauty!! http://www.normandym...ry/IMG_6444.JPG OK so its going to need a lot of work to get it right, however under all the grime frame and side panels are not that bad. The engine is going to need a complete rebuild and a barrel as that's missing, but for what I paid for it I expected that. My question to you guys that know, was there ever a SWM in this colour scheme as it seems to be original rather than repainted or powder coated? The panel on the seems to suggest its a 320 from 1980 http://www.normandym...ry/IMG_6445.JPG I wanted to know if I should keep this col…

I keep hearing of this test and finally found it today. What no one ever seems to mention (or I've missed) is how old this test is, published in 1978, although that may not be any cause for concern, but what is, is the use of Castor Bean oil, not mineral based oil. I used to be an automotive test engineer and then went onto pure combustion research and a few of things from this report really bug me, all from the comfort of my armchair & not really knowing jack s**t about 2 stroke R&D. I was compression and spark ignition 4 cycle only ..or dirty diesels and gasolene's, sorry petrols outside of work. OK, any test such as this, and this is a real biggie s…

Hi, I post a bike/engine that I started a long time ago to collect your comments about; regards.

This subject was raised some some three years ago and to be fair opinions shared. Given the time frame I wondered if these we still valid. I have a red and white Guanaco with the mazocchi set up. Whilst its alright, they do tend to be very soft even after changing and playing with the springs. I have a nice pair of late betors including yokes / tete de fourche and my French guru is trying to convince me to go down this route. Some mentioned on the previous thread that all the works bikes had married the Mazocchi yokes to betor forks and I have since seen this recently on a very nicely prepared Belgium bike of Michel Gossiaux, again his name was mentioned in the previou…

Hi all ! Anyone got any experience about having Magnesium casings professionly welded (with MG welding Rod) ? I intend sending three clutch casings to be welded they say its no problem but can only be done from experts that have the right material and knowledge.

Was watching the clip TooFastTim posted on the Ventoux Trial Classic 2011,(very good it was to) all the SWM's appeared to have Betor forks, are they so much better ?

I competed in my first trial last weekend on the TL320. I managed to make a grand mess of the event, and found that I killed the engine in nearly every section. Never had that problem in all my practice on level ground, but there was little level ground at the trial! A couple of the old timers suggested that I lower the gearing on the bike. Several people independently commented that the bike seemed to be geared rather high. Since my existing rear sprocket is looking well-worn, I suppose this is a good time to consider a gearing change. So what gear combinations work for those of you competing on TL320s?

Can anyone help with a replacement front brake arm (Marzocchi front end) as mine has 'rounded off' the square edges and now has so much slack I can't operate the front brake without resulting to a 'workaround''? I may try and weld up and refinnish the arm but a replacement would be a quicker and more elegant solution. I wonder if Fantic arms fit, those fitted with Grimeca hubs? many thanks

Hello people, can anyone help me locate a kick start lever to suit the knuckle that uses a circlip, it's for a Jumbo but I think any kick start lever for a TL trials bike will fit. Cheers. PS: I've attempted to ask in "classifieds" but I don't get any options to let me write a wanted post, in fact I get no options at all. Any clues as to what is happening there ?

I have just replaced the clutch plates in my 1982 SWM 320 with some new surflex plates. I am using 6 friction plates and 7 metal plates and have put all six medium springs back in the clutch basket. I am using ATF in the gearbox. However I need some help, the clutch is slipping like mad, even in 2nd gear and I can't figure out why. I must admit I was confused as to how many plates I should use as I have numerous clutch diagrams showing anywhere between 5 and 7 friction plates. Engaging the gears is really smooth with the new plates installed so what have I done wrong? Any help is appreciated. Cheers Chris

Just been looking at Martin's motoswm site and I see the new system is now available for Rotax trials motors. http://www.motoswm.co.uk/product-category/ignition/