OSSA

Hello All, Has anyone dealt with Ossacels recently and how did it go? I ordered parts for my MAR months ago and have not seen them yet, I've sent numerous emails both in english and spainish and had no reply. I haven't paid for anything yet as I chose COD, he didn't offer PayPal as an option when I ordered online. It's frustrating the hell out of me that I can't get parts I need out of him and that my emails go unanswered.

It's looking a bit ratty and I want to do a couple of things to the bike to make it more suitable to me.the frame is going to get a black powdercoat,the triples are getting black anodizing and i'll change the airbox cover for the new style vented one.I'm going to try and see if I can get a 2015 sticker set for it if it will fit the 2011 plastics.Might have to get a newer seat base and bendy rear fender.While the engine is out,another base gasket is going in to make it easier to kick thru.I doubt it will effect low end power,but I might lose top end.Never use all of it anyway.

hello i have a oil leak on my ossa TR77 its comming from the crank center gasket near the sump plug its only a slow leak is there any way i can stop it with out splitting the engine? cheers chris.

I went for a first ride on my restored Ossa MAR today and experienced a few issues I have put down to carb. The AMAl is the original from 1973 so I figure it has probably seen better days. All I know is that despite new jets and refurb kit the bike has no zip making climbing banks almost impossible. I'm thinking therefore of changing carbs to a Mikuni. I appreciate that this one has been done to death but...The general concensus seems to be a 150 main and 35 pilot on a VM26 Mikuni but this is only part of the story. The Needle and Jet needle are very important also. The standard VM26 comes with a O-0 needle Jet and a 4J13 Jet needle. For those who have fitted a VM26…

Seen usa sights who say rod will snap at any time, and should be upgraded immediatly,any comments?

Hi all Apparently, there was a thread on here for about a day which had a link to details about forthcoming changes to the 2801 for 2013 but I can't find it. Anyone know where it is? Thanks Will-in-the-mud

Hi, Im running an Ossa 2011 with an update clutch (internals) to 2012 specs. First of all I love the bike - it is amazing in every aspect except for the clutch engagement in my opinion. To me it seems the clutch is engaging at different positions ( a millimeter or two in or out) this occurs the first time used after heavy use ie revving and shooting off. One could say it bites slightly better after a hard use. Bike has less than 20 hrs on it - will it get better or should I consider bleeding the system, changing the clutch lever oil reservoir to a bigger size? Or just plainly used it hard to see if it beds in better? Thanks in advance, K.

I have run 90/1 in my 2011 tr280i and switched to 130/1 with this season being my second.No problems whatsoever.Loaded my gear up this past sunday and didn't take my daughters TY175 because she was away.After a good warmup and a couple of loops i stopped to top up.Ooops....i topped up with the TY's 32/1 premix But ya know what? It ran perfect.Not really any smoking that i could notice.Starting was the usual 1st kick.But it did smell funny because of the Ipone strawberry scent.

I ran across an old OSSA here in the USA and I need help identifying exactly what it is...I just can't figure it out. The owner says it's been sitting in storage for 30 years and was told the bike is all original. The handle bars mount to the top fork yoke with U-bolts. The Frame number is B251002 and the engine number is M250154. I'm leaning towards it being a 1967 Pioneer based on the engine number and the large front hub, the rest of the bike looks like a Pluma/Plonker. Any help is appreciated. I'll try to post pictures...I don't have any right now.

I have a customer 2012 Explorer (with fixer nut). It was stuck in 6th, I popped out the gearbox and found a broken gear. 6th drive gear tooth/engagement dog if I have it right. It appears on 6th the teeth just extend out to make an engagement dog. Not very thick there so seems a weak spot? But I always tell people to shift this slowly and gently and they will last great. Start ‘jamming gears’ like an enduro bike and you could probably break it in an hour. I had almost 400 hours on my Explorer (just sold it)- only gearbox issue was a broken return spring. Edit: Dang, I forgot the original reason for post. Who has gearbox parts? I have a call into Lewi…

Recently, there was a need to remove the cylinder from one of my friends 72 MAR 250s. With the head removed, we expected the cylinder to slide easily off the studs. P, time and water had corroded the studs and cylinder along the cylinders entire height. We soaked the 4 studs for a couple weeks hoping to have the cylinder release. When the cylinder refused to release and be removed, next I attempted to unwind the long studs. While i could see several of the studs twiting as I tried to remove them, each would untwist back to where they originally were positioned. Seeing this I feared the studs would break causing greater problems. Heat was even applied…

Need help with bleeding the rear brakes, i’ve been pumping and bleeding at the caliper for 30 minutes now, still no peddle, refilled the reservoir 3 times...no progress. I even tried to raising the front of the bike, pushing fluid, pulling fluid, still no progress. thanks Phil.

Well, I sold my 2014 Explorer last week. I really have liked that bike- LOTS. It has been pretty darn good, with the linkage the weak spot for how I was using it. If they had a more robust linkage with real bearings, I think it would be a LOT better. No engine problems at all, just a broken return spring for the gearbox. I had no plans to sell, I even bought a Beta 4T to ride so I would not put so many hours on it. But most of my buddies ride enduro bikes, so after getting a Beta Xtrainer, I found I just wasn’t riding the Beta 4T trials much. So I sold it. Someone was interested in the OSSA- and I decided to give electric a go. Electric-Motion has a mo…

Hi, does anyone know the metric screw thread for the lock nut that clamps the top yoke to the lower yoke column? I think it is metric fine or extra fine but am struggling to find a half nut for it, it definitely is not coarse. Many thanks SB

Hi just picked up a 1978 tr77 starts lovely and idles nicely BUT after a few minutes it will pick up the revs to almost maximum without any input without sounding dense where do i start?

Went to start my 350 TR 77 after a carburettor rebuild And because of a recent injury I can't kickstart it so I used a roller starter I noticed that the bike was backfiring on start up and wouldn't run .It was then I noticed that some of the back fire was between the head and the barrel so it definitely looks likely the head gasket is fubar.. sorry for the long post but how easy is it to fit a New gasket And is there anything that I should be aware of?? Many thanks Phil B

Hi there, can anyone tell me how and where to fit a kill switch on a 1968 Ossa Stiletto. The only wiring on the bike is from the magneto to the coil/regulator and from there to the plug cap.

Anyone seen any after market 2012 280i rear hubs ??? snapped a disk lug off today so need a new one and would prefer to get a bling coloured one rather than a std Ossa one. If anyone has any idea please post up. Cheers in advance.

Hi just seeing if anyone can help I have recently got an ossa that is in bits and I am not 100% sure that the model is what I think it is. I have matching frame and engine numbers but when I have looked at a full list of ossa numbers they don't seem to be on there. I am thinking its a verde frame number starts with B-70.

I have a 72 OSSA MAR. It has run but right now it doesn't want to start at all. I have gas and spark so I plan to take it to a friend that has a power starter to get it going. Unfortunatley, my clutch is sticking at the same time. I have asked on this board about both of these issues but since they are occurring together, it seems like a whole different situation is happening. My question is, how can I start my OSSA on a power starter if the clutch is sticking or is there a way to get the clutch freed without the motor running. If the bike is in neutral, the clutch is not keeping the motor from freely going round when I crank the kickstart lever so is the clutch act…