Suzuki/Beamish

After splitting the case to replace the crank seals, I have an extra washer! It's 17 X 33 X 1.5 mm. With a 17mm through hole, I assume it's off the transmission. In reference to fig 8 (Transmission) of the parts manual. The only washers on the parts list are Item 33 a thinner (1mm) washer and item 34 a conical washer are both present. I did not go past the bearing so missing item 16 is ruled out. I can see wear marks on the washer that would correspond to the small diameter portion of the conical washer. When things are installed per the parts manual illustration, there is no slop when installing the cir-clip on the end, and installation of this clip is not…

Hi All, I several years ago I recondition my 1975 RL250 Exacta. I didn't get into the engine as it had always started 1st or 2nd kick and seemed to run just fine. Well it is getting noticeably tired and I believe my next project after I get my son's 1977 Yamaha TY250 done will be taking a closer look at the engine. Right now it still starts fine until it gets warmed up and then it not only starts hard but there is no low end whatso ever. I am thinking I definitely need at least to do a top end, bore, new piston and rings and crank seals. That's what I did on the TY without any problems, I figure that will be the least I have to do. I am the original and sole owner, and …

A friend has offered to show me his RL325 that's been sat some time. It was working when parked. Now apparently the gears won't select. He says it kicks over fine, but is stuck in neutral. Could it be anything more sinister than just sticky gummed up gears from years of sitting? Any other things to consider when looking at it? I see the chap from the owners club is a member on here.

Just wondering as i never actually seem to see any Suzuki's especially Beamish Suzuki's being used. Theyre pretty but i assume they are plentiful as you see them on flea bay regularly so why dont you see them in trials? Is it simply because they arent much cop?

I’ve recently picked up another project, a 1975 Suzuki RL250 Exacta, which seems to run well, but is in need of some cosmetic work, and some routine maintenance done, such as brake cables and chain/sprockets replaced. The intention is to give it to my Father once it’s sorted, so we can ride together, but want to make sure it’s sound before he gets on. One question that seems to be eluding me is an aftermarket sprocket. I’ve seen the Talon kits available on eBay, and it seems that RL250.com and Beamish Owners Club offers kits as well, but was wondering what other Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket? …

Hi all, I need some help please with assembling the forks on my Beamish. It's been quite some time since I took them apart so my memory for the position of the parts is faint, The drawing of the forks on the Beamish owners club differs from mine so i'm uncertain as to the position of all the parts. I'm hoping someone on this forum has pictures of the correct assembly for the parts in the picture I have attached. my main concern is for the position of the small springs on the damper rod. Thanks in advance. Phil.

Hello, Has anybody replaced the leading axle forks on a Beamish/RL with straight forks ? The reason I ask is because the stantions on mine need re-chroming , £200 ish seems to be the going rate , but I have a spare pair of better Ossa MAR & Yamaha trials forks , and several wheels. so would probably only need to buy some suitable yokes that go with the forks that I am thinking of using, to get somewhere near the right geometry. I think I have seen this change from straight to leading axle on some other bikes ( and vice versa) but can't remember seeing a Beamish that has been changed. I have access to a lathe & mill, so some small mods won…

Hey guys, My dad purchased a Suzuki B120 trials off ebay that was listed as being Gaunt, but he doesnt think it actually was. Is there anyway of telling? thanks Jack

I saw this junk bike in a local ad (as mentioned in another post) and thought it would be fun to have something besides my OSSA to ride twin shock. It was $120. 119179364_3280092998770353_632717131603431554_n by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I have a 1984 KX 250 rear wheel, KDX drum front wheel, TLR triple clamps Sherpa Betor forks and a well equipped welding shop. I am mostly modifying parts and cutting a few corners to get it done in case things need changing Ill post up a bunch of photos tonight and more in the next couple days and I hope you find it interesting. Motor looks nice. I know it's rusted solid so I have very low expectations. DS185 by…

I have a1975 RL250 I reconditioned several years ago. In the process I needed a new petcock due to leaking past the on/off position, plus leaking around the petcock on/off lever. I originally found a supposed OEM petcock from Partzilla I believe it was, and it worked but the location where the gas line connected sat lower than the original and since it exited out the back the line hits the throttle cable on the carb so a pretty extreme angle on the gas line is needed, so much so that it partially kinks the gas line. Since it is threaded, and the body of the petcock can be rotated, I had just turned it to miss the throttle cable. The trouble with that is it puts the lev…

Hi all. New to this site and a bit of a techno dummy so lets hope I can use the site okay. So I have an issue with my Suzuki Beamish RL. I have been advised the Beamish was made in two models. The RL250 and the RL325. Problem being my Suzuki Beamish has a period decal either side that looks original, that states it's an RL350. So, does anyone know if the beamish was made as a 350 please.

Hi All, Can anyone please help me with information regarding the re-assembly of a Beamish Suzuki (black engine) gearbox? If someone has some good pictures of the re-assembly order of the components that are known to be correct that will be a great help. It’s been some years since I took it apart so I have no memory of any details regarding re-assembly. I had taken many pictures but I’m still not confident that the position of some components is correct. I have noticed the 4th gear thrust washer is in a different location to the drawing in the work shop manual, mine was directly behind the 4th gear drive circlip. Also I can’t tell the correct orientation o…

Just found these Oldies..! South Coast - Brighton and..? Photo credit @ Derek Jones John Reynolds Cheers Chaps, Motosinge83.

I have been unable to find the torque numbers for the cylinder base nuts or the mag flywheel nut in any of the manuals I have. Anyone have these at hand? thanks in advance

IM CURRENTLY REFRESHING THE ENGINE ON A MATES 325 BEAMISH. IVE SPOKEN WITH THE VERY HELPFUL STEVE PITT AT THE BEAMISH OWNERS CLUB ABOUT SOURCING AN 81.00mm PISTON. I KNOW THERE ARENT ANY AT THE MOMENT, BUT THE OLD ADAGE SAYS IF YOU DONT ASK…………!! HAS ANYONE GOT AN 81.00mm PISTON SAT IN A WORKSHOP DRAWER THEY BOUGHT YEARS AGO , JUST IN CASE AND NO LONGER NEED, OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE I COULD MAKE A SET OF 80.50mm PISTON RINGS WORK ON THE EXISTING PISTON SHORT TERM. IM ALSO A BIT CONFUSED AT THE OPTION OF THREE DIFFERENT BASE GASKETS THICKNESSES AVAILABLE FOR THAT MODEL. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT THICKNESS I NEED. THE ENGINE IM WORKING ON HAS THE 250 HEAD ON IT WITH THE AP…

Hope It's not a bother, but could someone post a photo of their chain oiler adjustment screw? I've put in about 4 hours trying to make one that will seal up when tightened down. Does it have a tapered seat, or like a carb air screw? I've flushed it out and installed a screw just to keep water and dirt out for now. I know there are suppose to be no such thing as a stupid question so if I become a distraction let me know. Thanks in advance.

I know it's been asked before but not seen an answer. I recently put an OKO carb on my Cota with great results and was thinking about doing the same on my Beamish. Has anyone done this and what were the results ? cheers

Hi all, well I took the plunge and now own a 1974 RL250. So I have a few questions that the forum may be able to help with. First I have ridden and raced almost everything since 1967. I can wrench and I'm not afraid to fab up goddies when needed. So questions 1. I have an absolutely shot petcock so unless it's an only option I don't want to rebuild it. Pingle makes a good one, but not sure they make one that fits, so sources would be great. 2. The inside of the tank is lined (well sort of lined if you mean some really nasty crap peeling off everywhere) so what are my options. Tank? How to remove the old liner mess, or send off for repairs? I'm just getting into …

Whilst at the 2-day Dartmoor Trial this weekend (great trial, thanks to Bill Hartnell and his helpers!) I swapped one of my Fantic 200s for clean looking 325 Beamish. Maybe a bad move from a competitivness (?) standpoint but nostagia said I needed a Beamish as I trashed the rearframe loop of my mates 250 back in 1979 using a hard place and 3rd gear! This one has no rear loop to trash! It has the black engine and I think ist an 81 model. Although it looks clean it would not pull the skin from a rice pudding. The owner said it woz once owned by Nigel Birkett (are you reading this?) and had been converted to 370 using an AJS piston?? I think a ty 80 has more power! It wil…

Hi all, I have a silver engine RL250 thats using a 72 mm Wiesco piston and now needs a new little end bearing. I became all the Wiesco numbers for Piston Rings piston pin and clips from the last owner but not for the small end baering. Wiesco don´t seem to have any idea what bearing is needed so I thought I´d give it a try here :-)