dadof2

This is very useful for quite a number of riders I know, many being put off doing road trials or the odd national because their insurance was invalid during the event. There are unfortunately still quite a lot of riders committing offences quite probably unintentionally on BOATs and UCRs

I like Domino grips and my last few purchases have been these, medium I think. I also like Scott MX grips. I have had good service from both but I do not usually bother or know what grade they are.

I like that one, plenty of spectators and I've cleaned it. Better not say where it is though! I think its a collapsed lead smelting flue and unfortunately riding bikes on it is deemed to degrade an archaeological site, and disturbing the remains of lead workings releases all sort of nasties. Dabster - a WTC without parking??????

Check the outer race of the bearing has not come loose in the frame. If the stem is slack in the top yoke wrap some shim metal round it. You can get shim metal in various sicknesses from engineers merchants.

For people who like this sort of thing (an indoor trial outside) Nord View was probably about as good as you can get. Nord view has easy access to the M6 and was only a quick drive for me, but like many others I gave up going because it was same thing year after year and the prices for a family day out were off putting. There are many areas with plenty of parking and unlimited natural sections, all it needs is to move the date back until after haymaking and approach farmers with the offer of a few £grand.

Have you slackened the other engine bolts? and sump guard? If the engine is running / bike rideable put plenty of penetrating oil at the bolt ends and where swing arm meets crankcases and then ride the bike about a bit. If it still won't move get the bike to a garage with a hydraulic press. Properly support the frame round the bolt head with a bit of pipe whilst pressing it. If it feels too much pressure is being applied and its still not shifting try warming the back of the crank case with a gas torch. If the bolt rotates but wont push out it is the inner parts of the swinging arm bearings that are stuck / rusted to it. If necessary drill the bolt out, its a lot cheaper to replace the bolt than replace a damaged swing arm or crankcases.

Find a nut that just drops over the bleed nipple and then get someone to weld the nut to the nipple, it usually then unscrews easily. The extreme heat of the weld undoes the seize. Put PTFE tape on the new nipple and only tighten it lightly to prevent seizure in future.

Unless the clearance is very small I prefer JB weld to loctite. A heavy run of weld around the edge of the bearing housing (with bearing out) tightens up the housing.

I have known the item that causes this type of damage to be bits of piston ring, rivets from the main bearing cages or pieces of big end cage. Edit - the barrel looks as if it will be OK, just needs a good clean up and check there is no more bits about to break off.

Recently I came across an intermittent problem on a car (EFI). Mostly it would start first turn of the key and run fine. Sometimes however it had to be cranked quite a bit with a lot of throttle. Sometimes it juddered and stuttered for several seconds after starting. OBD showed no faults and voltages at all components that could be the cause were correct. Eventually it was found to be a plug in two pin connector inside the chassis (box section part of the monocoque). Water had got into the chassis and caused corrosion on one of the pins. This corrosion was acting as a resistor reducing the flow of current to the fuel pump (and hence low fuel pressure) when voltage was low during idling or starting. Replaced the connector - perfect starting and idling. Bearing in mind that the Honda ACG / capacitor system produces less than ideal electrical characteristics at low / idle RPM it may be worth checking the electrical connectors, specially those to the fuel pump. look for dirt, looseness, corrosion or fraying wires where they are crimped.

As usual Nigel your post is a wealth of really useful technical information According to many adverts a 2016 Repsol 260 is £6,999, which by the time you have picked it up or road registered it makes £7k+. Whether or not I have been to Australia or not is irrelevant, for many years I was involved in the design and manufacture of equipment to work in countries such as Northern Canada, Azerbaijan, India, Indonesia etc where ambient temperatures well above (and below) 38 Celsius are common. The 260s cooling system is probably focused on typical WTC use where even high ambient temps won't cause problems. Honda should offer an optional larger radiator or oil cooler.

Oh dear me, £7k on a bike and its radiator is barely up to the job Coolant - a coolant has to have 2 key properties, firstly it has to have high specific heat capacity and secondly it has to "wet" the internal surfaces of the water passages. Water has a specific heat capacity of 4,200 J/kg/degreeK Undiluted antifreeze only has a specific heat capacity of about 2,760 J/kg/degK so it is nowhere near as good as water. Probably the best mix is about 25% OAT antifreeze which has the wetting additives and a heat capacity of about 3,990 J/kg/DegK.

Before 249 made his post was going to suggest a strained or cracked spring. Never been inside a Jgas but faulty gear change centring springs cause these symptoms on other makes.

Unfortunately you won't get much change out of £250 to sort the piston and barrel properly and the rest of the engine may be well worn as well. A few chips on the ports do not matter that much. Clean them up and chamfer the ports (small 1/2 round diamond file or rifler needed). A new piston would be £100 +. You may be able to find a second hand piston and rings that someone else regards as worn out and will let you have for very little. If you can find such a piston put plenty of oil in your premix. A bit of a codge but it could get you going again for very little £

Assuming you have a spark at the plug its likely to be water getting into the carb, either from the airfilter / airbox or tank. Just a small amount of water in either can repeatedly get drawn into the carb and block the starting and slow running jets or passages.

Looks like they have never seen a Commer or Deltic engine? The sport of trials needs titanium about as much as it needs to be regulated by Natural England! That trellis frame would still be a very attractive and functional if it were made from CDS or chrome moly.

The Commercial Court of Girona awarded 9.66 million euros for the signing of bicycles and electric bikes Torrot productive unit Gas Gas, brand trial bike which has been in liquidation since early July. Torrot, based in Mataro, is committed to investing in the Salt factory to 13 million euros over the next three years to revive the plant. The signing of electric vehicles was the one with the highest bid. It was followed by the investment fund WRI proposed 7.02 million euros, and that of another manufacturer in the industry, Sherco, which offered 2.66 million. Of the total sum, 6.38 million euros will be used to cover part of the debt of Gas Gas. The company owes more than 40 million euros at Banco Sabadell, BBVA, CaixaBank, ING and the Catalan Institute of Finance (ICF). Commitments that led him to stop production in January, when he entered preconcurso creditors. The staff of 93 workers is no activity since then. First, with paid and then leave, claiming unemployment benefit. Among the offers submitted, that of Torrot was preferred by workers. The chairman of the company, Pere Brangolí, said Monday Europa Press that employees are "satisfied" with the judge's decision. The viability plan Torrot surrogacy involves 55 workers and reinstate the commitment of the rest in the next 18 months up to a staff of 82 people. Brangolí added that "will have to continue negotiating with the new owners" conditions.

I was merely illustrating that two very different views can be taken of the same event, my first post looked at the potentially positive, the second at the potentially negative. As I and others have said, the Scott could be a victim of its own success.

I would check woodruff key first. If resistance check not conclusive try setting your meter to ac volts and kicking the engine over - plug out so it spins well. Look for a peak of maybe up to 4 V from the trigger and 20 to 30 from the source coil. The trigger is the one with the higher ohms values on splatshop guide.

Do you really need it explaining ????????

What did you find?

Do a search on NGK resistor spark plug technical information. Many use non resistor plugs with no ill effects but why take the risk

Best to take the swing arm out as well to grease its bearings. You will need to disconnect the rear brake pedal from the master cylinder. The master cylinder, reservoir and calliper all come out with the swinging arm. Try and work some greave into the spherical shock bearings as well, A MS02 driveshaft joint grease is best for the spherical bearings but not for the needle roller bearings.

I would go along with 0.7, any larger and you are more likely to get a spark on the outside of the HT lead or HT coil when its wet. Electric takes path of least resistance

To fully comply with UK (and presumably EU) law not only does the plate & letters have to be of a certain size it has to be made by an approved supplier and their identification has to be on the plate. Having said the above I don't know of anyone having been prosecuted for having an illegal plate and generally the police ignore a plate about 3/4 full size with clear letters. I know of a number who have had it painted on the newer narrow upward facing rear mudguards who have been warned to put it right or they will be done if seen again. Despite being stopped a time or two I never had any trouble with the number plate painted on Bultaco and TY sized mudguards. On my newer bikes I have yellow polythene (from shell oil drums) hung from rear mudguard on a rubber flap. About 3/4 full size and no problems. Letters are by permanent marker.